Author Topic: Frigidaire Professional Side by Side plhs267zdb2 - No power to evaporator fan  (Read 1064 times)

Offline mattreed02

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so... at a complete loss

My fridge stopped cooling properly. Inspected and evaporator fan was not moving. Spun unit and it spun freely. I them proceded to remove evaporator fan and test directly on 120v ac. No juice, no power to fan. I ordered a replacement fan installed and no difference. Tested replacement fan and all was working.

Also ordered new defrost thermostat and installed in the process of replacing the fan as a what if possibility. No change.
No power coming to Evaporator fan on my multimeter testing from outlet plug in freezer compartment. Was only getting .3 volts.
Ordered New ADC and wiring. Installed, tested and no change. Still at .3V .....
Bypassed defrost thermostat by disconneting and connected two leads togather. No change.

Defrost working, condensor working, ADC working, Fan working (at least not installed) Frost builds up on Radiator and them cycles into defrost as designed..
At a loss. My only guess is that I had a power surge and it took out my controller board? but I have not a clue where that might be in my fridge model. plhs267zdb2

Offline tgoods

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If it's not the fan motor or the ADC, it has to be the wiring.  Check the red/white wire to ground.  If you have 120vac,you've lost the neutral.  You can check the ADC while it's running.  Check for voltage between J1 and J11.  If you get 120vac, the ADC is bad.

Offline mattreed02

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So it's a brand new adc and I did as you recommended and was able to get 120v from j1 to j11...
I am no rocket scientist but your saying I bought a faulty adc...

Offline tgoods

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It sure looks like it.  Here's the tech sheet.

Offline mattreed02

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I completely believe you and thank you for all your help but please answer me one question and help me become more sain on the matters.
The j1/j11 lines both look to be 120v per the schematic. How if I am receiving 120 with both lines is my adc bad? Should they be closed and only show open at a certain time? I guess I am lost here ? Surprised I made it this far to be honest ..

Offline afterblast

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j1 on the adaptive defrost is power in, so you should have 120 v here or it wouldn't be defrosting, j11 is the power to the fan, during normal operation, this should have 120 v to run the fan... if your meter is showing you 120v then it's saying that between the two points your testing there is a 120 v difference, if the adc was operating properly your meter would read 0 since both lines should have 120.

to look at it a different way, try testing between j1 and ground, and then j11 and ground, you should get 120 between j1 and ground, and judging by your post you should get 0 between j11 and ground, this would be because the ADC is not sending power to the fan.

at this point if you want to double check before you replace the adc you could check for resistance between j11 and the connector on the fan motor, it should read a very low resistance and not read open ( the wire should be red with a white stripe) then you can confirm that you have a good neutral by reading resistance from the other wire on the motor to where it goes into the 6 pin connector on the backwall (it joins up with  the neutral for the defrost heater, and since you say the heater is working we can assume that the wiring past this point is proved good)     

lastly if your feeling game enough to try it you could always try jumping j1 to j11 with a wire... this would bypass the adc and force 120 v to the fan, if it runs, then that would also prove the rest of the wiring to be working properly..   I wouldn't recommend trying this unless your comfortable with it, and understand that if you touch bare wire while doing this you will get unpleasantly shocked... and this tells you nothing that testing the resistances won't tell you, it's just a faster way to test it...


hope this helps explain the process a bit better

 

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