Author Topic: Whirlpool ED25PMXRWR2 sidebyside NO white "return/neutral" =no lights, evap fan  (Read 1552 times)

Offline Albers Family

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I have an older Whirlpool ED25PMXRVR2 (but I think the white version is ED25PMXRWR2).  Bottom of freezer frozen but top thawed, so found the evaporator fan was not running. Also, frig and freezer light don't work.  Compressor starts OK etc.  Defrost timer tests OK. 
Now for the WEIRD thing, if I turn the thermostat down to off, then open the freezer the evap fan will come on!  I found that as long as I have the freezer light bulb screwed in, the fan will run and the light will be very dim.  The fan seems to be running in series through the bulb circuit!?  Then testing the "return" or neutral white wires, none of them trace back to the white neutrals in the junction box where the line cord comes in!?  So, measuring voltage on both sides of the evap fan to ground I get the same 120v.  So the red wire from the thermostat provides the juice, but there is no "sink" or neutral since the white wire is 120v also.

There must be a short of some kind, but difficult to research without a wiring diagram. 

The wiring schematic sheet is not in any of the usual places on the frig, so it must be gone.  I haven't been able to find a schematic anywhere online.  Noticed you had a few older Whirlpool schematics in your Google Drive, but none were the one I need.  Where can I download a schematic, or what older Whirlpool would have a similar schematic?

Thanks for any help.

Offline AJ

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Closest tech sheet I could find.
Just added it to our google drive.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BzIiBNwRIV4NUXZmRkNuclh4bEE/edit?usp=sharing

Hope it helps
Hope you find our site helpful.
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Offline Albers Family

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Thanks so much AJ !
The 1115580 document you found is the exact literature sheet Whirlpool had for this model. 
From what I have looked at so far it is PERFECT for the wiring colors etc., so I am set for much better troubleshooting. 
I will let you know of my results. 
Thanks again!

Offline AJ

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Quote
I will let you know of my results.

That would be great, thanks.
Hope you find our site helpful.
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Offline go400

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You may find internal splice that is impossible to fix.
 I once ran a wire down through the drain to fix this type problem.

Offline theoldstoveguy

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I ran one through the rubber grommet (away from the refrigeration tubing but same grommet) and it worked for 7 years.

Offline Albers Family

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You guys are right!
Somehow there is a break in the white neutral, between the terminal board by the line cord, and the first point I can test inside the freezer back (only about 2 ft away).  I wondered about the design when I saw only one 18 gauge white neutral for the entire upper frig and freezer.  This includes the heaters, ice maker, ice auger motor, etc..  Doesn't seem like a good design choice.

Does the silicone rubber connector come loose from inside the back of the freezer , so those wire connections can be removed? 
If not, I agree that the easiest or only solution is to string a new wire along a different path.

I can't see the grommet where the refrigerant tubes go through, so if you can point me where to look, I'll check it out.  I can easily see the freezer drain, and stringing a wire there is certainly straight forward.  However, I also wonder about just drilling a hole through the metal back into the freezer compartment, then sealing a wire in with silicone.   Obviously a spot needs to be chosen that doesn't interfere with any wiring.  What are the thoughts on these choices?

Offline theoldstoveguy

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Refrigerant tubing usually goes into the cabinet from  the bottom. Some older went up the back (covered by a plate) and in.

Offline Albers Family

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The small liquid line is bonded to the large returning vapor line, and goes over the condenser to the front of the frig side, then over a "collecting pan", then up through the divider wall between frig & freezer.  They bring the two lines all the way to the front, so I assume you can see if condensation drips from them into a little pan?  Needless to say, there is no easy way to feed a wire along this path. 

What do you think of the idea of drilling through the back, stringing a wire through to the freezer neutral terminal, then sealing the hole around the wire?  Do the wires coming into the freezer come up the corner where the connector strip is?


Offline theoldstoveguy

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Where do the existing wires come in?

Offline Albers Family

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The left rear corner has the line cord, junction box, then wires come up from there into freezer rear left corner.  The junction strip in the freezer is above the evaporator, about 2 ft off the freezer floor, back left side (from front).  I figured to drill about 4" above that strip, assuming there would be no wires there.  I thought to just penetrate the inner metal liner, then poke an ice pick through to avoid any possible wires,punch it into the back metal face to mark the location, then probably drill from the back to just penetrate the metal.  Then poke a wire through the insulation, attach to the white wire plug, and seal around each hole with silicone. 

Offline go400

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That's what I was thinking of. I would drill the hole near the drain hole, if possible.

Offline Albers Family

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There is a drain pan incorporated with the drain to collect all the drips from the evaporator, so I can't drill there.  Then I thought maybe a couple of inches up the back wall from there, but maybe there is a wire bundle coming up there.  That's why I was thinking a couple of feet higher, above the connector, so maybe above a lot of the wires. 

I was thinking the silicone would act like a grommet to keep the metal walls from cutting the wire insulation. 

Offline Albers Family

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The wire is installed as I suggested and everything is working fine. 
I drilled to just penetrate the freezer inside metal, then widened the hole to 1/4", then probed the insulation with an awl to push any possible wires aside, then hammered the awl to penetrate the metal back, used the penetration as pilot to drill the back.  Taped a neutral wire up the back, then siliconed the wire in the hole inside and out.  I attached the new white neutral to the white side of the defrost bi-metal cutoff switch.

For those curious about the original weird symptom of the evaporator fan only running with the freezer door open, thermostat off, and dim light bulb.  The power was supplied by the door switch, through the light bulb (very dim), then "backward" through the evap fan finding a return/neutral through the red wire (from thermostat) that normally triggers the compressor.  There is only about 1.7 ohms through the red wire compressor start circuit back to neutral on the terminal block.  The compressor did not start with that smaller current running through the start circuit (maybe the relay coil?). 

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

Offline theoldstoveguy

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Good to hear you got it going.

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