Free Service - Appliance Repair Help & Troubleshooting

Author Topic: Samsung Md. # RM255LASH  (Read 1213 times)

Offline Caddy4343

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Oct 2007
  • Posts: 114
Samsung Md. # RM255LASH
« on: February 19, 2014, 07:42:46 PM »
This unit will cool the refrig side but not the freezer.  I assume that it's either the valve or the board.  Can anyone tell me how to test the valve coil or how to replace the coil?  Samsung is new to me.  Or does anyone have any other ideas concerning the cause of this?
 
Thanks 
RM255LASH

Offline donphillipe

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Feb 2016
  • Posts: 7
Re: Samsung Md. # RM255LASH
« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2016, 10:26:36 PM »
I don't have an answer but does anyone have a link to a Service Manual for the Samsung RM255LASH.   I found many "trick links" where you click on what they claim is the manual and all these serve to do is make somebody money by forcing a redirect to some bogus click-pay ads.   I then found a Samari something or other Appliance Repair site who claimed they have the manual for you, then they want you to first sign up for a $150 per year membership and they'll share one with you.   

Still not sure where this manual is to be found.   Samsung should deliver a PDF of this free since they sold all these lemons.   Someone said they found a manual on a blog, can anyone help me out?

Also I'd be interested in others experience with this refrigerator.   Most information I have seen says to do yourself a favor and get rid of it.   I spoke with Samsung support many times in the past and they always pretend that they have never heard of my problem before.   The problems started with this unit about 1 year into ownership.   It dumps about a large cup of water in the floor under the unit 1 or 2 times per week for the past several years for no apparent reason.   We just have always tossed a towel over it.   Found some new friends also had a Samsung, different model number but same water puddle.  Then I read where one lady was very upset who had hardwood floors and her Samsung was "puddling".   Can you imagine!  So Samsung refrigerator or new puppy, don't have both at the same time or you'll never know "who did it".

Now the lower left freezer quit a month ago, then the lower right crisper drawer stopped cooling, and today the upper right main refrigerator  (of the quad system) refrigerator finally gave out.   Amazing thing is the ice maker and upper left freezer was freezing hard as a rock during all this.

I have removed everything and managed to crack to pieces the plastic back because it won't come out after I removed all the screws; neither will the bottom plate after I tried to twist the bottom lock screw.   I did finally look inside the box at the rear of the main refrigerator and it is solid ice.   I have everything out and a fan on it to try to defrost it now.

I imagine the service manual is so hard to find because once word finally gets out on these units, it's going to have to be Samsung's new top seller, the service manual.

Offline donphillipe

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Feb 2016
  • Posts: 7
Re: Samsung Md. # RM255LASH
« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2016, 10:32:35 PM »
P.S. What I'd give for a real refrigerator without all this electronic control.   My mother's 1955 GE refrigerator just quite working last year.   Can you imagine, a refrigerator that ran 60 years continuously?   I swear they design a timer into some of the units to make they fail post warranty.   Who would ever know?   Apparently not the EPA when driving a VW!    Just remember KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid.   The more features, the more failures.

Offline AJ

  • Technician
    Administrator
  • Member Since: Jun 2007
  • Posts: 10455
  • Country: us
    • ApplianceJunk.com - Appliance Repair

Offline donphillipe

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Feb 2016
  • Posts: 7
Re: Samsung Md. # RM255LASH
« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2016, 11:33:47 AM »
Thanks a lot - very kind of you.   I finally totally de-iced everything behind the rear panel of the two compartments  after 3 days of a fan blowing on it with all 4 doors opened and with it unplugged of course.  The melted ice soaked 3 towels on the floor, incidentally. Unfortunately I cracked the top of the rear cover in the upper right refrigerator compartment and the Styrofoam behind it trying to pull it apart when the unit was totally iced down inside and I didn't realize it.   I am going to try some of the Liquid Nails Paneling and Foam glue on it, as wood glue doesn't seem to be water proof, at least on all the cutting boards I have tried to glue in the past.   I'll let you know how that goes.

I am going to start by ohm-ing out all the heater elements from the circuit board.   There's double naming conventions in the fast track and I'm just assuming that the following are equal terms:

Dispenser Heater = Home Bar Heater
Fill Tube Heater = Ice Pipe Heater

Other observations ..... of course it's clear from the fast track that the white dots are pried out to expose the screws.  What's not so clear is the large white dot (1/2" or so) on the bottom compartment of the main refrigerator looks like a screw.   It isn't.  You simply rotate that about 1/4 turn counterclockwise and it pops out to expose a (likely rusted) stainless steel screw.   If you think this is a regular screw and crank down on it, you'll break it to bits.   So twist it and it should easily pry out.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2016, 11:35:26 AM by donphillipe »

Offline dab147315

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Oct 2010
  • Posts: 3247
  • Country: us
Re: Samsung Md. # RM255LASH
« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2016, 12:58:24 PM »
Seems very similar.Don't know if it adds anything.  What do you think?  Just throwing this out there.  https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-i5KqMA2RZwU01MTjRpMnQyS1U/view?usp=sharing

Offline donphillipe

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Feb 2016
  • Posts: 7
Re: Samsung Md. # RM255LASH
« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2016, 04:06:55 PM »
Yes, thanks, that's got more info in it, thank you.    I think I finally see what may have been a large contributing factor to the full melt down or is it "melt up"?   The metal along the very bottom of the two bottom drawers has severe rust and pitted, so that could be the reason for the frost buildup and the whole unit turning into an ice ball I am thinking.

I got my heaters ohm-ed out and they were all reasonably close, ohm-ing from 62 ohms to 165 ohms.  Not exactly to spec but I would guess close enough.   The exceptions are the drain tube heaters spec.'d to be 2800 ohms but I read around 500 on my less that optimum (well ancient actually) meter.

I then decided to remove the connector number CN30 and start ohm-ing out the sensors and since the unit has now reached room temperature, that comes to about 5.4K ohms at my room temperature for each of these .   I read 5.4K across only 1 sensor but the other seven were zero ohms which originally freaked me out until I just realized I had removed the refrigerator coil cover and sitting to the side while the Styrofoam re-gluing takes place and with this, many of the sensors unplugged.

I'll let it set up over night and finish it out tomorrow.   It does worry me though that according to the schematic the CN30 connector supposedly has 8 sensors attached and only one of them shows anything other than zero ohms (5400, correct fortunately) across it.   All the others are zero ohms.    I know there are a lot of sensors on that panel I removed but I don't believe there were 7.   I guess I'll find out tomorrow.   There was never any indicator that anything was wrong on the panel, just the failure to cool in first one compartment and then another over weeks time. 

I hope my old ohm meter didn't feed too much current through the sensors.  It is digital and was set to auto-scale but you never know what's going to fry what these days.   Always a gamble.

Offline donphillipe

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Feb 2016
  • Posts: 7
Re: Samsung Md. # RM255LASH
« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2016, 01:35:17 PM »
Well the jury's still out about this Samsung wonder.  (Wonder why I ever bought it  ::) .)  I never gave it the scrutiny over the years I have recently but luke warm food does that to a person.   And with 3 days to thaw the giant ice ball out, that's at least two service calls and an emergency for any household that doesn't have a spare frig lying around, so I am glad it was me who was manning the controls and wastefully having a backup fridge in the garage (that doesn't mind too badly when its beverages get temporarily displaced).

Observations - there are no panel errors per following the test procedures in the gifted to me, SMs noted here.   After finding anything grossly out of speck and feeling the air stream from both the upper and lower right side cooling areas, I decided to just put the unit back together.  With all my household edibles in a "spare" fridge I allowed the unit to come up to temp without anything else inside. 

 It took it a good 3 hours to reach -4 on the freezer and 36 on the frig settings.   But things were the same for me inside the unit, the freezer was "finger sticking" cold while the frig didn't feel "beer cold".   So I put a bowl of water in the frig and used my costly and precise barbecue probe thermometric, trusted to deliver a medium rare steak every time but not very well tested on the low side of the scale.   I found the bowl of water would only reach 44 degrees (F) after 18 hours, which was about the range my finger touch was giving me.    I had some sodas and beers lying around so I tossed a 6 & 12 pack of each and I noticed that the compressor has been running now for 24 hours at least.   I did measure the water again and after about 24 hours, the temperature is down to 42F.    That's a log time for a unit to try to cool a few cans.

So something still seems wrong.   I am not familiar enough with this unit I have owned "forever" to understand how the temperature indicator works (does it work like a home thermostat, and go to "desired number" while setting and then "actual number" once you release the button?   And I don't know other than the sensor being bad why it would read 36F if it is really 44F inside.   Perhaps that means the sensor is bad or does it just mean the sensor is sitting next to a 36 degree air-stream?     

But even if the sensor was bad, it seems the compressor should eventually shut off with only having about 18 beverage cans in it, and not have run all night just to drop the temperature from 44F to 42F.

Dazed and confused ....

Offline donphillipe

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Feb 2016
  • Posts: 7
Re: Samsung Md. # RM255LASH
« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2016, 07:07:56 PM »
After 3 days the cup of water is down to 40 degrees while the frig thermostat is set on 38.   The compressor has been running now for 3 days.   Hard solid freeze in the freezer and making ice.   The frig is now acceptably cold, just don't understand why the temp is coming down so slow.

Offline donphillipe

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Feb 2016
  • Posts: 7
Re: Samsung Md. # RM255LASH
« Reply #9 on: March 07, 2016, 10:09:24 AM »
The refrigerator is back to normal operation after the 3 day defrost.   I have read elsewhere that Samsungs of this era require a "manual defrost" periodically.   Sounds like it may be demoted in the near future to "garage beer-frig".

 

Samsung RS2630WW Fan Noise

Started by MuffinFlavored

Replies: 18
Views: 18889
Last post December 26, 2011, 11:36:38 AM
by whirlpooltech
RS2530bsh Samsung Refrigerator

Started by grantski

Replies: 3
Views: 5168
Last post March 11, 2009, 12:08:51 PM
by Mr. Fix-It
samsung twin cool

Started by mgarciag

Replies: 1
Views: 2022
Last post May 25, 2012, 02:04:53 PM
by AJ
L2006-028 Samsung 2 Door 2 Drawer SxS Refrigerator Service Manual

Started by AJ

Replies: 0
Views: 3984
Last post August 20, 2009, 01:05:28 PM
by AJ
Repaired Evap. coil on Samsung fridge, now seems to continually run

Started by IDoSeaDoo

Replies: 2
Views: 3235
Last post June 04, 2012, 10:21:28 AM
by JWWebster
RS2533SW Samsung

Started by niobrara

Replies: 22
Views: 11692
Last post June 23, 2010, 11:44:40 PM
by krazytech