Author Topic: MHWE200XW00 doesn't spin and never completes cycle or diagnostic self-test  (Read 587 times)

Offline rockinrobin

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If you cannot get into the Service Diagnostic Mode then start the Drain/Spin (or Spin Only) Cycle and it should eventually show an Error Code on the Display (unless it completes the cycle).

I just attempted to start a cycle from the rinse/spin& drain setting; I hit start, door locked and now it is just sitting (15 min now) If I hit pause again the door won't unlock and it will still do nothing. If I hit power, the 26 minutes remaining flashes on the LCD and the door still won't unlock.  I have to power off and manually unlock the door.
Ask the Tech if there was any Fault/Error Codes on the old board.
If not then:
See Page 11 of Tech Sheet (Long Drain) verify Ohm's/Continuity on the Pressure Switch (aka Water Level Switch, must remove top panel), Drain Pump (should read approx. 12.3 Ohm's) causing it to constantly run and Ground Switch.
See Page 3 of Tech Sheet (Drum won't Rotate).  Remove rear panel to check the Belt, Ground Switch, MCU and Drive Motor.
Also, look for a broken or burnt wire when checking part's.
Wiring Diagram is on Page 15 of Tech Sheet.
Photo & Location of Pressure Switch below (also shown in Service Repair Manual)
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-switch-wl-w10239066-ap4434616.html

Offline rockinrobin

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Make sure the pressure switch tube is clear (blow back through it), if it is clear, I think you have a bad pressure switch.  That is why the pump keeps running.

I found what I believe is the pressure switch- W10239066. I will check it out now.
NOTE: After you reconnect the pressure tube hose or the wire harness to old/new pressure switch, you must run the Drain/Spin (or Spin Only) Cycle to prevent it from overfilling with water on the 1st wash cycle.

Offline VeryFrustrated

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Make sure the pressure switch tube is clear (blow back through it), if it is clear, I think you have a bad pressure switch.  That is why the pump keeps running.

I found what I believe is the pressure switch- W10239066. I will check it out now.
NOTE: After you reconnect the pressure tube hose or the wire harness to old/new pressure switch, you must run the Drain/Spin (or Spin Only) Cycle to prevent it from overfilling with water on the 1st wash cycle.

reattached the hose to the pressure switch and ran rinse/spin/drain cycle but it did the same thing it has been doing- door locks; press power and the LCD flashes 26 (remaining time) then I have to unplug to reset the LCD and manually unlock the door.

I also attempted another diagnostic mode test but recieved the same results- 1 5 0 display; LCD goes blank and cold water flows into tub followed by hot water; then the drain kicks on and keeps going until I unplug the unit.  This happens regardless of whether the ground switch is pressed in or not... I don't know if that is a helpful clue but I thought I'd add it. 

I'm now going to remove the back and look for damaged wires around the motor and motor control unit.

I can't thank you all enough for the help this far!

Offline VeryFrustrated

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Took the back panel off and noticed what looks to me to be a considerable amount of dust coming off the belt.... Or is this normal?  Pics attached:


Offline rockinrobin

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Did you check the Pressure Switch (mentioned it in previous reply) for Continuity/Ohm's using a Digital Multimeter?
That is either from the Belt (check rivets inside inner belt to see if they are worn) or Tub Seal is leaking water which causes the bearing's to fail.
Must use HE Liquid Detergent (maximum of 1-3 tablespoons).
When it previously spun at High Spin Speed did it make a loud roaring noise?
If yes, you have a bad Tub Seal & Bearing's which is part of the outer rear tub (below).
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-tub-outer-w10285625-ap4501351.html
« Last Edit: October 16, 2014, 01:08:18 PM by rockinrobin »

Offline VeryFrustrated

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I'm checking the pressure switch now.  I'll report back shortly. 

I've never heard the machine make what could be described as a roaring noise- a slight increase pitch of noise occurs when it spins fast but not a roaring noise. 

The belt does not appear worn to me; pic attached shows grooves.


Offline rockinrobin

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I'm checking the pressure switch now.  I'll report back shortly. 

I've never heard the machine make what could be described as a roaring noise- a slight increase pitch of noise occurs when it spins fast but not a roaring noise. 

The belt does not appear worn to me; pic attached shows grooves.


See Page 7 on Tech Sheet to check Pressure Switch and other part's related to your Long Drain & Drum Won't Rotate issue's.
Looks like it's from the belt (edge of inner side is worn), I would replace belt after you fix the other issue.
Remember to press (push in) the Ground Switch lever/button (or cover with masking tape) before starting the Washer since it sends power to the MCU which sends power to the Drive Motor.
When you start the Drain/Spin (or Spin Only) Cycle then check Voltage at the MCU (see Service Repair Manual - check the lower harness with 2 wires known as MS2 on Tech Sheet Wiring Diagram).
If you have Voltage at MCU then check Voltage at Drive Motor (see Service Repair Manual) and check Continuity/Ohm's on the Drive Motor (Tech Sheet Page 7 - Motor Resistance Test & Tachometer Resistance Test).
If Motor has Voltage and correct ohm reading then check MCU for continuity/ohm's (see Service Repair Manual)
NOTE: When testing for Continuity/Ohm's - You must unplug Washer first then remove wires from the part then test 2 of the terminal pin's on the part.

Offline VeryFrustrated

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I have a multimeter now but I just feel like I know enough about what I am doing to perform these tasks. The one local service guy basically quit on me once whirlpool/maytag tech line told him they couldn't help b/c they didn't have an error code to go off of. I guess now that everything is computerized many repairmen just reply on codes instead of working knowledge of the machines. I appreciate everyone's help but without a youtube or a picture set I don't know that I can do anymore on my own. If you guys have any other suggestions let me know.

Very Frustrated.

Offline VeryFrustrated

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That should read "I do not feel like I know enough..."

Edit to add:

Although I should add that I did know enough to confirm that the pressure switch is working properly. It's the motor tests that I don't feel like I know enough to do.
« Last Edit: October 16, 2014, 05:56:53 PM by VeryFrustrated »

Offline VeryFrustrated

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OK- so, I'm back. I've replaced the MCU now and when I did a test cycle I hit the three buttons, everything lit up and 88 popped up on the display.  I hit the number 2 button to initiate the test and it popped up 0, then hit again and 1, then 5, 4, 3, 2 before going blank then the locked clicked open and closed and the drum slowly rated counter clockwise about 2-3 rotations. Then the water started to flow and it actually ran a full test cycle and shut itself off, popping the lock when finished. I'm running a full normal cycle now to see what it does. Other than rotating the drum a few times at the start, it seems to  be running normally thus far.

 

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