Photos: Whirlpool Duet washer with bad bearings, only 2.5 years old!

[volkskid]

Finaly! My washer tub has been replaced! No more jet taking off! Lol! The technicians even left the old tub at my place. I wonder if the seal is a part I would be able to buy? I'm pretty sure I can get the bearing at a bearing shop. My only problem is that I don't have much room to store the old tub. Anybody want to buy an old Whirlpool Duet washer tub....hahaha!

Thanks guys!

[AJ]

That's great!

Glad to hear you got it repaired. 

Thanks for the update.

[mikesbikes]

Guess I'm late to the party,

I'd keep the extra tub and replace the bearing for future use.  From what I've read and my own experience, you'll be needing it.

My front loader's bearing failed @ 2.8 years, (I guess I'm luckier than you).  How is it, they cover the drum for 5 years but not the bearing that supports the whole mess?  That'd be like Ford or GM saying your engine is covered for 5 years, but not the main bearings supporting the crankshaft. 

After going round and round with the rude call-center folks at Whirlpool, it's time for a letter to the COE, (Like that'll be read).
Looks like I'll be replacing it myself.  I'll be using a stainless   
steel marine grade one though.

I will never, never, never, never, never, buy another product made by Whirpool.  I don't care who's name is on the badge.  Just plain junk products from a junk company.

[JWWebster]

Mike why did you want to buy the front loader in the first place?

[tgoods]

Here's someone selling a Duet bearing kit for $79. It includes the bearings and seal. You could probably find the bearings cheaper somewhere else. The seal might be hard to find.

[JWWebster]

From the Fab AJ Forum:
Duet washer started getting louder and louder during the spin cycle. When I manually turned the basket I could feel that the bearings were shot. A quick search of the internet confirmed that this problem was no fluke. I found an illustrated parts breakdown of my washer online, and saw that Whirlpool only offers a replacement rear tub assembly, at a cost of $408. Needless to say, I was peeved. I paid about $960 two years ago for this machine, and now it will require $6-700 in repairs. Unacceptable. So, having a mechanical background, I started to tear into the machine myself. I tore it all the way down to the rear tub half. I found what appeared to be the problem with my machine, hair. Hair worked its way to the bearing area, slowed unseated the seal, and then acted as a conduit for water to enter the bearing cavity. The seal itself actually looked fine. Yet the steel hub that the bearings are pressed into was badly corroded, as were the bearings, and even the driveshaft had corrosion on it. I pounded out the cheap factory bearings, cleaned up the bearing cavity and driveshaft, and replaced them with some higher quality Toyo's from my local bearings and drive store, P/N's 6206ZZC3 & 6205ZZC3. Unfortunately they didnt have a suitable replacement seal in stock. I didnt damage the factory one too badly upon removal, so I straightened it up with a couple of hammer taps, made sure it sealed nicely against the driveshaft, and reused it. The new bearings cost me $20. I made sure I sent a nastygram to Whirlpool, they offered me a replacement rear tub for 50% off, I told them to stick it. Hopefully I get at least 3 more years out of it, I've already started looking for my next machine, I'm likely going to buy a SpeedQueen. Anyways, if your tub bearings are shot and you have the will, they can be replaced yourself for a fraction of the cost of a factory rear tub half. My advice, take notes during disassembly, keep all the hardware from the different components you remove separated from one another. Dont be afraid to use permanent marker to write reminders directly on the components as theyll be hidden inside the reassembled washer when done. I did the repairs by myself, having a helper wouldve made things much easier. As for tools, I was shocked at how few I actually needed. A nut driver or torx apex, a 1/2" socket and rachet, some slip joint pliers, a wrench to remove the drive pulley, and a hammer and punch to remove/install the bearings.