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Washer Repair / Re: GE top load washer, no motor inverter light
« Last post by meilrich on November 23, 2014, 01:41:53 AM »
OK - just had another thought. Assuming someone at the factory forgot to solder on the LED indicator (BTW, we bought this washer and a dryer new, from our local Sears store), perhaps the motor and board look pristine because they ARE. What other possibilities should I consider, absent an LED indicator?

 - the Line fuse WAS burned out. Anyone know the fuse amperage rating?
 - the motor and inverter board look fine.
 - the motor spins easily and cleanly, no rough spots or grinding
 - ditto the tub (before I removed the motor). Belt also looks great (some slight wear)
 - I can successfully enter the Field Service mode using the Selector knob, and I can actuate the pump, water valve solenoids and the like. Of course, nothing happens when I enter the test modes for a) slow agitate, b) fast agitate, or c) spin. Does this mean I can rule out the Control Circuit board?

I'm going to bed - it's 11:30 and my wife knows we'll be doing the laundromat routine for another weekend, anyway. :)
Washer Repair / Re: GE top load washer, no motor inverter light
« Last post by meilrich on November 23, 2014, 01:12:23 AM »
OK. Did as you suggested. No spin, no agitation, no noise, no motor movement, no LED indicator light. So, I removed the darn motor (actually fairly easy), pulled off the PC board - and guess what? NO LED ON THE PC BOARD.

I'm attaching pics in case I've somehow gone blind, along with the model tag on the lid, but I don't see it, . Evidently they made a board without any indicator lights??? (the yellow blob on the top and front view, behind one of the transistor cooling fins, is a ceramic capacitor)

Anyway, sadly, I can see no popped electrolytic capacitors, burned resistors, burned motor windings or other obvious or fixable problems on the PC board or motor. I'm guessing one of the eight power transistors that I can see must've died. Too bad.

I'll be ordering a new motor tomorrow (yikes) :(
Dryer Repair / I need service manual for a estate dryer eed4400wqo
« Last post by acopeland on November 23, 2014, 12:46:09 AM »
need a service manual for a estate dryer eed44oowqo
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / microwave arching like a welder!!
« Last post by Tuneup on November 22, 2014, 11:55:51 PM »
While the magic chef microwave is down waiting for parts, I tried an old Samsung out in the garage. I don't remember why it was out their but obviously it had a problem.
When I turned it on, it was arching and sounded much like an arch welder. I pulled the plug as fast as I could, didn't want to touch it!! It was coming from the screen at the end of the magnetron entrance into the microwave cooking cavity, but not in the cooking cavity.
Now that I have studied a bunch about microwaves while trying to repair the magic chef, and believing that I was getting knowledgeable, this comes along and  has completely baffled me.
I tried it again with the outside cover off and heard the magnetron arching inside the wave guide of the oven. Could see the flashing coming out of the door window.
I took it apart and tested all the HV parts with a digital VOM. The Capacitor is good, 1 MF on the label, measures 1MF on the VOM capacitance setting. The transformer has about 0.4 ohms on the primary, about 1 ohm on the secondary and about 80 ohms on the filement to ground. I could have the filement and secondary backwards. nothing to ground anywhere on the highest setting.
The Diode has me wondering. with a 9V battery (9.68V) in series with the VOM. I read 4.8V in one direction and 0.0 Volts in the reverse. All the others diodes I tested were about 6.8V.. Is this a  problem?
The magnetron has no short to ground and measures about 0.4 ohms between terminals. but upon inspection I could see the burn marks from arching off of the end of the antenna to the wave guide.
Is the magnetron the problem or is it a result of a bad diode. And why is it arching?  Scares anyone around it! Or am I completely wrong in all my assessments?
Thanks for your expertise and experience
Washer Repair / Re: Shock absorbers or worse?
« Last post by tgoods on November 22, 2014, 11:37:53 PM »
I think it's bad bearings because of the belt falling off. You have a ten year warranty on the outer tub parts and lifetime on the inner basket. Whirlpool will send all three parts but you may have to get it diagnosed by a technician first.
Washer Repair / Re: Shock absorbers or worse?
« Last post by rockinrobin on November 22, 2014, 10:42:41 PM »
Manually rotate the Basket/Drum to see if it's loose/wobbly (while rotating, look at front end of Basket at the gap/space to see it it's even 360 degrees), if gap isn't even then most likely the Spider has broken located on the rear of Basket (major repair job).  Also, a sign of a broken Spider is if the rear part of Rubber Door Boot/Bellow (next to Basket) has chipped/peeled off.
If it made a loud roaring noise during High Spin then the Tub Seal & Bearing's are bad (major repair job).
Otherwise, do the following:
1) Remove the lower front panel (remove 2-4 screws located at bottom then drop down to release) and look at the Shocks since 1 or more may have separated or broken at one end.
2) If shocks are OK then remove top panel (remove 2-4 screws at the rear and slide top panel back about 1-2 inches then lift off) and look at the 2 tub support springs to be sure both ends are attached.
Washer Repair / Shock absorbers or worse?
« Last post by Fitzpats on November 22, 2014, 10:04:24 PM »
Possibly a dumb question, but a search didn't match what I was asking. I have a Whirlpool Duet GWH9100 washer that I just replaced a belt on as the old one ended up behind the pulley. I now have a loud banging as it goes through a high speed spin. Wondering if it is shock absorbers or something worse such as a bearing or spider arm. I am a novice, so help is greatly appreciated. The belt "walks" along the pulley during the spin, which seemed odd to me. This is for both the new and old belt. Is this a bearing issue that anyone else has noticed or some thing easier (cheaper) to fix? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Also, the banging was there a bit before the belt change but seems louder to me now. However, I don't do the wash nearly as often as DW, so she may say it isn't different than before. Finally, I do have plastic shavings from where the inner tub hit the outer. Thanks.
Chit Chat / Re: Employment
« Last post by AJ on November 22, 2014, 09:51:12 PM »
How did it go finding another tech?
Are the parts in the GE frig I am getting rid of worth anything?

Yes. List them on Ebay or Amazon.  As a general rule you should be able to get about half the cost of new for them.  Make sure you post that your board is a true WR55X10942 replacement board, most the used boards on ebay are not.
Dryer Repair / Re: Kenmore 90 series -- Stops midcycle, with new motor
« Last post by rockinrobin on November 22, 2014, 05:33:57 PM »
I believe the Drive Motor is overheating and would try the following after Motor has cooled off:
Remove the Vent Tube from the Wall (attach a pair of panty hose on the end of tube to catch any dust/lint) and run the Dryer to see if it will resolve your issue.
If it does then you need to have your Dryer Wall Air Duct cleaned/snaked out (if you can't do it yourself then call a plumber).

Otherwise, if it takes several cycles (more than 60 minutes) to dry your laundry then clean out the Lint Filter Housing (that's where the filter slides into).
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