Author Topic: kenmore dryer model 11065964401  (Read 1276 times)

Offline macdaddy1402

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kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« on: August 22, 2012, 07:12:03 PM »
run but no heat condition-------element checks good--operating stat checks good. high limit 1 and high limit2 both check good (all had continuity)    voltage good 110 one side,114other side and 224 across.    changed out even heat control(little pinted board up in console about the size of a playing card) still no change-----run but no heat. note the motor and more speciffically the motor switch cant be very old this is a late model unit and clean as a pin when you pop off the front service panel.  any ideas appreciated

Offline tgoods

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Re: kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2012, 07:29:36 PM »
Check the timer for continuity or a voltage drop at R to BK.

Offline macdaddy1402

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Re: kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« Reply #2 on: August 23, 2012, 10:46:52 AM »
forgot to mention i did check the timer for continuity. there is a little chart on the tech sheet showing where there should be continuity when you have the timer in say timed dry. i cturned to time dry and without the dryer running checked to see if there was continuity between the posts it said there should be continuity and they all checked out as okay. this timer did not have a seperate resistor attached to timer , i mention that because in the past i have had to change out those. it does have two small resistors attached to thetemp selector switch ,could that be a problem? appreciate any input

Offline bigbuck

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Re: kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2012, 11:12:50 AM »
Red from motor to thermostat, pull off thermostat, with dryer running should be 110 - 120 volts, if not replace motor.

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Offline tgoods

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Re: kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« Reply #4 on: August 23, 2012, 01:14:05 PM »
In some cases a burnt contact in a timer will show continuity with a meter but will open when it has heater current running through it.  That's why I prefer to do a voltage drop test.  Test for voltage while the dryer is running between the R and BK terminals.  If you have about 240vac, the timer is bad.

Offline macdaddy1402

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Re: kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« Reply #5 on: August 24, 2012, 10:35:50 AM »
tgoods do you mean i should have 240 volts from r to bk when dryer running

Offline RegUS_PatOff

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Re: kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« Reply #6 on: August 24, 2012, 02:56:48 PM »
...  If you have about 240vac, the timer is bad.
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Offline RegUS_PatOff

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Re: kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« Reply #7 on: August 24, 2012, 02:59:45 PM »
Here's another test...
Set the Dryer to run a no heat Air-Fluff cycle
Check for 120v AC between each of the folowing to chassis (ground)
each side of the Thermal Cut-Off (not the white one)
each side of the Heater Element
each side of the Operating Thermostat
post results
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Offline macdaddy1402

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Re: kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« Reply #8 on: August 24, 2012, 10:54:06 PM »
results of no heat/air fluff test-------thermal-no voltage   operating stat-no voltage heating element no voltage

Offline RegUS_PatOff

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Re: kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« Reply #9 on: August 24, 2012, 11:42:28 PM »
either there's no voltage at the Dryer Terminal Strip L2
OR the (Centrifugal Switch built into) the Motor is bad

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Offline haroldsappliance

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Re: kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« Reply #10 on: August 25, 2012, 04:46:18 AM »
Pull one wire from heat element. Turn unit on heat dry and Find out which line has no voltage. Now trace it back to your open circuit. If your safety and limit switches are good, then your problem most likely will be in either the timer contacts or motor relay. Probably in timer as previously stated. Good luck. Let us know what you find.

Offline RegUS_PatOff

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Re: kenmore dryer model 11065964401
« Reply #11 on: August 25, 2012, 09:18:21 AM »
Pull one wire from heat element. Turn unit on heat dry and Find out which line has no voltage. Now trace it back to your open circuit. If your safety and limit switches are good, then your problem most likely will be in either the timer contacts or motor relay. Probably in timer as previously stated. Good luck. Let us know what you find.
no need, my previous test results shows no power from the L2 side
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