Author Topic: LG wm2032hw LE error after replacing hall effects sensor, happens intermittently  (Read 3367 times)

Offline jpiezo

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Hello,

We have had this washer for about 10 years. For the past four or so years we have had an occasional LE error that will go away for as long as a few weeks, then return. I have done all of the many steps mentioned in several other forums, from rotating the drum counterclockwise 4X, then clockwise, replaced the hall effects sensor (twice), and carefully inspected the wiring harness and all modular connections.  I even removed the modular connector from the stator to make sure that the connections below are solid. There I could see the copper core wires going into the clamps for the modular connector.

I have not ordered the PCB or stator because this issue is intermittent. I may be wrong, however it is my assumption that if either of these were truly bad, the issue would be consistent? This still leads me to think that this is a wiring issue, however I have viewed the wires and do not see any signs of heating, cracked insulation, or corrosion on the modular fittings.

The only steps I have not taken are to check readings on a multi-meter at each end of the plugs. I've checked continuity on the wires, yet nothing else. The service manuals I have do not provide instructions of which leads to check, whether plugged in or not, and what readings to consider "good". Still, I question why would this issue not be constant?

Any advice?

Thank you in advance.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2013, 11:58:54 PM by jpiezo »

Offline john63

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<<<This still leads me to think that this is a wiring issue>>>

************

Yes---it could be that.
There's a *potential* for damaged/cracked/pulled wire(s) in the WIRE HARNESS that runs/routes from the HALL EFFECT SENSOR to the base of the washer (where it's wrapped in a bag and secured by a nylon zip tie).

I believe that once-in-a-blue-moon---an assembly line worker will accidently tighten that wire loom to the washer base---a little too taught/stretched---with the zip tie.

Over time---during the spin cycle (gyrating/rocking motion of the tub) constant pulling of the wire loom causes one or more of the wires to be pulled apart---but one or two *strands* of wire still allow HALL EFFECT SENSOR function. Intermittently.

It's VERY rare though.

*****************

<<<Still, I question why would this issue not be constant?>>>

******************

Greater than 90% of intermittent "LE" errors in LG front loading washers built AFTER March/April 2008 are caused by incorrect detergent type or too much of the correct detergent.

The CORRECT amount of "HE" (High Efficiency/Low Suds detergent) to be used is:

HE : (2) tablespoons Per Wash

HE 2X (double concentrated) : (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X (triple concentrated) : (1) Teaspooon

The load size of the laundry is not important---the detergent dosage must remain the same.

One the biggest *faux pas* of the LG front load washers---is the blue dispenser cup in the Dispenser Drawer.

There's a MAX line on the white cover.

Many consumers will tell me the something like this...

"I NEVER fill that blue cup to the MAX line---only about halfway".

That's still about 10 times too much detergent---and is nearly guaranteed to trigger an "LE" error/interrupt the washer cycle (about halfway through the cycle at Rinse Spin).

The Soap & Detergent Industry (Proctor & Gamble/Reckitt & Benkiser/Dial etc) also instruct the user to use too much detergent. It's profit-driven.
Use more---buy more.

Overuse of detergent WILL damage HALL EFFECT SENSORS on LG washers with Serial Numbers at (or near) 804KWxxx and older.

For example---804 represents (2008/April).

If your washer Serial Number is greater/newer than 804---the original HALL EFFECT SENSOR did not fail.

Additional problems/complaints occur when the incorrect type or amount of detergent is used:

1) Cycle Run Times Are Excessively Long ( for example--a 51 minute NORMAL cycle ends up taking 120 minutes to end the cycle).
     This is caused by excessive suds---that is detected during the RINSE portion of the cycle---and causes a hidden software program (called Suds Kill Mode) to activate/awaken.
This program *stalls* the Display Clock on the Control Panel.
The Suds Kill Mode essentially *hijacks* the cycle and initiates a series of actions in an attempt to cut down suds.
When Suds Kill Mode is completed---the countdown timer resumes and the "hijacker" has left the cycle to continue on it's merry way.

2) Dingy/Yellowing of *white* fabrics---too much detergent reduces washability.

3) Intermittent Water on Floor complaint---excess suds is being push out of the rear tub air vent during the spin cycle---which will later convert back to liquid (bubbles will "pop") and be seen on the floor---about 1 to 2 cups amount.

4) "LE" Error/Interrupted cycle

5) Although rare---too much suds can reduce the spin speeds---wetter laundry at the end of the cycle (Suds Drag).

6) Musty Odor---excessive sudsing leaves behind soap scum in the tub---which has no odor but *bacteria* loves/craves colonizing/growing on the soap scum. Producing the tell-tale musty swamp odor.

Using the CORRECT amount of detergent drastically reduces this common & annoying complaint.
Using the TUB CLEAN option every 4 months---with Tide Washing Machine Cleaner---keeps scum & bacteria from building up.

Tide Washing Machine Cleaner is...

1) Powdered Bleach

2) Powdered Scum Remover

3) Fragrance







« Last Edit: February 19, 2013, 12:43:46 AM by john63 »

Offline jpiezo

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Hello John63, thank you for your reply.

We use HE detergent, however we do fill to the line on the small cup recommended by the mfg. I have not seen heavy suds in our washer in a long time. I did have to replace the bearing due to over sudsing a few years back. I also have questioned whether this seemed to start about that time.

This machine was manufactured around 2002. It is an older model.

Because my wife is ready to buy a new machine (which we can not afford), I am tempted to purchase the PCB, wiring harness to the motor, and stator and see what happens from there. I figure those parts would cost about $300.00 while a new machine is near $900.00, yet I don't like ordering and replacing parts that are not necessary. I wish this could be narrowed with basic diagnostics. Yet, being intermittent makes that more difficult.

Thank you again, I look forward to any further guidance.

Offline john63

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I'd do the following first...

1) Tub Clean cycle (follow directions on package of Tide Washing Machine Cleaner)

2) Wash/do laundry using the *correct* amount of detergent (not the directions on the detergent bottle/box).

3) Laundry whites will be whiter & the "LE" error should not occur.

4) If the "LE" error returns---replace the WIRE HARNESS that runs/routes from the HALL EFFECT SENSOR to the base of the washer (about 14 inches length).

The MAIN BOARD/STATOR/ROTOR are not the cause/culprit.

Lastly---the MAX word that is on the blue cup---the bleach cup---the liquid fab softener cup---are *really* the DISPENSE levels for each cup (not MAX measuring indicators).

When liquid reaches/fills to the word MAX---it will self-siphon at that point and enter the DISPENSER HOUSING.

To test this---remove the blue cup and fill it with water at a sink faucet to *just above* the word MAX.
The liquid in the cup will begin to drain/empty from it.

Good Luck
« Last Edit: February 19, 2013, 01:21:08 AM by john63 »

Offline john63

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jpiezo

Disregard testing the BLUE CUP/MAX line.

Your washer is a REAR CONTROL model---not a FRONT CONTROL PANEL model.

REAR CONTROL models do *not* have a *slide-out* detergent dispenser assy. Instead---it's located at the top left side of the washer and has a flip-lid on it.

Everything else applies to your washer though (detergent quantity/symptoms/possible wire loom damage etc..)

Try the 4 steps that I outlined above...

John




Offline jpiezo

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Hi John63,

First off, thank you very much for your support and answers! This issue has been eluding me for a long time, my wife is at whitts end since it always happens at the "wrong time". Such as when all the sheets are off the beds and she wants to use some of these again rather than rotating with others.

I will try replacing the lower harness section. I do happen to have that piece, which I didn't replace the last time I had the machine open due to it appearing fine. The bent and tied section in the plastic bag is above this section, and the entire wiring harness for the whole machine is approximately $55.00 I'm wondering whether I can cut all the zip-ties and remove the stator and hall sensor wires from the loom and replace those pieces only? I'd hate to ruin a harness, by disassembling, yet no others need replacing and require more work to reconnect them all.

The one thing that does jive here is that the machine definitely makes more noise and shakes far more than it used to. Therefore, the wires could have been damaged within the insulation without any visual sign. I've never thought about this...

One a separate subject is the shaking and noise. Why would this increase so significantly? Is this a logic self-balancing issue, or do the drum isolators (shocks) just wear down? The drum isolators don't have much to them, inner plunger and outer housing. I'm wondering if they were replaced, whether the machine would be as quiet as it was when new. We used to demo it to friends because it was so quiet, now it is embarrassingly much like a top loader.

Thanks again,

Jpiezo

Offline john63

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<<<I'd hate to ruin a harness, by disassembling>>>

**********

If you have the entire wire harness---and only wish to install the section of it for the Hall Effect Sensor and Stator connections---this will *not* damage the larger harness by separating it.

The small/short Hall Effect Sensor/Stator harness part number is: 6877ER1016B

****************

<<<One a separate subject is the shaking and noise. Why would this increase so significantly?>>>

****************

If this washer is on a concrete floor---and was at one time smooth during the spin cycle---but now periodically GROWLS and inexplicably shakes/wobbles from time-to-time...

That is a symptom of a pulled/damaged wire in the harness (it can also be a symptom of a failing Hall Effect Sensor---if it's the original sensor---not the newer one).

Imagine setting the cruise control in your car at 60mph.

Initially the car performs flawlessly---but then begins to significantly slowdown below the set speed---then accelerates aggressively to maintain correct speed---back and forth in an odd jigsaw pattern (excessive speed variations).

Although this in reality CANNOT actually occur in an automobile---it's a good example of trying to explain a symptom.

If the WIRE HARNESS has a failing/pulled/damaged wire to the Hall Effect Sensor---the data feedback from the sensor to Main Board would be constant/accurate one moment---and suddenly non-existent the next.
The Main Board cannot reliably maintain correct tub speed (rpm) nor track other sensor input.
The washer behaves in a bizarre manner---especially during spin.





Offline jpiezo

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Ok,

I have the last 12" section of the harness and have ordered the entire harness. I will replace those wires between the pcb and stator/hall effects sensor. As for the vibration, it seems to be more a lack of self-balancing rather than motor speed. The motor spins at perfect speed when running the diagnostic, as well as with lighter loads. It is with towels, jeans and other items that will locate at one section that it just doesn't isolate the vibrating motion as it used to. This is why I am thinking the little shocks may not be working as well after nearly 10 years. When I replaced the drum bearing I looked in these and noticed that it is a plunger in a housing, yet can't remember if there was a grease substance that could be replaced? To replace them all would require more dis-assembly compared to replacing the motor harness.

First things first. I will work on the wiring and correct the LE error, hopefully this will also take care of the vibrations when the wires to the hall effects sensor are replaced.

Thanks again,

Jon

Offline john63

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It's not necessary to replace the entire harness---only this one...

The small/short Hall Effect Sensor/Stator harness part number is: 6877ER1016B

*********************

<<<The motor spins at perfect speed when running the diagnostic, as well as with lighter loads. It is with towels, jeans and other items that will locate at one section that it just doesn't isolate the vibrating motion as it used to>>>

*********************

If there's a partial break in the wire harness---think of it this way...

During a test cycle (with no laundry/weight in the tub) the tub assy does not wobble/shakes as much.
Therefore---the wire harness does not move/bend/flex as much either---and the sensor input from the Hall Effect Sensor to the Main Board was not interrupted during testing (no problem detected).

When a heavy load is in the tub---the tub bounces around much more noticeably.
Therefore---the wire harness is bending/flexing/being pulled significantly more than when the tub was empty---that's when a compromised/nearly severed wire within the harness will begin to "show itself" as a problem.

*************************

<<<This is why I am thinking the little shocks may not be working as well after nearly 10 years.>>>

*************************

Yes---the DAMPERS will have some wear & tear after ten years---but will *not* cause an "LE" error---ever.
Replacing them is your perogative/option---but you are also correct with this...


----->"First things first. I will work on the wiring and correct the LE error"<----


Good Luck :)



« Last Edit: February 19, 2013, 10:45:25 AM by john63 »

Offline jpiezo

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Hi John63,

I just got the time to replace the bottom section of harness, put it all back together and started a load. It went to LE after about ten minutes. The whole harness is on order, I am really tempted to order the stator and PCB and replace all pieces. Not because I like to replace parts irresponsibly, but because I have had it open so many times. I've replaced the hall effects sensor two times. Have taken continuity checks of the wires (My Multi-meter won't do resistance), have inspected all connections to ensure no corrosion as a sign of poor connectivity. My wife is now religiously using two tablespoons of soap.

And still I can't wrap my head around the fact that the drum turns just fine when starting the load. Often once it "decides" to work again, it might go two weeks before pooping out again. This is frustrating. I sure wish there were a true diagnostic beyond the 12 step process which has always done as it is supposed to going through each step.

Thank you for your guidance,

Jon

Offline john63

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<<<I've replaced the hall effects sensor two times.>>>

********

When replacing the HALL EFFECT SENSOR---it's *very* important not to break/damage the plastic *tabs* on the STATOR.

The Hall Effect Sensor *snaps* onto these "tabs"---and is held in position this way.

On your washer---there are four tabs---one on the inner part of the Stator and three on the outer part of the Stator.

If the "tabs" are damaged---the Hall Effect Sensor will not remain in the correct position during a cycle (moves/changes position)---and will trigger an "LE" error (and sometimes a growling/grinding noise).

If those tabs missing---a new STATOR is needed.


Offline jpiezo

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I finally broke down and purchased the controller board, the LE issue has gone away. Now I am debating swapping the new stator and harness which were replaced prior to the controller board and returning them. They were replaced and the LE error kept coming back intermittently.

Also, with new harness, stator with hall effects sensor (third one since the issue began) and controller board, the machine still spins with more wobble than when it was new. It seemed to do more self-balancing when it was new. now it goes back and forth slowly as though it is trying to balance the load, yet then starts the spin and shakes a little. A little does means not knocking or moving the machine across the floor, yet too loud to watch tv in the next room with the door open to our laundry. The ball sensor seems fine, however I am not sure how to actually test it to make sure. The one test that has worked is seeing the machine stop with an uneven load error when washing heavy rugs. However, when this happens the machine gets really loud and truly shakes.

This message is mostly for follow-up as others can learn to replace the controller board when all else fails. I kept going back to the hall effects sensor because it is said to be the most common cause, then the harness and all say "rarely the controller board".

Thank you very much for your advice and guidance John63!!!!

Offline domain

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As john63 reminds us, a new HALL EFFECT SENSOR dated after 2008 with a RED DOT on it, denotes a updated sensor. I personally have never replaced an UPDATED sensor due to failure. If you wanna simply check the ball sensor and circuit, lean the machine back around a 45 degree angle and press power. It should show up "Be" as in ball error  very shortly. That is a test I use, but may not be bullet proof. O0

Offline john63

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<<<I finally broke down and purchased the controller board, the LE issue has gone away.>>>

***********

A *rare* case of an intermittent/failing MAIN BOARD----in which an "LE" error occurs (rather than a "0" on the Display Panel).

**************

<<<Now I am debating swapping the new stator and harness which were replaced prior to the controller board and returning them.>>>

***************

Definitely return the STATOR---but not the Wire Harness.

*****************

<<<Also, with new harness, stator with hall effects sensor (third one since the issue began) and controller board, the machine still spins with more wobble than when it was new. It seemed to do more self-balancing when it was new. now it goes back and forth slowly as though it is trying to balance the load, yet then starts the spin and shakes a little. A little does means not knocking or moving the machine across the floor, yet too loud to watch tv in the next room with the door open to our laundry.>>>

***************

If the washer is older than 2009 and on a *wood* floor---this is typical.
TRUE BALANCE technology---used on 2009 & newer LG washers eliminates this condition.

Lowes/Home Depot sell *ShakeAway Pads*---four dense square rubber pads---one for each corner of the washer legs.

Reduces noise significantly---but not shaking.

*****************

<<<The ball sensor seems fine, however I am not sure how to actually test it to make sure.>>>

******************

I've only replaced *one* Ball Sensor (early/primitive version of vibration monitoring) which failed from water contamination---caused by a leaking hose.

The Ball Sensor is known for triggering *nuisance* "UE" errors---due to it's location/proximity to the Tub Assy(especially on wood floors).

The Ball Sensor Bracket can removed/discarded---and the black-color square-shaped sensor itself can be attached directly to the back of the washer in it's original position/orientation.

Drill 4 holes in the back the washer (12 oclock/6 oclock holes and 9 oclock/3 oclock holes)---use zip ties to secure the Ball Sensor onto the back sheetmetal---firmly.








« Last Edit: March 25, 2013, 12:41:03 AM by john63 »

Offline Robert Spendlove

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One troubleshooting tip that has worked for me  (3X now).


I've replaced my hall effect sensor 3 times now, in 9 years.   I now have one of the 2002 model sensors with the red dot so I hope it's my last one.  This has held true each time, so I think it's pretty acccurate, but it may just be a coincidence... in other words, your mileage may vary.



Drain the water out of the tub to reduce resistance.
               (I've sucked it out with a shop vac.  then opened the filter with the shop vac nearby to suck the water out of it as I break the seal on the filter.)

Make sure it is plugged in.

Make sure it is OFF.

Give the drum a good spin, it should come to life just as if you've pressed the power button.  If it does not, your hall effect sensor is bad.




Like I say, this is not a foolproof test, but has held true for me through 3 hall effect sensor replacements.     Good luck.

 

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