Author Topic: Whirlpool ED25PMXRWR2 sidebyside NO white "return/neutral" =no lights, evap fan  (Read 2119 times)

Offline Albers Family

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The left rear corner has the line cord, junction box, then wires come up from there into freezer rear left corner.  The junction strip in the freezer is above the evaporator, about 2 ft off the freezer floor, back left side (from front).  I figured to drill about 4" above that strip, assuming there would be no wires there.  I thought to just penetrate the inner metal liner, then poke an ice pick through to avoid any possible wires,punch it into the back metal face to mark the location, then probably drill from the back to just penetrate the metal.  Then poke a wire through the insulation, attach to the white wire plug, and seal around each hole with silicone. 

Offline go400

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That's what I was thinking of. I would drill the hole near the drain hole, if possible.

Offline Albers Family

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There is a drain pan incorporated with the drain to collect all the drips from the evaporator, so I can't drill there.  Then I thought maybe a couple of inches up the back wall from there, but maybe there is a wire bundle coming up there.  That's why I was thinking a couple of feet higher, above the connector, so maybe above a lot of the wires. 

I was thinking the silicone would act like a grommet to keep the metal walls from cutting the wire insulation. 

Offline Albers Family

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The wire is installed as I suggested and everything is working fine. 
I drilled to just penetrate the freezer inside metal, then widened the hole to 1/4", then probed the insulation with an awl to push any possible wires aside, then hammered the awl to penetrate the metal back, used the penetration as pilot to drill the back.  Taped a neutral wire up the back, then siliconed the wire in the hole inside and out.  I attached the new white neutral to the white side of the defrost bi-metal cutoff switch.

For those curious about the original weird symptom of the evaporator fan only running with the freezer door open, thermostat off, and dim light bulb.  The power was supplied by the door switch, through the light bulb (very dim), then "backward" through the evap fan finding a return/neutral through the red wire (from thermostat) that normally triggers the compressor.  There is only about 1.7 ohms through the red wire compressor start circuit back to neutral on the terminal block.  The compressor did not start with that smaller current running through the start circuit (maybe the relay coil?). 

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

Online theoldstoveguy

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Good to hear you got it going.

 

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