GE Refridgerator compressor not running

[rego]

Model: GTS22UBMBRWW
Found this fridge at room temperature evap and cond fans running and compressor not.   Unconnected the molex by the compressor (while power still connected at wall) and plugged back in and compressor took off and started cooling things down.  Unplugged the fridge from the wall and plugged back in and waited    both fans on no compressor.  Unplugged the molex and reconnected and again good to go.
 
Am I correct in thinking the mother board is bad?  The unit is running and it's a property mgmt. service call so they want to do the wait and see approach.  My thinking is it's only a matter of time if not after the first time it cycles off that it will not kick back on.  I did clean the coils while I was back there but they were in good shape and don't think it's a overheat problem.
 
Thanks for any thoughts!

[bigbuck]

Sounds like the mother board to me.

Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2

[domain]

To be honest, does not make any logical sense to me. How can ANY part be thought of to be replaced without simple trouble shooting. Either the power is there or it is not. Connecting or unconnecting should have no adverse affect on compressor operation. Ptc Starter ohm ok? Voltage at comp when not running? This should be simple. 

[rego]

Yes all check out including thermisters and heater circuit.  That is why I am going with my gut feeling with the mother board.  Just looking for some thoughts to see if my "guess" is right or if someone had a knowledge of why it would jump start just by unpluging and re-plugging.  It leads me to think the board's logic is bypassed by what I did for some reason...have no idea how and would love to know why.  I don't like part swapping so looking for information as well as if I'm on the right course.

[rego]

Forgot to say...no voltage at compressor and not running which is how I stumbled on the reconnect "jump" start to it during my troubleshooting.  Thought maybe a loose connection.   No tech sheet or wiring diagram on unit to trace the circuit.
Any thought's as to why and if I'm still on the right path would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You, Big Buck and do you have any ideas Domain? 

[Brent@CanBC]

As you all know, these boards have relays on them to send power to the compressor.   Same with on the EOC boards on ranges.   The boards input tells the compressor relay to close, and the contacts in the relay are the problem.   No power to the compressor, no start.  Brent@CanBC

[rego]

   Was my thinking.  Thank's Brent!  Now I'm really interested in the "jump" start method.  My thought is I just bypassed the relay or something smarter than myself, which is not hard to do, on the board to kick the compressor on but don't know.
 
Side note:  Have had to put a relay and a few tracers on a hot tub board for a customer because it's not made anymore and no one would touch it but it was with the customer's consent but I can't warranty my work when I start replacing board parts or tracers...not my expertise    I can do it just not very good at it    
 
Oh the hot tub is working great after the repair 2 year's later...still not going there when the board is available...especially in the snow and 17 (F)degrees out...brrrr
 
 

[haroldsappliance]

Faulty board. I see it all the time. Look on back of board and you'll probably see a burn on back side of relay. Regardless Replace board.

[Brent@CanBC]

You said you unplug'd the molex plug in on the compressor.   You mean the "overload/relay" right, not molex plug in on the compressor.   And when you do that, it fires up and runs ok.
 
With the overload/relay "off" do you get 120 volts to the common female, if so that eliminates the board out put, and its (replace the overload/relay on the compressor)  If you "don't"  get 120 volts when the fridge is calling for cooling, at the common, then its  the relay on the board where the 120 comes from, thus replacing the board.
 
I got a jumper, that I attach directly to the compressor leads, common, start, run terminals,  and fire up the compressor to eliminate it as the cause.  Brent@CanBC

[RegUS_PatOff]

bad / loose solder connection on M/B Relay Pins ?
 
 

[rego]

Forgot to update: I got approval to put in board.  New mother board fixed problem.  Old board had some burn marks on soldier joints.