Admiral (AED4475TQ0) won't Heat: How do I check the Timer

[rockinrobin]

Admiral Electric Dryer won't Heat and it's only 3 Years Old.
Thermal Cut-Off Fuse & both Thermostat's have continuity/ohm's, replaced Heating Element but didn't fix the Heat issue.
The Timer (P/N 8299781) has a combination of Cycle & Heat Selection's (doesn't have a separate heat selection switch).

I need assistance on how to check AC Voltage on the Wire that runs from the Timer to the Element and the Wire that runs from the Drive Motor to the Element. I'm thinking that the Timer wire connects to the High Limit T-Stat which connects to the Element (Left Terminal) and the Drive Motor wire attaches to the Element (Right Terminal).
Please let me know if that's correct or incorrect.
 

[tgoods]

Check for 240vac at the terminal block.  Check for voltage drop at the timer with the dryer running.  Check for voltage between the red and black wires, 240vac means the timer is bad.  Check for voltage between the red wire at the terminal block and the element.  If you get 240vac it means the motor switch or the connecting wiring is bad. I've attached the schematic.

[rockinrobin]

Check for 240vac at the terminal block.  Check for voltage drop at the timer with the dryer running.  Check for voltage between the red and black wires, 240vac means the timer is bad.  Check for voltage between the red wire at the terminal block and the element.  If you get 240vac it means the motor switch or the connecting wiring is bad. I've attached the schematic.

Thanks for the info.
I have correct AC Voltage on the Electric Chord that connects to the Terminal Block.
Question's:
Q1) I check for AC Voltage with Dryer ON (or OFF) on the Black & Red Wires coming out of the Timer or at the Terminal Block (not the wires on the electric chord)?
1a) If 240 VAC then Timer is bad?
1b) If 120 VAC (or less or none) then Timer is Good?

Q2) Check for voltage drop at the timer with the dryer running.
2a) Which Wires do I check on the Timer?
2b) What reading before Voltage Drops?

Q3) Check for voltage between the Red Wire at the terminal block and the Element. If I get 240 VAC then the Motor Switch or the connecting Wire is bad.

Q4) I read on another website that if I get 120 VAC on the High Limit T-Stat (Red Wire) and Element Housing (Ground) then the Timer is Good. If I get 120 VAC on the Element (Red Wire) and Element Housing (Ground) then the Motor Switch is Good. Do you agree or disagree?

[tgoods]

Q4, that's a good test if you disconnect a wire from the element.  Wherever there is an open in the circuit is where you'll find the voltage drop.  The timer needs to close the circuit between red and black.  If it's open, you'll read 240vac, if it's closed, you'll read 0.

[AppTek]

Personally, I prefer to run these tests with the dryer unplugged/breaker turned off.  Timer terminal BK and R appear to be the switch for the element (according to tgoods diagram... thanks)  With the power to the dryer disconnected, set the timer to any setting where there should be heat ( I usually set it in the timed cycle at about 40 minutes) and check for continuity from BK to R. If you have continuity then the switch in the timer is ok.
Then ( with the dryer disconnected ) check the motor switch at contacts 1 and 2. Should be normally open. Use a screw driver to carefully close the centrifugal switch and check again. Should show continuity on your meter.
I sell retail parts and customers always ask how to do this or that. First thing I start with is "Unplug your appliance first...."