Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
91
Washer Repair / Re: Broken lid latch - Frigidaire Washer FEX831fS4
« Last post by AJ on March 01, 2015, 04:17:10 PM »
User YDMAC81 is very rude and asked for their account to be removed, so I removed their login information from our system.
92
Washer Repair / Re: Broken lid latch - Frigidaire Washer FEX831fS4
« Last post by dab147315 on March 01, 2015, 04:16:31 PM »
I am thinking you broke the lid switch since it was working ok before you tried to open it up with the lid lock.What are you thinking? The video also show how to replace the lid switch that is close to yours and should be able to replace just like in that video.As stated in the post of the video i know its a different model and has a different part number of the lid lock switch,but should be able to replace just like in the video with the proper part number that i gave you unless you think its a different problem besides lid switch??
93
Model Number: FGEW3065PWB
Like the title says, used the self clean and now the oven will not heat. From what I've read most of these ovens have a thermal breaker at the back of the oven that just needs to be reset but I cannot locate one for this oven. Anyone have any idea if this model has one and where it is located? The only thing I see per the parts list is Thermostat, cooling fan, 105 deg. Thanks.
94
Dryer Repair / Re: Maytag Bravos Gas Dryer - No ignition
« Last post by sshaw1.1 on March 01, 2015, 04:11:31 PM »
Well Folks, thank you much for your feed back, it was most appreciated.  So the answer to the 64,000 dollar question, was.......a bad regulator!  I changed out the gas valve assembly and it fired right up.  The valve was $90.00 which was pretty reasonable.  I had to wait a couple of weeks for it to come in as the place I ordered it from had a pretty liberal return policy,....just in case it wasn't the valve.  As soon as I get an anti tamper bit for the valve, I will open it up to see if it was the diaphragm or the spring that went bad. I'll report back when I know for sure.  Thanks everyone for your help.

Steve  :cheers:
95
The two screws that attach the console to the washer were rusted and the phillips head of the fasteners stripped while trying to remove them. Drilled a hole in each screw and used a screw extractor to remove.
I was able to blow into the hose which didn't seem to be clogged. With the tub filled with water, I blew into the hose and saw the air bubbles rise in the tub. I was also able to feel the air pressure escaping from the hose. Reconnected the hose and the water was still overfilling.
Ordered a new water level switch.
What I should have done, is blown into the switch and listened for the click to test the switch. Unfortunately I didn't have the service access key to completely take the washer apart and remove the hose from the opposite end of the switch and I didn't have any spare hose with me.

As an engineer by trade, I like to have available to me all possible documentation. According to the repair parts list for this particular washer, the following documents are available:
LIT3348445 Wiring Diagram (I have this document)
LIT3976333 Tech Sheet  <----
LIT3948597 Installation Instructions (I have this document)
LIT3955123 Repair Parts List (I have this document)

Hence, that is the reason I was requesting the tech sheet.
What's strange, the same day I was working on this particular washer a tenant called and told me they were cold and the heat wasn't working. It's a forced air system and it seemed to be an intermittent problem. Did some diagnosis and it turned out the pressure switch in the Goodman unit was behaving erratically. Replaced the pressure switch and the heat has been working fine ever since.
96
Washer Repair / Re: Broken lid latch - Frigidaire Washer FEX831fS4
« Last post by YDMAC81 on March 01, 2015, 02:14:52 PM »
That was not the question. Already used this video to remove front of washer.
The rest of the video applies to a different model.
Any other replies appreciated.
97
Washer Repair / Re: Kenmore HE4T F11 Code
« Last post by LowSL2 on March 01, 2015, 12:56:02 PM »
Check the motor windings. Should be around 6 ohms. And the tachometer winding should be near 110 ohns.
98
Dishwasher Repair / Re: Kitchenaid Dishwasher no lights, no noise, dead.
« Last post by Dishwasherfixer1 on March 01, 2015, 12:06:37 PM »
Great, thanks for the help.
99
Dishwasher Repair / Re: Kitchenaid Dishwasher no lights, no noise, dead.
« Last post by AJ on March 01, 2015, 11:57:37 AM »
We don't sell parts period. We are just a appliance repair forum with a butch of techs who are kind enough to help out.
I don't think you will have any luck rebuilding that board by replacing components.

I looked up your model number and it used control board part # W10084142.

If you purchase it from our parts affiliate link below and it does not repair the problem you can return it.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-cntrl-elec-w10084142-ap4303742.html
100
Kean, you're my microwave hero.  My may tag shutoff last night with this error code and with your outstanding instructions, and 30 minutos of time i was able to get the microwave up and running again. 

Thanks.
Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]