Whirlpool Ice Maker Woes

[jpany1]

The ice maker in our Whirlpool model ED5SHAXMB10 stopped making ice a couple of weeks back.  For a while it would sporadically make ice, but eventually came to a stop.  As best as I could I tried to follow some of the troubleshooting links already posted on this site.  I jumped the infrared receiver as described on this page http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=44.0, though I did not jump the thermostat.  With the infrared receiver jumped the ice maker constantly made ice.  Whether correctly or not, this lead me to the conclusion that I needed to replace the infrared units which I did.  Upon initial replacement the ice maker seemed to work properly, however even within the first day it stopped making ice.  Once the ice maker stopped, I played with the transmitter/receiver and generally after a minute or two could produce the solid light and ice making would resume for a couple of cycles.  I am now back to square one where the unit will not make any ice, and the arms are stuck around 2:00.  I bought a thermometer and have found the temperature fluctuates, but often fall to -10 degrees (supposed to be between 0 and -5 for ice making).  I don't think the line is frozen and my freezer is already on the warmest setting.  Did I buy the wrong part?  Is it the thermostat that is bad?  If so, wouldn't that have failed when I jumped the infrared receiver?  Thanks for any insight anyone might have.

Model Number: ED5SHAXMB10

[Repair-man]

If replacing the board did not fully solve the problem, replace the icemaker. Not only is there a mold thermostat in there which could fail, but a series of electrical contacts on the module that can pit and fail as well. It's not worth the time nor money to attempt to repair the internal parts, as a new unit is almost as cheap as buying only the thermostat and module.

[jpany1]

Thank you for the response, I will replace the ice maker.  Is it likely that both the board and the icemaker went bad, or did I replace the wrong part in the first place?  I'm still confused on why jumping the infrared receiver worked, but I'm just learning as I go here...

[Repair-man]

Jumpering the infrared is half the battle. You also have to jumper TH to L  on the icemaker in order to bypass the mold thermostat.

[jpany1]

Thanks again.  I had seen that in other posts, but in my head I thought that if I didn't jumper TH to L and it worked, then that would pinpoint that it was specifically the infrared boards at fault.  In my case when I jumpered only the infrared receiver I was able to fill up the ice bucket.  I thought that would take the thermostat out of the equation, but obviously I missed part of the equation.  Is my logic backwards?

[Repair-man]

You have to look at it like a road map, complete with drawbridges. Jumpering the Bk/Bk-W leads on the receiver board only lowers the bridge to the icemaker module. The internal mold thermostat is yet another bridge in the electrical path that must be closed.

All in how you look at it.

[jpany1]

Understood, thank you again for your help!  I'll let you know how it goes.

[JWWebster]

If you already have installed your new ice maker, just for fun why don't you test your old ice makers mold thermostat. Remove the arm and module,then remove the 2 long phillops screws that hold the plastic module housing to the ice mold. Pop out the mold thermostat from the plastic housing and place it into the freezer for several hours. Check it for continuity very quicly before it warms up. If it is open then it is bad. And these thermostats are about 10 bucks. A bit cheaper than buying the whole thang I would say.

[Repair-man]

JW, if you'd like to know a way to cheat at the bi-metal test, pick up a can of that computer keyboard air that comes with a jet nozzle. Maybe you already have one to dust your crickets off...never mind. Turn the can upside down and point the nozzle at the base of the bimetal while the ohm meter leads are attached. The upside down can will eject the liquid propellant (R-22) in frost form which will quickly freeze the surface of the disc, hopefully triggering a closed circuit. Cheap, quick and easy!

[JWWebster]

Years ago when I worked for Loop appliance the TV tech there had a product called instant freeze. What ya did was wait for a tv to start messing up in either in H hold or v hold or sound, to track down the overheated failing component you would spray each one with a squirt of instant freeze. When you hit the right one then that one got replaced and the TV was fixed.

[jpany1]

Okay guys, I'm back at square one again.  I replaced the ice maker as well and that did not fix the problem.  The tray pretty immediately filled with water and made an initial batch of ice, however the ice sat there for ~10 hours while the fingers were at about 2:00 without doing anything further.  I still get the two blinks followed by a one second pause.  I put the old infrared boards back in to test them with the new ice maker and still no dice.  I then went back to old faithful and jumpered the black and black/white on the receiver side and immediately the ice making cycle began with the new ice maker.  As best I can tell the ice maker and the infrared boards are what people replace in these scenarios.  What could be going on here?  Did my old ice maker short out the new infrared board?

[Repair-man]

Do you think having the service guide for this ice system would help? Here it is:


WP In-Door Ice

[JPG]

HI welcome to fixing appliances there is usually several reasons and several things broken, and some times it works sometimes not. the only thing left could be the water valve but if icemaker is full of water than valve is good. I believe u said u replaced the icemaker and infared boards right? even when u put in new parts does not mean the new parts will work good luck    I have put in new icemakers and they do the same thing u are saying    JPG

[JWWebster]

what is the temperature inside the freezer? If it ain't 25 F then the ice mold thermstat will never harvest. Check down below the icebox where the condenser coils are,Clean out the coils and make sure the condenser motor is turning at full speed.

[jpany1]

Hey guys, thanks for the suggestions.  I have gone through the service guide and everything I do still suggests the infrared boards are bad, despite being replaced.  I am pursuing an exchange of the replacement part.  Hopefully this will resolve the issue.  Thanks again for the help.