« Last post by hsvdan on November 18, 2014, 08:34:52 PM »
I've always replaced the tub thermostat (part #661566
) along with the blown fuse. Never had the fuse blow again after replacing both. If you remove the toe panel the thermostat is a little round thing pressed against the bottom of the tub. It should be right there front and center, but against the underside of the tub. It will have a solid red and red with a blue stripe wires going to it. It is held on with a spring metal strap that can be a bit tough to remove. Just have to pry it down and out gently.
« Last post by Matttrick on November 18, 2014, 08:04:11 PM »
Hey guys and gals,
We have a Whirlpool Gold Quitepartner III GU 2275XTVY0 which has some issues. It was purchased new in 2009 and recently blew its thermal fuse. It had been running one night and when I went to empty the dishwasher the following morning, there were 2 inches of water in the base of the washer and it would not start up anymore. It was totally dead, so I replaced the thermal fuse. It ran fine for about a week, then the same thing happened. I couldn't tell you at what point in the wash cycle it's cutting off, but it dies and has standing water in the base. I'd replace the fuse again, but what the heck is causing it to blow? Anything I can check without pulling the unit out from under the countertop? I do have a basic multi meter so I can test for continuity if needed. I just want to try and get this identified here soon before I decide to run out next week on black Friday to buy another one.
I'll also note that when I replaced the thermal fuse, it did come with new wires and so those were replaced as well. I had a hell of a time snugging the wires into the connectors. The fit was very tight. Is it likely I just didn't get a good connection? Or is it something else like a bad thermostat or heating element? How can I diagnose it?
« Last post by bagjr387 on November 18, 2014, 06:22:04 PM »
Sounds like either something is jammed in between the tub and basket, or a start capacitor, or the motor.....I suppose depending on things the valves could be humming and not letting water in.
« Last post by beatlebill on November 18, 2014, 05:48:36 PM »
Water does not flow when the machine is unplugged.
Is there a way to fix the sticking relay or does the whole board need to be replaced?
« Last post by Spit on November 18, 2014, 04:30:02 PM »
I was having a problem with poor cleaning. I did some checking and it appeared that the unit was not filling with enough water. I replaced the fill valve and it seems like the water is entering the machine 2-3 times faster, and works much better. this unit is 20 years old and seems to be in great shape. I have read some posts on forums that seemed to indicate that these older machines actually clean better than some of the newer Energy Star models? does anyone have an opinion on that? I am wondering if there is anything that I should check in terms of debris being in the pump..and how I would go about doing that. And I was wondering about the lower spray arm cap and the rubber cap on top of it. How flexible should that rubber be how tight is it supposed to seal to the tube in the center of the lower rack. Thanks Spit
« Last post by bwze on November 18, 2014, 03:46:34 PM »
Washer is a WFW9500TW01. I have had two previous F 35/SUD conditions. First F 35/SUD occurred over a year ago. Replaced APS with no luck, then replaced CCU. Washer worked after this for over a year until I got the F 35/SUD error codes again. Troubleshot again and found the CCU in need of replacement so purchased and replaced it again 2 months ago. Washer worked perfectly until a week ago when I attempted to run the Clean Washer cycle. Clean Washer cycle ends with F 20 error. See below for steps I taken and outcomes for each: All Washer cycles (except Clean Washer cycle):
Clean Washer cycle:
- Every cycle works perfectly with no error codes
- Start Clean Washer cycle
- Washer continuously drains for about 20 minutes and throws the F 20 error code
Steamer Functionality Checkup:Troubleshooting steps for F 20 error code during Clean Washer cycle and Diagnostic Test
- Start Diagnostic Test mode
- Drain starts @ C:00
- Test advances to C:01, drain pump still running, steamer unit activates,
- Test advances to C:02, drain pump still running, inlet valve/s never open, throws F 20 error code
- Identified F 20 error code - "NO WATER DETECTED ENTERING MACHINE OR PRESSURE SWITCH TRIP NOT DETECTED"
- First of all, I performed all of the following tests even though all other washer cycles work appropriately
- Replaced APS, did not fix
- Inspected supply hoses, no kinks or bends
- Disconnected supply hoses and checked for obstructions at filter screens for hot and cold supply and flow, no debris or trash found and water flow checked good
- Inspected drain hose to ensure there is not a siphon condition present, none found
- Removed lower front panel and inspected pump filter cap for obstruction, none found
- Checked Inlet valves at all other cycles, have tested both in cold only and hot only scenario, both are actuating and working properly
- Removed flow valve and checked for obstructions, re-installed in vertical position as found, none found
- Removed back panel of washer, removed APS hose and inspected for blockage or signs or cracking or holes, none found
- Removed trap where APS hose connects, clean and unobstructed
- Contacted appliance repair store and got replacement CCU under warranty, installed, did not fix (I personally would have thought this would have been the problem)
This washer has been such a pain in my you know what...I've already spent over $400 in repair costs. With this recent issue, I'm at my wits end in trying to identify the cause of this problem. It's not a deal breaker because the washer still functions properly, but I can't help but want to know the cause behind it. Does anyone have experience with this type of error code scenario? I would have bet good money that the CCU had failed again, but after changing it once more....the problem is still there. Would anyone happen to have a tech or service manual for this particular model that I could use to test each component with a volt meter?
« Last post by AJ on November 18, 2014, 03:42:16 PM »
This one is kind of close to home.
Officials at St. Joseph's Indian School -- a 200-person boarding school in Chamberlain, South Dakota, that's affiliated with a Roman Catholic charity based in Wisconsin
According to its own financial statement for 2013, St. Joseph's has abundant assets. Cash on hand was listed at more than $122 million in June 2013, an increase of more than $18.5 million over the previous year.http://www.cnn.com/2014/11/17/us/south-dakota-indian-school-fundraising-investigation/index.html?hpt=hp_t2
This is just really screwed up...
« Last post by gregaguilar on November 18, 2014, 03:23:43 PM »
My question is whtether ths despenser on any of the frigidaire afinity f/l washers have any thing to do with water not entering the tub. An e 11 code is slow fill but if water does enter in rinse cycle why wouldnt it enter on any of the other cycles.I was thinking of unplugging unit and unplugin g from wall and attaching a cord to the valve to see if if would let water thru it when test cord is plugged in? I have not checked the valve for continuity but I would think it is good since water enters on rinse cyle, also maybe it is the despenser that is not letting water in if the motor to it is bad Hum what do you all think thanks in advance, I will be doing one soon
« Last post by dab147315 on November 18, 2014, 08:27:04 AM »
« Last post by ranway58 on November 18, 2014, 07:58:36 AM »
Whirlpool Automatic Washer model #WTW4950XW0 has no indicator lights (LEDs) showing and just hums when you press start. Any ideas? or service manual for this model? thanks