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91
I forgot to attach the pages so here they are.
92
Thanks for your responses.  I can get my hands on a clamp on amp meter.  The question I have is what wire do I clamp it on.  I have attached 2 pages out of the repair manual for this model frig which has a schematic and a diagram of the compressor and the wires.  The next thing is what current should I expect to see?

If it is just low on charge why does that happen?  If it is low on charge is it easy to recharge?  I am assuming that I have to have a technician who can get their hands on the R134a material.

 If there is a blockage then how does the system keep running properly.  I would assume that the R134a needs to get back to the compressor.

If it is low on charge is that clear to be able to diagnose over it being a blockage or is it a hit and miss?  I don't want to have someone come out to charge it with R134a and then find out it is a blockage.

I have no idea what it would cost to have someone come out and give it a charge.  but my guess is well over $100 and maybe more in line with several $100.  I live in northern NJ so tech visits can be expensive.

At the end of the day if it makes more sense for me to just go and purchase a new frig then I will do it.  I don't want to end up spending and spending money on this only finding out after spending it all that I need a new system.

Thanks for your help and guidance on this.
Rob
93
Dryer Repair / Re: Samsung dv338aew/xaa dead no power
« Last post by rockinrobin on October 21, 2014, 10:13:59 PM »
Thanks that helps! I just wish they would tell me what the power should be going to the Sub pcb.
You should be getting 120 AC Voltage on CN1 (Brown & White Wires and/or Brown & Yellow Wires) of Main PCB which sends power to Sub PCB (see page 4 of Tech Sheet): You may need to press the power button to test/verify voltage on either set of wires.
Unplug dryer and verify Ohm's on Thermistor CN2 (Blue & Red Wires) of Main PCB: Must set Multimeter to 20k Ohm's and remove CN2 wire harness from Main PCB to verify ohm's.
Unplug dryer then remove wires from Door Switch to verify continuity/ohm's between COM & NO and COM & NC (if no continuity on either set of terminal pin's then press door switch to check again - see page 5 of Tech Sheet): Must set meter to lowest Ohm setting to test terminal pin's on Door Switch.
Also, see if your getting power to the Door Switch on either COM & NC or COM & NO (power shuts off when door is open on one set of wires).
Look for any burnt marks on both Boards (either near the connector or on the wire harness).
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Dryer Repair / Re: Samsung dv338aew/xaa dead no power
« Last post by 76comet on October 21, 2014, 06:59:15 PM »
I just ordered both boards I'll try the main pcb first and check the power coming out of it, then post my findings on here for everyone else.  if I remember to that is. Boards will be here in a week or two
95
Dishwasher Repair / Re: LG Dishwasher not so hot
« Last post by Diyeng on October 21, 2014, 06:32:05 PM »
Parts ordered, plus a few of the upper tray rollers. So these newer parts are now turbo charged (exaggerated) and should see an improvement on cleaning? Other half often complains of dishes not being spotless, so I hope this upgrade will be worth it. Have read about techs showing up and asking "why did you buy an LG?". Good deal back then but time will tell...
Thanks again, will update once installed.
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Dryer Repair / Re: Samsung dv338aew/xaa dead no power
« Last post by 76comet on October 21, 2014, 06:25:51 PM »
Thanks that helps! I just wish they would tell me what the power should be going to the Sub pcb.
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Dryer Repair / Re: Samsung dv338aew/xaa dead no power
« Last post by rockinrobin on October 21, 2014, 05:32:16 PM »
Here's the Tech Sheet to help with troubleshooting your issue
http://www.pcrichard.com/images/promos/DV407%20Fast%20track%20R6.pdf


Maybe someone else will have the Service Repair Manual!
98
Chit Chat / Google Adds a USB Key Option to Two-Factor Authentication
« Last post by AJ on October 21, 2014, 05:15:05 PM »
Had looked at getting one of these USB security keys before as I could use it with my password manager program, but I never did get one.

Today when I read that I could now use a USB security key with my google account I went ahead and ordered a few.
One for each of my keychains and one to put in my safety deposit box at the bank.

I'm probably more paranoid then most when it comes to security, but it helps me sleep at night. :D
I have had my google account for many years and I have a ton of stuff tied to it.

When I got my new Android phone a few weeks ago the sales lady handed me my new phone after she activated it and asked if I already had a google account set up. Of coarse I did. I signed into my google account and instantly received a text with my 2 step verification number.

When the Verizon sales lady seen that she says, "oh, they (google) must think we are a hacker, lol...".

Obviously she had no clue what 2 step verification even was.

I have been using 2 step verification with my google account ever since it was a option and I have to enter the code that is text to me a number of times a day when I go to use my google account, gmail, google drive, etc...

Anyway I think this USB security key will be a lot more convenient. Does not seem like high security and convenance usually go hand in hand so I'm really looking forward to giving these USB Security Key's a try.   

Strengthening 2-Step Verification with Security Key

Using Security Key for 2-Step Verification
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I'd suspect sealed system failure. Either low on charge or partial blockage. More so on low charge
100
do you have an electrical meter that you can clamp around one of the compressor leads to check the amp draw. Just going by your current photos you appear to have a sealed system failure.
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