Author Topic: Ge washer transmission bearing replacement (lower)  (Read 5157 times)

Offline enchantgy .

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Re: Ge washer transmission bearing replacement (lower)
« Reply #15 on: November 14, 2013, 09:25:12 PM »
This has been a great help. Thanks a lot!

Taking the spring ring off was a bit of a challenge. Especially because I was wondering how the heck I was going to be able to get it back in place.  (with the brake springs applying pressure and all).

I found a way that worked quite well.

I took a 6 point 1" deep socket (I used an impact socket, but that shouldn't matter) and slid it over the shaft and applied loads of pressure on it (I put the 1/2" ratchet on it so I could apply pressure easier and the ring snapped into place quite easily!

In case anyone is wondering about the bearing...  the 2RS means 2 Rubber Seals and the -1  for "1 inch innner diameter" can appear before or after the 2RS.

So, it could be 6205-1-2RS or 6205-2RS-1

I used this one: http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Roller/Bearing-6205-1-2RS/3850708.p


Offline hongo

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Re: Ge washer transmission bearing replacement (lower)
« Reply #16 on: February 04, 2014, 08:11:33 AM »
Hi, my GE washer won't spin now. It will spin without load though, that is, with empty tub. It agitates fine, and I noticed when it agitates the inner tub rotates periodically at one direction as well. When it does spin with empty tub it gives out noise. I have replaced the tub bearing and seal but without any luck. Could this problem be caused by a bad transmission bearing discussed in this thread? Thanks!

Offline Know_one

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Re: Ge washer transmission bearing replacement (lower)
« Reply #17 on: May 20, 2014, 04:18:57 PM »
This is probably 90% of the call for a replacement transmission.... making noise, won't spin or seized. Because of unbalanced axial, concentric and radial loads during spin dry amplified by leverage provided by a 2’ high cloths basket wobbling all over, HUGE out of spec loads are set up on the bearing race surfaces generating excessive heat which destroys the seals and allows water and junk to enter destroy the races and balls in 3 or 4 years. The terms ‘designed-in obsolescence’ and ‘calculated lifetime’ come to mind here. For the obsessive, the most ideal bearing for this application would be a roller, not ball, bearing that allows more tolerance for non-axial and non-concentric loading with better heat dissipation. The choice of replacement is obvious... a $5.00 bearing on on eBav and an hour work vs $250 for a new  transmission and $200 more for a guy to come out and replace it. Most buy a new machine for six bills. 

GREAT procedure and very easy. There are a couple of issues I've found. They mention a 6205-2RS bearing. The bearing that came out of my transmission is also labeled a 6205-2RS on what was left of a seal. The problem is a 6205 has an ID of 25 mm (.9842) and an OD of 52 mm (2.0472). The ID is too small to go over the .9960 transmission shaft. You have to use a 6205-2RS-16 which is a ‘special metric’ and has a 25.4 mm ID (1.000) or use an English bearing 1.000" ID and a 2.000' OD to begin with and is much more common. I suggest a 1641-2RS instead, again eBay for about five bucks and a dab of Loctite on the outer race if necessary.

Having been howling on spin for many month before giving up the ghost, my bearing had completely disintegrated dropping egg shaped pellets in the bottom of the cabinet completely seizing the basket. This is likely to be the condition of many. This was a result of a leaking tub seal and corrosion within the bearing and on the surrounding surfaces and shafts. I couldn't remove the inner race from the transmission shaft without first slicing through most of it's thickness with a Dremel Tool and cutoff wheel then a cold chisel rap along the slit to split it. Easily done as a bearing race is extremely hard and thus brittle.  Removing the outer race proved to be somewhat interesting. There isn't enough 'meat' exposed to get a good grip with a punch or chisel. I again used the cutoff to slice two narrow (.050") slits out of the stamped sheet metal plate retainer lip so I could peel the notch back and get a punch tip on the outer race edge. No problem then. The retainer doesn't undergo any stress as it just seats the bearing depth and squareness so this isn't a problem.

Transmission fixed in about an our and a half saving about $300 for a replacement or six Franklins for a new machine in the process.  If I can get another three or four years out of this electromechanical monkey-motion fiasco, I am one happy camper. THANKS FOR THE PICS!!! Never would have attempted it without. I was visioning spot welds and rivets.     

Offline Know_one

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Re: Ge washer transmission bearing replacement (lower)
« Reply #18 on: May 20, 2014, 05:01:59 PM »
Hi, my GE washer won't spin now. It will spin without load though, that is, with empty tub. It agitates fine, and I noticed when it agitates the inner tub rotates periodically at one direction as well. When it does spin with empty tub it gives out noise. I have replaced the tub bearing and seal but without any luck. Could this problem be caused by a bad transmission bearing discussed in this thread? Thanks!


You probably will find the lower bearing trashed. Just before my machine gave up the ghost, it was doing the same thing. Seems as how the brake plate drags when it tries to spin without balls in the bearing support the tub (duh!) and is just too much of a load for the motor to twist. Your motor is probably getting REALLY hot and kicking out the thermal overload. Look in the bottom of the cabinet for the balls that used to be in the bearing. 

Offline fairbank56

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Re: Ge washer transmission bearing replacement (lower)
« Reply #19 on: May 21, 2014, 08:10:49 AM »
There are a couple of issues I've found. They mention a 6205-2RS bearing. The bearing that came out of my transmission is also labeled a 6205-2RS on what was left of a seal. The problem is a 6205 has an ID of 25 mm (.9842) and an OD of 52 mm (2.0472). The ID is too small to go over the .9960 transmission shaft. You have to use a 6205-2RS-16 which is a ‘special metric’ and has a 25.4 mm ID (1.000) or use an English bearing 1.000" ID and a 2.000' OD to begin with and is much more common.

  I pointed that out in post #11. The bearing I have been using is this one.
http://bearingsdirect.com/6205-2RS-1-Special-Size-Ball-Bearing-1-inch-x52x15-mm.html

Eric

Offline Know_one

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Re: Ge washer transmission bearing replacement (lower)
« Reply #20 on: May 21, 2014, 11:11:06 AM »
Hi!
For some reason, didn't get the entire reply thread last time here... I didn't catch it. After registering I posted the reply, reloaded the bog and saw that there was a LOT more of it. The bearing you suggested metric and is a much better choice as it has a 52 mm OD (2.0472) which is identical to the OEM unit that comes out. It would be a nice press fit in back in. An English bearing, such as the one I used,  has a 2.0000 OD and is sloppy in the hole with about .020 on all sides. I used 1 wrap of shim stock and Loctite Stud & Bearing Mount to fill the gap and it seems fine. The 3 dimpled metal peens that hold the OEM in place seem to center the 2.0000 well and hold it, but it isn't a press fit. When I was digging around locally for the bearing I came across a couple of 'It's special, we would would have to order it' and a price tag just south of $40 after a week or two. I really didn't pursue it much further. I hate that word 'special' and snagged the English unit for $14.00 with tax and made it work. Acceptable in this application, but not absolutely correct either. I looked up the number on eBay and found out I paid twice what I should have. Generally after shipping, mail order is close to a wash with local retail not having to wait a couple of days. This case, not. Most everything I came across is 'free shipping'. I don't think it's going to be a problem with the Loctite. If it breaks loose and starts to spin, I know that 'special' isn't 'unique special' for this critter and will snag the metric unit with the 1" ID.

Offline romanowski72

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Re: Ge washer transmission bearing replacement (lower)
« Reply #21 on: May 21, 2014, 11:04:40 PM »
Wow Fairbanks you really did a great job on this!  I forgot all about the posting but I have done several transmissions for customers and they love the cost of saving money.  I do use a 6205 bearing but a zz as opposed to a rs, I also use a bearing heater and they go on easy.
Nice work people!

 

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