Whirlpool GEW9200LW0 runs but does not heat

[HawaiiJeff]

I have a Whirlpool Duet model number GEW9200LW0.  The dryer runs normally, but the heating element does not get hot.  I have verified the following components are in a normal condition.

Heating element resistance 8.5 ohms
Thermistor resistance 10.2k ohms
Thermal cutoff 0 ohms
Thermal fuse 0 ohms
Control board pin P2-5 to pin p2-6 12k ohm

The manual says to test all the individual items and then do the control board test if everything else tests fine.  The control board test results I got are not in line with what the manual says (<1k ohms then replace thermistor, 6-7k ohms then replace the board).

Any suggestions?

It looks like all the wire connectors are in good shape and all the wiring looks good as well.

Cheers,
Jeff

[AJ]

Hi,

Check the voltage at the back of the dryer were the cord is attached.

If you don't have 220-240 Volts as shown in the photo at this link the dryer could run, but not heat.

http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;pic=1011

Let us know what you find.

[HawaiiJeff]

Thanks for the quick response.

Checked power at back.
246 V and 123 V.

Looks like the proper voltage is going into the machine.

Cheers,
Jeff

[AJ]

Yes, the voltage to your dryer is fine.

These are for sure all ok too.

Heating element resistance 8.5 ohms
Thermistor resistance 10.2k ohms
Thermal cutoff 0 ohms
Thermal fuse 0 ohms

It would not be uncommon at all on this model for a faulty control board to cause a no heat problem.

Your model uses control board part # 8546219

Not a cheap part, but if you order it from the part number link I posted above and it does not solve the problem you can return it.

I replaced a few of them control boards myself in 2012 for no heat problems and I would bet it's also the same problem you are seeing.

[HawaiiJeff]

Thanks for the help.  This was my last try at an alternative solution before I ordered the control board.  I'll check out the link you posted.

Cheers,
Jeff

[AJ]

Sounds good, please let us know if you replace the board and if that solved the problem or if you find another solution, like buying a new dryer or something.

Thanks,

[tgoods]

The only two things left in the circuit are the motor switch and the heater relay.  Check for a voltage drop at the heater relay while the dryer is running.  If you get about 240vac, the relay is bad.

[HawaiiJeff]

The relay does have 240V across it when the heat should be on.  Do you recommend replacing the relay or getting a whole new board.  I have an iron, but I have not done ckt board repairs.

Cheers,
Jeff

[HawaiiJeff]

I did a test where I connected the two wires with the dryer on to verify everything else worked.  Heater came on.  I'm going to replace the relay.  I can always get a new board if I screw up the repair.  Thanks for all the help from both of you who contributed on this thread.

Cheers,
Jeff

[AJ]

Let us know how the relay replacement goes. If it works out for you I'm sure others would be interested in knowing some details like a part number and were you ordered the relay from, thanks. 

[JWWebster]

If the relay is working then you should get 0 volts across it, 240 reveals an open circuit I would think.

[tgoods]

I like http://www.mouser.com/ for electronics parts.

[HawaiiJeff]

Thanks for the link.  I already ordered from Amazon for more money, but not much more.  Part should arrive in Hawaii next week.

Part number is T9AS1D22-12 for anyone else who needs to replace the relay.

Cheers,
Jeff

[shadowofself]

I just did this repair today.  My question is when I took the back off, a clip fell out and I have no idea where it goes.  Any help?

[AJ]

I just did this repair today.  My question is when I took the back off, a clip fell out and I have no idea where it goes.  Any help?

Could you post a photo of the clip?