Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 7 8 [9] 10
81
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: microwave oven magnetron
« Last post by Tuneup on November 19, 2014, 02:11:31 PM »
I'm not a professional, but do have some electrical back ground. This is the test results of the magnetron;
Using the 40 mega ohm scale, (the highest I have) testing form each connection to the body of the magnetron, the meter (fluke 87) reads OL over limit. completely open, no shorts.
reading between each of the connectors of the magnetron on the 400 Ohm scale, (The lowest I have) it read 0.2 ohms. Even though this sounds OK, and verifies close to the specs, I still think that It isn't a complete test for the magnetron. Every thing else is working and eliminated, and the discoloration on the fins of the magnetron, along with no cooking symptom leads me to feel it is the magnetron.
But this still leaves me struggling with no info on this magnetron, and almost no info on the microwave in general. This is were I don't have knowledge and could really use the help.
Thanks for all your responses
Rex
82
Washer Repair / Re: frigidaire afinity f/l washer no fill except on rin se
« Last post by DaleCaskanette on November 19, 2014, 02:00:19 PM »
there are screen in fill valves if they have lime sand etc in them they will cause this problem
83
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: microwave oven magnetron
« Last post by domain on November 19, 2014, 01:52:11 PM »
Ok ok good. I'd verify mag is not shorted to its case and then suspect mag
84
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: microwave oven magnetron
« Last post by Tuneup on November 19, 2014, 01:33:40 PM »
The fan and cooling run great. I see no hard starting of the fan nor any sluggish starts from sticky bearing or the such. It seems to run perfectly. But the magnetron is getting really hot. As seen on the wiring diagram, the thermo snap disc located on the top of the magnetron, is the unit that cuts the power from too much heat. There is a second thermo disc under the turn table. When either of these disc operate, it complete cuts the power to the microwave. When it cools, the power returns. The cooling fan is moving the air, but the magnetron is creating too much heat. This has been happening for a couple of months now. each time the microwave would heat again (cook) when the power returned, but this last time, the microwave stopped heating (cooking), but all other functions seemed to run as normal after the power returned. Display, fan, turntable, light, etc.
Thanks Rex
85
Washer Repair / Re: Bosch Axxis Won't Start, Door Won't Lock
« Last post by dsmithpdx on November 19, 2014, 01:31:00 PM »
Sounds like a bad door latch assembly

That's my hunch as well.  I guess I'd need this part:

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Door-Latch/00612148/1559966

I have made an appointment for a technician to come out on Friday to take a look at it, as I'm not sure I'll be able to replace that part myself.  It's VERY tight in there, and I can't quite tell how that latch assembly is connected.  I'm afraid to pull/push/pry/twish too much for fear of breaking something else.  Have you ever worked on one of these models?  Do you have any insight into how to replace that piece?
86
Washer Repair / Re: Maytag Bravos MCT Bleach Dispenser keeps Running
« Last post by domain on November 19, 2014, 01:27:21 PM »
That sounds interesting. I always find just a sticky valve. 
87
Washer Repair / Re: Kenmore Elite 796.29272000 Pulsator not working
« Last post by domain on November 19, 2014, 01:25:30 PM »
Any errors?
They will usually do at least one of the modes
88
Washer Repair / Re: Bosch Axxis Won't Start, Door Won't Lock
« Last post by domain on November 19, 2014, 01:22:52 PM »
Sounds like a bad door latch assembly
89
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: microwave oven magnetron
« Last post by domain on November 19, 2014, 01:21:21 PM »
Tgoods, it sounds like the fan may not be running properly if it is cycling on the thermostat? Check the cooling side!
90
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: GE GSS22WGPCWW lights randomly staying on
« Last post by domain on November 19, 2014, 01:18:33 PM »
The switch should be the only thing you should have replaced assuming the door is pressing on to it properly. Nearly all refrigerators want the airflow to stop in one form or another if the fresh food door is open. Your fridge may see the door open and shut the damper, which would not be a problem if the door is closed soon after.
Pages: 1 ... 7 8 [9] 10