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I did ohm it out and all appeared ok. So I should go back to the overload protector, the PTC and a start capacitor? 
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Kenmore Range 79097422901
« Last post by All Brand on April 21, 2017, 05:50:15 PM »
Used turbo burner heard pop trip breaker, now when using burner which is l/f the right front also comes on ??? ??. Right front burner is the triple burner. I cant find any short . I order new turbo switch , but of course back order schematic is a joke . Any ideas ?
Dryer Repair / Re: GE gas dryer model GTDP490GD0WS
« Last post by Thorning on April 21, 2017, 05:48:59 PM »
I have just discovered the problem and it is a difficult one to get at to fix. The GE design uses a broken belt switch down in alongside the motor and this one shorted out. I curse these GE dryers every time I attempt to work on them as compared to Maytags. I will eventually get at it but it is certainly not user friendly  for repairs.
first thing a 3in1 is not recommended it can take out the main board.
You would be better off replacing with a standard ptc and new cap

second attached it the wiring for the compressor.

Third did you ohm out the compressor to see if it checked good?
Dryer Repair / Re: GE gas dryer model GTDP490GD0WS
« Last post by mz3own on April 21, 2017, 05:35:12 PM »
is it plugged into a gfci breaker?
What is the amp draw on the dryer when it trips?
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: 795.72043112 service manual
« Last post by restoreappliances on April 21, 2017, 05:04:12 PM »

Thank you so much. Is anyone else having troubles with the site using Google and Firefox on Windows 10? I have reverted to phone and tablet because of the issue.

Thank u everyone for all your help these past years.

Dryer Repair / GE gas dryer model GTDP490GD0WS
« Last post by Thorning on April 21, 2017, 04:47:25 PM »
I have just been asked to try and diagnose a problem with this gas dryer. It is fairly clean inside.  When the start button is pushed, It will start the drum turning and fire off the gas but will only run a few minutes before it kicks out the 110 volt breaker and of course nothing works until I reset the breaker. It will then run a few minutes and then it kicks out the breaker again. I checked the drum for rotation and it rolls freely. I then took the drum out and looked for a bind in the motor bearings but it also turns easily . I dont see any distress and wonder if I should be looking for a different area that causes this unit to kick off the 110 volt breaker. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
My final diagnostic from my internal notes.

"The unit had an obviously bad main control board.  This unit was replaced with the new Electrolux replacement for the original part number.  Upon install of the unit, the indications of the machine pointed to incompatibility between boards.  The old boards gave a SY CE, the new control gave no error and no lights.  This indicates incompatibility.  So the display board had to be changed out as well.  After changing both boards the unit operated normally.  Parts cost was $238 against $215 collected for the main control.  I decided not to charge for an extra board as their are a repeat customer with multiple properties and it was already a high dollar job"
remove the ice bucket and check to see if the thermistor on the bottom of the ice maker was ripped off. Two white wires. That is usually what causes the issue. shorts out the boards. If you have 12vdc to the display board and the display is blank you need the display. If you don't have the 12vdc from the main to the display you need the main and the display.

I'm kind of bummed I didn't check this out first. 
For some unknown reason, electrolux is not fessing up, if new control board does not solve the problem with the communication error between old display & new PCB under refrigerator, the directions from manufacturer is to replace display board also.  Screw frigidaire.    I price the repair with both boards when giving a quote.

Well this is what it was.  I went back today and installed the display board and it worked.   I actually put the display board with the old board first and it didn't work.  Old display board with new control board and it didn't work.  Then with new display and new control board it worked.  The control board has an obviously blown capacitor.   Then new board had no effect on the display board yet it was outputting the 12v.  There is only one communication wire and there was continuity on it.
   Was a pain.  Yeah not the first time I have been burned with only getting one board on a frigidaire.   

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