Author Topic: LG wm2032hw LE error after replacing hall effects sensor, happens intermittently  (Read 4191 times)

Offline john63

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  • Member Since: Feb 2010
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<<<I've replaced the hall effects sensor two times.>>>

********

When replacing the HALL EFFECT SENSOR---it's *very* important not to break/damage the plastic *tabs* on the STATOR.

The Hall Effect Sensor *snaps* onto these "tabs"---and is held in position this way.

On your washer---there are four tabs---one on the inner part of the Stator and three on the outer part of the Stator.

If the "tabs" are damaged---the Hall Effect Sensor will not remain in the correct position during a cycle (moves/changes position)---and will trigger an "LE" error (and sometimes a growling/grinding noise).

If those tabs missing---a new STATOR is needed.


Offline jpiezo

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I finally broke down and purchased the controller board, the LE issue has gone away. Now I am debating swapping the new stator and harness which were replaced prior to the controller board and returning them. They were replaced and the LE error kept coming back intermittently.

Also, with new harness, stator with hall effects sensor (third one since the issue began) and controller board, the machine still spins with more wobble than when it was new. It seemed to do more self-balancing when it was new. now it goes back and forth slowly as though it is trying to balance the load, yet then starts the spin and shakes a little. A little does means not knocking or moving the machine across the floor, yet too loud to watch tv in the next room with the door open to our laundry. The ball sensor seems fine, however I am not sure how to actually test it to make sure. The one test that has worked is seeing the machine stop with an uneven load error when washing heavy rugs. However, when this happens the machine gets really loud and truly shakes.

This message is mostly for follow-up as others can learn to replace the controller board when all else fails. I kept going back to the hall effects sensor because it is said to be the most common cause, then the harness and all say "rarely the controller board".

Thank you very much for your advice and guidance John63!!!!

Offline domain

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  • Member Since: Nov 2012
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As john63 reminds us, a new HALL EFFECT SENSOR dated after 2008 with a RED DOT on it, denotes a updated sensor. I personally have never replaced an UPDATED sensor due to failure. If you wanna simply check the ball sensor and circuit, lean the machine back around a 45 degree angle and press power. It should show up "Be" as in ball error  very shortly. That is a test I use, but may not be bullet proof. O0

Offline john63

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  • Member Since: Feb 2010
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<<<I finally broke down and purchased the controller board, the LE issue has gone away.>>>

***********

A *rare* case of an intermittent/failing MAIN BOARD----in which an "LE" error occurs (rather than a "0" on the Display Panel).

**************

<<<Now I am debating swapping the new stator and harness which were replaced prior to the controller board and returning them.>>>

***************

Definitely return the STATOR---but not the Wire Harness.

*****************

<<<Also, with new harness, stator with hall effects sensor (third one since the issue began) and controller board, the machine still spins with more wobble than when it was new. It seemed to do more self-balancing when it was new. now it goes back and forth slowly as though it is trying to balance the load, yet then starts the spin and shakes a little. A little does means not knocking or moving the machine across the floor, yet too loud to watch tv in the next room with the door open to our laundry.>>>

***************

If the washer is older than 2009 and on a *wood* floor---this is typical.
TRUE BALANCE technology---used on 2009 & newer LG washers eliminates this condition.

Lowes/Home Depot sell *ShakeAway Pads*---four dense square rubber pads---one for each corner of the washer legs.

Reduces noise significantly---but not shaking.

*****************

<<<The ball sensor seems fine, however I am not sure how to actually test it to make sure.>>>

******************

I've only replaced *one* Ball Sensor (early/primitive version of vibration monitoring) which failed from water contamination---caused by a leaking hose.

The Ball Sensor is known for triggering *nuisance* "UE" errors---due to it's location/proximity to the Tub Assy(especially on wood floors).

The Ball Sensor Bracket can removed/discarded---and the black-color square-shaped sensor itself can be attached directly to the back of the washer in it's original position/orientation.

Drill 4 holes in the back the washer (12 oclock/6 oclock holes and 9 oclock/3 oclock holes)---use zip ties to secure the Ball Sensor onto the back sheetmetal---firmly.








« Last Edit: March 25, 2013, 12:41:03 AM by john63 »

Offline Robert Spendlove

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  • Member Since: Jul 2013
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One troubleshooting tip that has worked for me  (3X now).


I've replaced my hall effect sensor 3 times now, in 9 years.   I now have one of the 2002 model sensors with the red dot so I hope it's my last one.  This has held true each time, so I think it's pretty acccurate, but it may just be a coincidence... in other words, your mileage may vary.



Drain the water out of the tub to reduce resistance.
               (I've sucked it out with a shop vac.  then opened the filter with the shop vac nearby to suck the water out of it as I break the seal on the filter.)

Make sure it is plugged in.

Make sure it is OFF.

Give the drum a good spin, it should come to life just as if you've pressed the power button.  If it does not, your hall effect sensor is bad.




Like I say, this is not a foolproof test, but has held true for me through 3 hall effect sensor replacements.     Good luck.

Offline john63

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  • Member Since: Feb 2010
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It's much easier/more simple to check the Serial Number...

805 and lower---Replace the Hall Effect Sensor (6501KW2002A) and the Wire Harness (6877ER1016D)

806 and higher---Likely a failing/failed Wire Harness/Too much or the incorrect detergent used/Failed Main Board.

****************************

<<<Drain the water out of the tub to reduce resistance.
               (I've sucked it out with a shop vac.  then opened the filter with the shop vac nearby to suck the water out of it as I break the seal on the filter.)

Make sure it is plugged in.

Make sure it is OFF.

Give the drum a good spin, it should come to life just as if you've pressed the power button.  If it does not, your hall effect sensor is bad.>>>

******************************

An anecdotal observation.

Not an accurate indicator of Hall Effect Sensor integrity.

If the washer has not been used for 6 or more hours---rotating/spinning the Inner Drum by hand---will *not* illuminate/turn on the Control Panel lights.

After a cycle has started (or ended)---the Control Panel lights *will* turn on---if the Inner Drum is manually rotated.




 

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