Author Topic: Maytag MAH4000AWW  (Read 1105 times)

Offline vtrasikis

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Maytag MAH4000AWW
« on: May 23, 2013, 12:23:20 PM »
I have a Maytag MAH4000AWW washer that will NOT go into the high speed spin.  It will drain the water, the door is locked and the door lock light is on.  I check to see if the R11 resister is burned out and it is not, at least there is no sign of it being burned out.   Any suggestions as to what could be wrong??  Is it still the control board??

Offline tgoods

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Re: Maytag MAH4000AWW
« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2013, 01:17:09 PM »
Usually it's the spin-enable switch or one of the out of balance switches.  Remove the front and lift the top.  There's a plug towards the back with two blue wires. Check for continuity, if it's 0 ohms, the out of balance switches are good.  Start the spin cycle.  Watch for the plunger to depress the switch on the right side of the door latch.  If it depresses the switch, check for continuity.  If it doesn't depress the switch, you will need to replace some latch components.

Offline vtrasikis

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Re: Maytag MAH4000AWW
« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2013, 01:33:53 PM »
Checked and it is 0.  plunger works... door nicely locked :)

Offline BJL

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Re: Maytag MAH4000AWW
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2013, 08:59:36 AM »
Did this ever get resolved? I have same problem. Wet clothes. I tested pump (removed it and applied 120VAC across contacts and spins fine. Cleaned pump and drain hose.  Checked control board and no blown R11.

Thanks for the prompt help.

Appreciate.

Offline vtrasikis

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Re: Maytag MAH4000AWW
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2013, 09:43:43 AM »
Nope... never heard of any other suggestions.... 

Offline BJL

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Re: Maytag MAH4000AWW
« Reply #5 on: July 15, 2013, 10:16:14 AM »
Thanks and disappointing. So never got it working I take it?

Offline vtrasikis

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Re: Maytag MAH4000AWW
« Reply #6 on: July 15, 2013, 10:32:29 AM »
nope...

Offline tgoods

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Re: Maytag MAH4000AWW
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2013, 02:49:20 PM »
Do you still have the washer?  I still think it's the spin-enable switch.  Sometimes they will test good with a meter but will open when the control sends power through them.  A better test is to check for a voltage drop across the terminals when the plunger has fully depressed the switch.  Any voltage means you have a bad switch, 0 volts is good.

Offline vtrasikis

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Re: Maytag MAH4000AWW
« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2013, 02:55:19 PM »
nope, not after we called repair service and they all started to quote a price of around 300+.....  figured a new one slightly more then that would be better in the long run even though we really liked that waasher

Offline def

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Re: Maytag MAH4000AWW
« Reply #9 on: July 16, 2013, 08:29:54 PM »
I sure would like to buy your old MAH4000 if you still have it. Where are you located? I'm in Alabama near Birmingham. Are we close?
I used to repair RADAR then they discontinued vacuum tubes. Pity

 

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