Whirlpool dryer, WED8300SW1 thermal fuse

[boss96]

Hi guys, need some input on this one. Went out on a service call for this where the drum is not turning. Thermal fuse was open, replaced it, cleaned out the lint both inside and also the vent. Within 10 minutes it failed again with the complaint that it gets hot to the touch.
Went back and also replaced the thermostat and all the other sensors. At that point it seemed to be running much cooler when I would touch the ex. vent tube. Left the house and next day get the same complaint.
At this point I am thinking of the heating element perhaps shorting to the shield or the motor drawing too much current.
What do you guys think?

[haroldsappliance]

 

[haroldsappliance]

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Heating-Element-Assembly/8544771/1180054?modelNumber=WED8300SW1

[boss96]

Thanks for the reply.
For curiosity, what is happening, is the element broken and contacting the shield causing a smaller portion of the element to heat up and get too hot?

[haroldsappliance]

That's what it sounds like. Remove the wires and check with an ohm meter from each terminal to the housing for continuity.

[JWWebster]

Did you remove the filter chute? I have had guys buy fuses and come back only to buy more. Problem was the filter chute was clogged like this:
http://appliancejunk.blogspot.com/2011/08/roper-dryer-tune-up.html

[boss96]

Yes, I did.

[JWWebster]

Ok then you have a bad control thermistor IF the heater is not shorted to chassis. Probably fatigued to the point of overshooting desired cotton temp of 160 maximum. I predict that instead of the control stat working the 250 limit on the heater is cycling. This causes excessive heat and wrinkled to hell and back hot clothes. Seen it.

[boss96]

I don't think so as I replaced all the sensors at once on the second trip. This is a 3rd party warranty so I replaced all the sensors.

[JWWebster]

The only other thang is the Main control then. As the clothes tumble around the control monitors the thermistor and the dryness sensor bars. It is the job of the thermistor to relay back any changes in resistance to the control and that is how it knows to power up the heater. Did ya try yanking out the connections to the brain and cleaning the corrosion of the contacts?

[AJ]

JW, you don't think it's simply a faulty heating element as Harold suggested?

[JWWebster]

I would check the element for shorts first thing. The last thing I always do when I put any appliance back  together is check for continuity between either hot leg on the power cord to frame.

[AJ]

What did you end up finding wrong? 

[boss96]

Sorry it took so long, this is a 3rd party warranty and they take awhile to send parts (they won't let us supply them ourselves).
I went back out with the new thermal fuse and a heating element. Don't forget I had previously replaced the thermostat and various thermistors/sensors already.
The unit ran for just under 10 minutes and blew the fuse again. Since this the the third try the warranty company will be doing a buyout.
I wish I had been able to get to the bottom of this problem but since it is not cost effective for us anymore...
I still wonder if perhaps we installed a bad thermostat or something...

[RegUS_PatOff]

did you test to see if the Heating Element was partially shorted to the chassis / ground ?