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Washer Repair / Re: Lost Ring in Whirlpool Washing Machine
« Last post by Blaiser on February 05, 2016, 08:52:48 AM »
Based on the info you supplied and model # you can take the center cap off the agitator, it pulls right of the top of agitator and take a 7/16" socket and remove the center bolt - once removed you can pull straight up and remove the agitator, check under the agitator. Once removed check the little slots in the basket tub and see if it is lodged between the slots in the bottom of basket. Unfortunately you will need a Whirlpool Spanning Wrench to get the basket out Part # TB123A/123931 Spanner Wrench Kit ($10.-$20. bought from a supplier that supports this site) and the basket will come out. That will expose the whole tub once the basket is removed - more than likely it will be laying in the bottom of the outer tub shell. Let us know what you find.

P.S. Did you happen to check under the Washer and/or Dryer in case it fell to the floor and fell under the machines? If this makes you feel better - there is no chance it got sucked into the pump with that pump cover that is covering the pump.
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: kenmore 795.69009900 quits,
« Last post by mz3own on February 05, 2016, 06:06:31 AM »
sorry I was wrong.
Attached is the tech book

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: kenmore 795.69009900 quits,
« Last post by mz3own on February 05, 2016, 05:32:55 AM »
it's an LG build fridge but I don't think you have a correct model number
Those lights are showing an error code. Need to get a correct model number and someone should be able to help further
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: Kitchenaid Double Oven Not Heating to Correct Temp
« Last post by mz3own on February 05, 2016, 05:30:22 AM »
I know you said both ovens are doing the same thing. That is what is odd the electronic oven control doesn't share any relays or sensors between the two.
My gut is telling me you have a house power problem or EOC problem and it only happens under load or when you reinstalled the EOC you mis-wired something
The only other thing I can suggest is to hang two amp clamps. One on L1 and the other on L2 and watch them while it preheats and see if you lose amp draw. Should only lose it for a second on L1 when it calls for a different element.
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: My frig is interfering with WIFI, TV and speakers
« Last post by leegundo on February 05, 2016, 12:27:19 AM »
Problem solve; it was the thermostat. Thank you guys for your help!
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / GE JT965 microwave/wall oven combo - uneven oven heat
« Last post by nahoku02 on February 04, 2016, 11:46:14 PM »
I will post my own reply, just in case it helps anyone else.

I first changed the temperature probe, which was cheap, so I figured I wanted to replace the frayed cord anyhow. I got a new oven control board, replaced it (used the existing wires and moved them to the new board). No change. The oven still heats only using the convection element was heating.

I traced every wire on the wiring diagram in the service manual. Since I know that only the bake and broil elements should be on during preheat, and I only got the convection element to heat, I figured something was off in the wiring. Remember, this was the board that the GE technician replaced due to a recall back in 2012. Yep. You guess right. The dude not only charged an arm and a leg for the service, he actually wired it just like the service manual specifies (Y and Y+TR wires are switched) and this is WRONG. The wiring in the service manual turns on the convection element instead of the bake/broil element, which is what I have had my oven working on for the past 4 YEARS!!

Unbelievable. I am ready for a drink at this point.  :rofl:  :cheers:

Anyhow... if you are having issues and it seems to be dating back to the time a technician replaced something in your oven, go ahead and check it...
Washer Repair / Re: Lost Ring in Whirlpool Washing Machine
« Last post by sghead on February 04, 2016, 10:13:57 PM »
sghead can you take a picture of the washer and a picture of the inside of the washer if your not sure what Model # you have, I'm sure we can figure it out. Although you didn't mention it Did you put the Clothes in the Dryer??

Yeah I was dumb. I was looking for a number on the inside of the lid rather than the inside edge of the rim. I'm 99% sure the model number is WTW4815EW1

The clothes DID go into the dryer. I had 2 rings in my pants, 1 was discovered when changing loads from the washer to the dryer while the other ring was searched for in the clothing and not found. The clothes were then put into the dryer (model WED5000DW2). My wife did the checking before the washing machine and before the dryer so this is all second hand. But my understanding is that it was lost before clothes were moved into the dryer. Would it be more likely that a ring gets through a dryer than a washer? My wife is sure it was lost before everything was moved to the dryer but I was not there so I can't verify.

Those model number should be right, sorry about my idiocy in finding the numbers. At this point I would understand if you guys didn't trust me to know which was the washer and which was the dryer  :embarassed:
Let's start at the beginning. First why did you send the board out? What did they fix?
I thought the board was bad because all the elements and sensors appear good.  They said it was a power problem but did not elaborate. 
If the board failed, when did it fail? start, middle, end of preheat? Were you doing an oven clean?
Starting at the beginning I'm not an appliance guy, just a DIY guy.  Both ovens seemed to go at the same time and not heating all the way. 
Both oven temp sensors ohmed out at 1080?
Yes sir, 1080
Have they been changed? Have they been hard wired (ditch the molex connector?)
This is the first problem with the ovens. No work ever done
When it's pre-heating you said it's cycling all three elements on an off? Each element when the board is calling you have 240vac to the element
I tested power at the elements when on pre-heat and had 240v.  Maybe I should wait until it gets hotter and test then?
You have ohmed everything which is good.... but under load something is being lost.
What I would do is set a pre-heat. listen for the relay to click for the element to start to heat. Check voltage, then when the next relay clicks in check voltage there. Keep doing this through the pre-heat My guess is either you are losing the voltage on one of the elements or one of the elements are failing under load.
The puzzling part is it's a double oven and do you think both upper/lower are failing under load.  I will check it out and report back.  Thank you for the advise, it's very much appreciated
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / kenmore 795.69009900 quits,
« Last post by haroldshell on February 04, 2016, 08:36:14 PM »
customer states the unit has been stopping cooling and they have been removing power and have been able to keep it going. Now the unit will not start and 6 and 7 show on the freezer display with the ff display dark. ?????
What was wrong with this refrigerator? :popcorn:
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