Viking burners not igniting

[michaeljc70]

I have a 48" viking range, about 11 years old. The left 4 burners work fine.  The other burners (grill and 2 regular burners), ignite maybe 5% of the time. I use a lighter to light them usually.

I am going to sell the house and need to fix this.  I looked at the igniter wires, and they look fine (no breaks, nicks, burn marks). I took off an ignitor and cleaned it.  Still nothing.

I am assuming it is the ignitor control module. I think this stove has 2 (1 left, 1 right).  Before ordering it, is there anything else I can do or check?   

I suppose to be REALLY sure, I could disconnect the one on the left, move it to the right and make sure it works there.  Thoughts?

[michaeljc70]

I went ahead and swapped the non-working spark module with the working on and the burners ignited.   I just need to order a new spark module. 

It is somewhat confusing though.  The part is Harper-Wyman 6540S0001 right off the part.  When I look for my range model and spark igniters online, I get some different parts that look different. It is possible in 11 years the part changed looks wise.  I am wondering if I should just look for the part I have, or go with the new part. 

[AJ]

Hi,

When I look for my range model and spark igniters online, I get some different parts that look different.

and what would that model number be?

[michaeljc70]

VGIC485-6QSS.   I think I got it figured out...I just ordered the exact part I took out....Harper-Wyman 6540 and ignored the Viking part number.

I do have a problem though.  One burner keeps clicking even after the flame is on.  I changed the igniter, same thing. Tried a different igniter wire, same thing.  I checked the grounding and connection to the spark module and they look okay.  The other burned and grill light and the igniter turns off fine.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... One burner keeps clicking even after the flame is on.

only one Burner ?
if it was (2), the Ignitor wires may have been swapped ....
Check to see if it's connected to the correct input and output.

[michaeljc70]

... One burner keeps clicking even after the flame is on.

only one Burner ?
if it was (2), the Ignitor wires may have been swapped ....
Check to see if it's connected to the correct input and output.

After playing with it more this is what I see:

Burners are (G)rill (F)ront, (B)ack

Burner F works fine.
Burner B keeps clicking unless all burners on or just F is turned on
Burner G clicks unless all burners on

[JWWebster]

Spark switch for that burner prob needs to be replaced. Yank the wire off of it and see if the sparking stops is what I would do.
Note: Being careful not to get shocked or shorting out any live wires of course.

[michaeljc70]

Spark switch for that burner prob needs to be replaced. Yank the wire off of it and see if the sparking stops is what I would do.
Note: Being careful not to get shocked or shorting out any live wires of course.

I'll give that a try.

Do you know if the 3 wires (all red)  that are connected to the spark module need to go in a particular place?  Since they looked identical and weren't labelled, I assumed where I plugged them in didn't matter (I just noted wire color and put any red wire where there was a red wire before).  Could that be my problem?   

It looks like those come from the spark switch.  Originally I thought they were a power source so I thought it didn't matter.

[JWWebster]

The way that particular Harper Wyman module works is it have 2 inputs (Line and Neutral) for power in and a leg out to each burner. When power is applied they all spark at the same time. This module MUST be properly grounded. Each burner valve has a spark switch and each burner must be grounded as well. If you turn on a burner all them igniters will spark but only the valve you opened will ignite. If you have one that continues to spark then you most likely have a spark switch that has it's contacts fried together. Harper-Wyman also sells the spark switches. I used to sell Harper-Wyman as an authorized Harper-Wyman dealer.

[michaeljc70]

I pulled the wire off the spark switch on the rear burner.  When I turned on the grill, it continue to spark even after lit. The front burner worked properly as before.

My spark module on the right actually had 2 grounds. I made sure to reattach those tightly when I replaced it.  For some reason, the one on the left had only 1 ground.  The one that I am having the problem with now had a ground wire attached where all the red and black wires are, but also one that attached below the wires on the side where the igniter wires are.

[JWWebster]

What about your spark switchs? You checked them? I think you have to yank all of the knobs off and remove some screws under them so that the trimwork can be removed to get to them switches.

[michaeljc70]

I swapped out the Grill and Back burner spark switch and everything was the same.

I left the front burner spark switch since that is the only one that works properly.

Thanks for the help BTW.

[JWWebster]

Some of them fancy stove have differing controls for grill and burners. Sound like to me like yall have some sort of potentiometer malfunction.
I could be wrong. Have been in da past. READ ALL ABOUT IT

Note: It is a big ass file linked by a redneck. Give it a minute to load before freaking out.