Author Topic: GE bottom freezer  (Read 3429 times)

Offline dab147315

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2013, 03:33:37 PM »
I google the eval.Fan motor for your model which is # WR60x10196 and click on appliance parts pro.And someone said on there forum said that the WR60x10185 had a little longer shaft and that wire colors were the same but wattage was a little different.But he remove shaft from bad motor and install it in the WR60x10185 which is about $40 dollars.I was wondering if you left the longer shaft in the WR60x10185 would it mount and has anyone tried it.The guy said the small increase in wattage would not hurt.Would save a lot of money if you could use it.HAS ANYONE TRIED THIS WITH THE LITTLE LONGER SHAFT?

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #16 on: June 19, 2013, 09:37:10 AM »
THANKS! I'm thinking its the confessor fan because when I turn it on I here a quick buzz and click coming from subside the fridge but one of those is about $200 so at $49 its definitely worth a shot especially seeing as I'm completely out of options. Thanks a lot dab I appreciate the help Mann, your the only one that responded I guess the other guys are stumped too.

Offline appltech

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #17 on: June 19, 2013, 12:02:09 PM »
With these DC motors, there is no testing it's resistance. If it has voltage, and its not moving, it's bad. That being said, I have had a few evap fan motors short and take out the board. Can't recall a cond fan doing the same, but i suppose its possible. If the motor has any discoloration at all (brownish), replace it. Check voltage coming out of the board to run the fans on J2. GE uses Pulse Width Modulation to run its fans, so you need more than just 12VDC at the motor.

Just my opinion, I'd never pull the shaft of one motor and put it in another. Even if the motor is $200, its still cheaper than a $2,000 refrigerator.

Did your display work with the old board? There was a service bulletin out a while ago on the GE 25cu ft top mount. Basically if you have voltage going to the display/control board, but the main board doesn't receive voltage back, it goes into a 'limp mode' meaning that it could run very erratically. This bulletin doesnt apply to the bottom mount, but its worth knowing. The mini manual on this model doesn't list a specific voltage to run the control board. Check for any DC voltage between all three pins of J4, with J4 unplugged. Plug it in, check for the same voltage at the control board.

While you're at the main board, checking all the thermistors is really quick and simple. Their early thermistors had a lot of issues.

Let me know what you find! Good luck!

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #18 on: June 19, 2013, 01:07:00 PM »
With these DC motors, there is no testing it's resistance. If it has voltage, and its not moving, it's bad. That being said, I have had a few evap fan motors short and take out the board. Can't recall a cond fan doing the same, but i suppose its possible. If the motor has any discoloration at all (brownish), replace it. Check voltage coming out of the board to run the fans on J2. GE uses Pulse Width Modulation to run its fans, so you need more than just 12VDC at the motor.

Just my opinion, I'd never pull the shaft of one motor and put it in another. Even if the motor is $200, its still cheaper than a $2,000 refrigerator.

Did your display work with the old board? There was a service bulletin out a while ago on the GE 25cu ft top mount. Basically if you have voltage going to the display/control board, but the main board doesn't receive voltage back, it goes into a 'limp mode' meaning that it could run very erratically. This bulletin doesnt apply to the bottom mount, but its worth knowing. The mini manual on this model doesn't list a specific voltage to run the control board. Check for any DC voltage between all three pins of J4, with J4 unplugged. Plug it in, check for the same voltage at the control board.

While you're at the main board, checking all the thermistors is really quick and simple. Their early thermistors had a lot of issues.

Let me know what you find! Good luck!

When I checked for voltage to the condenser fan it was jumping between .50 and .24 but the tech shred says there 12 vdc. Can you check for continuity from the back of the fridge? And the shaft on the $49 dollar motor looks like the same length as the $200 motor.

Offline niobrara

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #19 on: June 19, 2013, 01:20:02 PM »
continuity really wont do you any good on the motors with chips Rick. You really want to check from the board first and make sure your getting the correct Dc power to it.

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #20 on: June 19, 2013, 01:42:28 PM »
The only power to the board is the 120v going in. The DC voltage should be converted and delivered from the board. Right?

Offline niobrara

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #21 on: June 19, 2013, 02:10:47 PM »
Yes

Offline ApplianceGuru

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #22 on: June 19, 2013, 02:11:43 PM »
defective new main board?
Appliance Heating & Air Tech

Offline niobrara

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #23 on: June 19, 2013, 02:13:08 PM »
Yep

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #24 on: June 19, 2013, 03:22:00 PM »
I'm gonna try and see if its loosing the. 24v common at the evaporator motor.

Offline dab147315

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #25 on: June 19, 2013, 04:33:01 PM »
If you install a new board again i would leave J2 unplug and see if compressor turns on and the display lights up.How many board have you install on this?If that evap. fan is shorted it will blow board again.What to you think about leaving J2 up plug to see if compressor and display lights come on ANYBODY.Just as a test.Also never seen a condoners fan goes bad were it blows out board.He says compressor does not even come on and also display.My thinking is if compressor comes on with J2 unplug and displays comes  on bad evap.fan motor. What to you guys think?

Offline dab147315

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #26 on: June 19, 2013, 04:41:52 PM »
Yea Rick also check all thermistors as from the J1 plug as they all should have about the same resistance as the box has been shut off.I guess this is the case.

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #27 on: June 19, 2013, 04:54:47 PM »
I can't figure how to get the freezer back panel off! But it works with the J2 connector off so I just need to change the fan now.

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #28 on: June 19, 2013, 10:24:16 PM »
That panel was a pain In the ass to get off but ingot it off and switched out the fan and it works fine. Thanks to all you guys for the help. I was so excited when I fixed it. And on the way out another guy stopped me and asked to fix his fridge I fixed it and made something off that too.

Offline niobrara

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #29 on: June 19, 2013, 11:44:43 PM »
Good job

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