Author Topic: Victory FS-1D-S7 freezer won't get cold (just cool) after 3n1 installation  (Read 2203 times)

Offline RLR

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My commercial freezer quit getting cold. Something would click, the compressor (I think) would hum, then a few seconds later it would click off. The cycle would repeat after several minutes.
I talked to a guy who knows these things, and he gave me a Supco RCO410 to install. I installed it, plugged in the freezer, and the freezer started running. YAY!
Now, the compressor fan runs continuously, even when the compressor is not running, and overnight, even with the thermostat turned all the way cold, the freezer only goes down to 24F.
I think I installed the 3n1 correctly, but could I be low on refrigerant?

Offline go400

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Professionally, I do not like a 3 n 1 hard start. It puts far too much energy in the start winding and can cause catastrophic failure. Also, it provides no thermal overload protection.
 If the compressor will not start with the correct start device, you could use one, but put a 1000 joule surge protector in the wall outlet.
  Your compressor may have been overheating before due to a low refrigerant level. and shutting down on it's thermal overload.

Offline RLR

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 :thanks:Thanks for the reply, go400.  I will take your advice on the surge protector.  We like our house.
As for the inadequate cooling, what would be a quick, easy way to tell if I'm low on refrigerant, or I have some other issue?

Offline go400

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Just do the normal checks, verify the condenser is clean and the condenser fan running, then verify no frost on the freezer back panel and remove the panel and check the frost pattern.
 Half, partial,ight frost verifies low refrigerant level.

Offline RLR

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Thanks again.
My next step is to tear apart the unit to gain better access to the condenser.  I will straighten out all the bent fins, and blow the dust out with an air compressor...again.
"Half, partial,ight frost verifies low refrigerant level." - I assume you are referring to the evaporator coil (?).  The evaporator lives in a box on top of the unit behind the compressor and controls, and a fan circulates the air through the evaporator, through the freezer.  That is blowing good and strong, albeit cold air, not VERY cold (sub-zero).
Next time I plug it in, should I check the behavior of this evaporator coil - see if it gets cold on top, cold on bottom, frosting too much, etc??

Offline krazytech

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      I have been thinking about why you would put a surge protector on a questionable Freezer? Surge protectors are designed to protect sensitive electronics by diverting extra incoming voltage to ground . You are protecting the freezer from voltage spikes coming in, Not protecting the home circuit from the freezer.  or protecting the compressor from overheating..Even if the surge protector has a 15 amp reset fuse as long as the compressor pulls less the 15 amp it will not stop the current .. and if the compress has a dead short or pull more then 15 amp it will trip the circuit breaker.

Do put a surge protector on your high end washer or french door refrigerator. all the electronic boards need protection.


Surge protector are commonly made up of three component
  • MOV or metal oxide varistor (diverts the extra Voltage when incoming voltage spikes)
  • built-in fuse (thermal fuse to stop the current when the MOV over heat)
  • toroidal choke coil ( line-conditioning filter out small fluctuations in voltage
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Offline theoldstoveguy

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I don't recommend a surge protector for 2 reasons, #1 is 5 minutes after you go out the door for a 2 week vacation you get a surge. Welcome back to a green/black interior. I have had customers install one and have a dead refrigerator and can't move it to replace it after a surge.

Offline krazytech

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all MOV will fail with surges... just like a whirlpool relay..


also Never put a GFI on a refrigerator or freezer .. 
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Offline go400

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I have used a Belkin 1080 joule surge protector for a long time. A simple device with no circuit breaker. It clips the peaks of voltage spikes, but it is not a lightning
protector. Any power fault of the fridg, or a serious  power surge  must be handled by the house circuit breaker.

Offline krazytech

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go400 -So the purpose of using the belkin 1080 is to protect the refrigerator electronics from voltage sikes?
Check the Basics first!!! Read the Manual !!!Buy the tech a Beer!!!

Offline go400

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It also protects the compressor and PTC device. Line voltage spikes are usually 2x line voltage. Substation contact chatter could make them repetitive
 and could drive the rms power dissipated by the ptc around 1 kwt peak power for up to a second or two which would burn open a typical ptc device.
 This is not true for GE ptc devices as they are thermally superior.

Offline RLR

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Well still, with a clean condenser coil, the freezer still only goes down to 24F.  The compressor kicks on and off periodically (sounds normal), and the evaporator fan circulates air on and off (also sounds normal).  With freezer at 24F, cold control (thermostat) won't click, even turned back to the warmest setting.  Can I assume that's because 24F is out of its normal range?  Should I start to assume I am low on charge?

Offline go400

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Remove the back freezer panel and describe the frost pattern.

Offline RLR

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Go400, are you referring to the evaporator coil?  The freezer is just a "box", and there is really no panel to open on the back of the freezer.  The evap coil actually sits in a box on top of the freezer cabinet, and a fan circulates the air through it.  OK, I will plug it in again tonight and observe the coil.

Offline go400

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It is best to gain access to the bare evaporator coils to determine refrigeration status.

 

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