Whirlpool WBM46 - Not cooling & ice build-up

[psychophat]

Hi, our Whirlpool WBM46 refrigirator is not cooling properly . . . I had called in a repair technician which he had replaced some thing at the bottom near the compressor and released the freon and replaced it. Still the problem continues because the evaporator fan motor isn't working and the front panel warning light indicators still blinks again.

I've replaced the "evaporator fan motor" already and it began cooling once again normaly but the front panel "warning light" starts blinking after 6-8 hours, I can only unplug and plug again the fridge to make it work again. I've also poured hot water on two of the air ducts to clear it and water poured inside the fridge and on the hose at the bottom.

Now the pipes near the compressor have 1/2 inch think of ice building up like before, can you suggest what other thing I can do to fix it.

[clindner]

Based on the minimal information the ice on the compressor lines is likely due to overcharge
the original problem stemmed from a defrost control issue

[psychophat]

Is the Bi-metal Defrost Thermostats the culprit?

I was thinking that it may be the one or the computer box but I will try getting a replacement defrost thermostat, hope it solves the issue.

[clindner]

The defrost systems generally consist of the control, bimetal, heater. Any of which can fail. In the case of defrost cycle, the evaporator fan and compressor go into a shutdown mode while the defrost cylce completes. The bimetal is often the cause of failure however not allways.

[psychophat]

"You mentioned overcharge" can that be a cause? I've read that there is an overcharge component somewhere on the refrigirator.

The Bi-Metal has an IC temp which does not have continuity when we ran the tester on it.

I've replaced the Bi-Metal Defrost and the refrigirator defrosted but after a couple of hours the pipes near the compressor began icing again so as the heater in the freezer.

I will turn off refrigirator three hours from now, and try pouring hot water again on the freezer components and the pipe near the compressor to remove the icing.

I will take pictures just waiting for the camera battery to charge up so I show the problem much clearer, thank you again for your help.

[psychophat]

The compressor, I do not know why the repair technician placed that pipe on the side with the valve the service cost me $110.



Below is the part that am referring to that is icing pipe next to the compressor, is this normal. Before the ice build-up was about 2cm thick now it's just 1-2mm its this normal?



This is the Bi-Metal part that I've replaced. The previous Bi-Metal thermal IC on the pink wire has no continuity that's why I replaced it which I think is correct, is it?



Below is the heater component at the freezer section, the ice build-up is now about paper thin compared to before which was like 1-2cm thick.



I don't know what is this part is and what it does but the ice build-up is not very thin unlike before.



The service technician repairs cost around $110 of which I couldn't understand why he placed pipes valves on the compressor. The thing he did was release the coolant and replaced it and that was it, they came back after a week when I called that it still is not cooling. They came back and said the freezer fan motor isn't working and also said that part is out of stock. WTH two weeks and still no fridge. After nearly three weeks total of non-functioning refrigirator I didn't bother to call the the manufacturer service center again because I believed that I got duped $110. The stress and cost of wasted food was uncalled for.

Kindly advise if the things I did before would make it now function normally. The total cost of parts that I've replaced on my own was around $60 comprising of the bi-metal, 2 door gaskets and fan motor on the freezer. I ran hot water on the two holes and I believe water came out pretty fast except for the one that goes into the fridge compartment, though I believe all the water did came out. I haven't used baking soda on the hot water, should have I done that or am I good to go?

[clindner]

Ok the access fitting installed on the compressor is normal for recharging the system. The frost on the line going to the compressor is from too much refrigerant in the system. Remember the amount of refrigerant in a refrigerator is only about 4-6 oz. it is very easy to overcharge and probably could bleed off enough to make the frost go away. Based on the pictures of the evaporator it looks normal and healthy.
As for the bimetal since they are normally open and only close during defrost you would get a no continuity reading on a good bimetal. Normal appearance of the evaporator is equated to the slight even distribution of frost. The frost however should not extend all the way to the compressor. In this case it is slightly overcharged and can shorten the life of the compressor as such.
I tried looking for your fridge in my tech data sheets however if you give me the complete Model no. I might be able to help more.

[psychophat]

Now the pipe near the compressor (2nd photo above) is icing again with about 1-2cm of ice.

You mentioned "too much" refrigerant:

Should I release?
That's the valve on photo #1 correct?
If so how much?

Whirlpool WBM46 IX (series 350, 390, 460 I think) Fridge data:

- User Manual
- Parts List
- Service Manual ( I cannot find online)

[clindner]

The refrigerant cannot be released and must be recaptured into a recovery tank. If the fridge continues to ice up the heater itself may be open or the control is bad. Unplug the fridge to reset the controls.

[psychophat]

I do not have one of those recovery tanks what are my options which I can do by myself or probably borrow.

When the service techinician first visited, among the major things that he did was released refrigirant which BTW smell weird and clouded the kitchen. I don't recall he had a tank when he refilled it with refrigirant.

On the refrigirator description it says "CFC Free Refrigerant" on the WBM46 Product Features this is on the Hongkong Whirlpool page.

[AJ]

The refrigerant cannot be released and must be recaptured into a recovery tank.

In the United State for sure. Is that the case world wide?
I notice the member is not from the U.S.

[psychophat]

I have no clue if what they did is right, I will ask a friend who owns a car aircon repair shop on what he thinks the refrigirator service guy did was right or wrong and if the local laws cover that.

I went to the epa.gov site and was going to make a complaint but its for US only.

Is that refrigirant bad for health because I was in the room when he released it?

[psychophat]

Do you think that a car aircon repair shop has the tank or can they do what you've mentioned to release or lessen the refrigirant?

[clindner]

The amount of refrigerant to be released is minimal, but in the U.S. it must be recovered. Though it may be irritating in a room when released the refrigerant 134A is not harmful. If the laws are different there you need only release a few second burst at a time until no frost occurs on the suction line. wait about 30 minutes between releases, until the line no longer ices up while the compressor is running.

[psychophat]

I got a hold of my friend and said he'll send someone over to do it.

What exact details should I tell him thats needs to be done. I remember they got the works on their car shop like valves, measuring stuff and refrigirants.

Kindly advise on the details like you said oz amount and type of refrigirant that's for our fridge.