Author Topic: Maytag Direct-Drive. No spin cycle, burning electric smell, motor is beyond hot.  (Read 3341 times)

Offline marcuslamont

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I have a Maytag direct-drive washer MTW5700TQ0

When I run a cycle it will fill, agitate, and then stop functioning when it arrives at the spin cycle. Due the way the pump works in conjunction with the spin-cycle it will also fail to drain the water as the motor is not spinning. At this point the motor will just sit there and cook with a terrible burning smell, which smells like burning motor windings, until presumably a thermal protection switch kicks in as the motor never quite catches fire  :)
When this happens I can set the dial to any part of the cycle and it will make a very distinct humming sound when the dial is engaged and nothing happens. I can let the unit sit for an hour or two, the motor will cool down and I can start the beginning of a cycle again (fill and agitate) and it will cut out on the spin cycle again with the aforementioned burning.

Partly out of curiosity but also out of getting tired of bailing water while troubleshooting this thing, right after it stopped on the spin cycle as usual, I stopped the cycle, disconnected the motor from the transmission, and left the pump on the motor, and re-engaged the cycle, motor spun and drained the water.

This would lead me to believe that it could be clutch, trans, brake related but as I dont know much about the motor (for instance whether it might have a capacitor that provides the surge to get the tub moving in a spin cycle situation that could be bad) Im here.

I can manually spin the trans coupling my hand and get the tub to spin (albeit its difficult, though I dont know the ease of proper functioning one either)

Any help anyone might be able to provide on the matter would be greatly appreciated. I can also troubleshoot and diagnose further if it would help narrow down the problem.

Offline dab147315

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Look for object stuck between the two tubs first.Like sock etc.

Offline marcuslamont

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Just checked, nothing in between inner and outer tub

Offline JWWebster

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You must have a sock in that pump:

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Offline marcuslamont

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You must have a sock in that pump

Definitely nothing stuck in the pump, as stated in the orginal post if the motor is uncoupled from the trans the opump operates fine. Plus I did look in there and no signs of blockage.

Offline twayneb

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could be a bad motor just not able to operate under load. try turning the transmission coupler by hand both ways and see if it feels free or not and that should tell you what you need to know.

Offline marcuslamont

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As stated in the original post, I can turn the coupling by hand both directions but the spin direction feels a little difficult. But I don't have anything to compare it to. Should it be very easy to turn or is the weight of the drum significant enough where it would be a challenge to turn?

Offline JWWebster

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Snatch out the tranny and inspect the basket drive cam actuator is what I would do. You have already removed the tub right?
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Offline haroldsappliance

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could be a bad motor just not able to operate under load. try turning the transmission coupler by hand both ways and see if it feels free or not and that should tell you what you need to know.
I agree, sounds like you have a bad motor. Check othe coupler like adviced, isolate motor from transmission and pump. Generally when start capacitor fails the motor will not start. If the motor is rattling or if there is a awkward 5 or 6 second humming sound at start your probably looking at a faulty drive motor.
661600

Offline twayneb

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sorry missed the part about being free to turn in both directions, yes spin will be a little more difficult but if basket moves should be ok .
you could check amp draw on motor (not sure what it even should be not in front of one right now). if you have a amp meter check name plate on motor and see if it's drawing to much,or let it run not hooked to transmission  or pump and see if still gets hot. i still suspect you have bad motor if transmission and pump are free.

 

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