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Nice. You are about 3 hours away I'd say.
Bryan, Just noticed from some of your other posts, you're from WV.  Same here.  North Central WV.  Clarksburg/Morgantown area.

So it seems I'm getting a good frost pattern.  Seems the compressor is running fine.  I'm not sure what else to check.  The PCB board has been replaced.   The fans seem to be running.  Think it might be worthwhile to replace the defrost sensor? 

I cant seem to find a service manual for this particular model.  The one linked above was close, and i found another one that was a lot closer, but i was looking to check the resistance on the sensors and those 2 don't have the same pin layout as mine.  I don't even know if that is worthwhile to check since things seem to be working for the most part.  I hate problems like this that only come up every other day or so.  Makes it almost impossible to troubleshoot.
Typically when you measure the evap fan motor voltage on samsung you have to measure voltage after the power has been reset.  Once it codes out it won't supply that voltage the the fan anymore.  I typically replace the evaporator cover assembly,defrost sensor, and install a 819043 heat probe on the defrost heater.  Samsung is notorius for drain issues causing ice buildup around the fan motor.  I do the sensor because it's a cheap part just in case.  The evap cover comes with a new fanmotor and temp sensor anyway. Plus the foam gets saturated from the ice and water and doesnt seal well from air leaks. The heat probe keeps the drain clear of ice
Woke up this morning to the bottles of water froze solid in the freezer.  When i opened the door, you could see a blast of cold air escape into the room.  Fridge was super cold.

I would get a fridge/freezer thermometer and see what the actual temp is.  Water freezes at 32. the freezer should be around 0
You should basically have a light frost on the entire coil. The fins don't matter.  It's the piping that will frost from the refrigerant. Defrost on most refrigerators with control boards are sporadic.  It is usually determined by average temps, door openings and closings, etc. 
Can somebody post a pic of what a good frost pattern is supposed to look like? 

Woke up this morning to the bottles of water froze solid in the freezer.  When i opened the door, you could see a blast of cold air escape into the room.  Fridge was super cold.  Looked at the frost pattern and there was a very small layer of frost all over the pipes, but not a whole lot on the fins.  My finger stuck to the pipes anywhere i touched them.

Compressor felt warm and was definitely running.  When I unplug it and plug it back in, the compressor fan kicks on, the compressor makes a very faint noise like its warming up or something, then 10-20 seconds later, it is humming like it should be and vibrating a bit to the touch.  When the compressor is on, the fans inside seem to be running as well. 

This has me stumped.  It works fine for a day or two, then dies....Thats why i was wondering if the defrost system might be staying on longer than it should???  Is there a certain point the defrost system comes on? 
I need to fix this washer for a crew of one of the dirty jobs Longlining in the Bering Sea, I feel for these guys. The washer starts after being powered down, door light and wash light go on but after a few seconds they go off and the rinse and final spin lights blink? They stay blinking indefinitely.
Speedqueen stackable LTSA7AWN with SN1408036718
Hope you can help :) I pulled the drain valve and watched it spin, I tested one of the door switches and it was ok, then ran out of time and ideas?
Would appreciate any ideas with this defrosting issue. Discovered our Samsung side by side RS263TDBP is not cooling on the fridge side due to frost build up all around the evaporator, particularly the upper coils (stock photo):

I tried reading around and came upon a service manual. In performing a diagnostic test on the front panel, it showed an R-FAN error, referring to the refrigerator evaporator fan motor/circuit. As a reference, we can hear the fan spinning, louder as frost builds up on/in the fan blades -- I replaced the motor ~2 years ago when we found it was not spinning and it had been fine until recently.

Per the service manual (relevant page below), we opened up the back of the fridge to test the circuit board at the fan switch, and sure enough, the R-FAN (CN76 orange to gray) had no voltage, when it should have registered ~7-11V. The two neighboring pins for C-FAN (compressor) and F-FAN (freezer) both showed 9V, so it seemed to pinpoint this evaporator fan motor/circuitry.

In disassembling the fridge, the fan seems to spin when connected to a ~9V DC source, so this was consistent with our being able to hear it spin loudly as frost build-up impeded it. So according to the service manual flow diagram, it sounds like it may be the circuit board ("Main PBA") that's problematic? I see it's a bit pricey (part# DA41-00670B), so wanted to confirm it's the culprit...

I see in the service menu, there's a capability that allows a Forced Defrost cycle, which we performed. This showed the heater was working -- when we placed our fingers on the coil, we could feel the heat. It also had continuity during a multimeter test. This seemed to suggest the evaporator heater was fine.

So then we followed the service manual to the defrost sensor (temp sensor?) at the main board:

When we tried to measure the voltage across the R-DEF SENSOR (CN40 purple-gray pins), it should have measured 2-4V, based on the temperature measured -- for example, per the manual reference chart 2.6V would correspond to ~40 Fahrenheit and 11k Ohms, whereas in several measurements, we kept either getting ~0 or ~0.8V. Unfortunately, when we moved the multimeter to the neighboring pin (F-DEF SENSOR, or freezer defrost sensor), it also seemed off, showing either ~0V or ~2-2.5V. I tried measuring during both the Forced Pull-down (compressor/fans on) and Forced Defrost (defrost for both refrigerator and freezer) modes. I'm not sure if we measured incorrectly, or if the board was giving us a bad reading?

Just to summarize, the diagnostic menu shows R-FAN error, suggesting the evaporator fan motor and/or its associated circuitry. The fan itself is functional, but the pins powering it on the circuit board show no voltage, so it seems it may be the board itself. At the same time, I'm seeing strange measurements on my defrost sensors.

If anyone might have any ideas, would much appreciate it. Thanks!
Chit Chat / Re: ge combo washer tranny repair
« Last post by olyteddy on August 20, 2016, 10:15:03 PM »
would these parts apply for model number GUD27ESSJWW?
They should. Part number for the 27" is WH45X24614
Chit Chat / Re: ge combo washer tranny repair
« Last post by rbmappltech on August 20, 2016, 09:47:30 PM »
would these parts apply for model number GUD27ESSJWW?

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