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81
@Kean-  :thanks: Your post had me fix my microwave for the cost of 35 minutes and 4 inches of electrical tape. I honestly thought I would have to replace the whole touchpad after taking the whole cabinet apart, and doing so would still have not fixed it as the ribbon cable was at fault. I would have been nuttier then squirrel droppings if I had gone through all of that for nothing. 7 screws, 4 clips, and electrical tape- I would have never imagined.
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Dishwasher Repair / Re: LG Dishwasher not so hot
« Last post by Diyeng on October 21, 2014, 09:50:48 AM »
 
John-
Thanks so much for the detailed explanations and great advice, so glad I didnít push the Buy Now button last evening. Just to be sure, the p/n you provided for the sump assembly comes up as not compatible on APPro. According to the service manual for the 6810 model ďM006 SUMP, ASSEMBLY 3485ED1002BĒ  references http://www.appliancepartspros.com/lg-sump-assembly-3485ed1002b-ap4440788.html Hate to get everything pulled apart and find out the part is one screw hole short.
Also on the guide assembly (aka the Water Inlet, again Repair Clinic has a video) I did have the growling noise described in the Q&A for m/n LDS5811but that seemed to be coming from the sump and sounded like some broken glass, which did happen one morning, and eventually stopped. Didnít see what the advantage would be to replacing the guide.
Thanks again!
 
 
 
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Also just to clarify and give an update, the temp in the bottom of the freezer does not get below 10 F.
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Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: Maytag MGS5870ADC gas oven/stove
« Last post by mmexico on October 21, 2014, 09:18:39 AM »
Anyone have a suggestion for disconnecting a stubborn push on terminal from its post without damaging the control board? 4 of the female connectors were put on in such a way that the open side is inaccessible. No way to depress the center or spread the curled ends. It is up against another device. Would have been too simple for Maytag to have assembled the board with the open side facing out....
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Dishwasher Repair / Re: LG Dishwasher not so hot
« Last post by john63 on October 20, 2014, 10:58:49 PM »
<<< Itís been fine since though my biggest complaint is the detergent dispenser never fully opens due to a poor design with the top tray blocking it. >>>

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Normal---the Detergent Dispenser Cover/Lid---will open to about a 90 degree angle (hits the upper rack)

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<<< some detergent is leftover at the end of the two hour cycle.>>>

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Not caused by the Detergent Dispenser Cover/Lid.

This symptom is caused by a weak Wash Motor

All LDF6810 dishwashers have a flawed Wash Motor.

Symptoms include:

1) Noisy during wash cycle

2) Subpar wash results/performance

3) Detergent residue at end of cycle

4) Intermittent "LE" error (interrupted cycle)

Solution: Replace the Sump Assy (AJH31248604)

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/lg-motor-pump-assembly-ajh31248604-ap4447671.html

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<<< it seems that even after 6 to 8 hours after a wash the inside of the dishwasher is still warm, not hot but certainly above room temperature; is this normal and can the inside retain the heat for so long? >>>

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Normal.

There are 2 points in a cycle in which the heating element is energized/used...

1) Main Wash (about halfway through the cycle)

2) Final Rinse (at the end of the cycle)

A stainless steel tub not only has an attractive appearance---but retains (saves) heat much longer than plastic tubs.
This dishwasher (like many others) has a "thermal blanket" ---surrounding the tub---to further "save" heat from Main Wash and Final Rinse---which will later be used for drying the dishes/silverware etc during the DRY CYCLE.
A small fan motor within the door pulls moisture/steam from the tub

The heating element is *never* used/activated during the DRY CYCLE.

**********

<<<Anyhow, two mornings ago I opened up to empty the dishes having run it the night before and they were still wet. Running another cycle the water didnít get all steamy after half an hour as it normally does but did seem a little hotter than out of the tap >>>

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Difficult to answer that question---without knowing which cycle was selected.
It may be that the Heater began to heat the water for the MAIN WASH portion of the cycle---when you opened the door

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<<<I have an electric HW heater and keep it at 120 degrees >>>

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That's fine---but be aware of this...

On a typical late-model LG dishwasher---If the NORMAL CYCLE is selected...

The software is programmed to reach a "Target Temperature" of 142F

If the WATER HEATER is set at 120F...

By the time water enters the dishwasher---and splashes onto the cool stainless steel tub---it's now about 90 to 100F

The Time Remaining Display on your model dishwasher will *stall* during MAIN WASH and FINAL RINSE---to allow the heating element to bring the temperature of water---to the Target temperature

It takes the dishwasher/heater an average of 3 MINUTES to increase all of the WASH or RINSE water 1F

If the (house) water heater is set very low...

The fill water "loses" heat during entry into the tub...

If the *actual* temperature is 90F...

How many minutes are needed to reach Target Temperature"? (usually never does---defaults and continues onto the next cycle)

This adds maximum run time to *any* wash cycle selected (except newer models with an option to select a QUICK cycle without the DRY CYCLE)

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<<< Question, I measured RD3 pins and with power button off still had 13.25 vac, not a lot but could explain why still slightly warm after 6 hours of wash cycle, is this normal? >>>

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Normal.

Earlier LG dishwashers---do NOT have a Heater Relay.
Yours was built May 2007

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<<< thanks to John63 post figured out in about 10 min >>>

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Good job:)

I'd replace the SUMP ASSEMBLY rather than the Heating Element (comes with the Sump Assy)

I would also replace the Guide Assy...

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/lg-guide-assembly-4975dd1001a-ap4442244.html

When you see it---you'll know why:)

Updates have improved it as well.

Good luck









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Here is my follow up.  I was unable to do it last night.  So the frig has run for almost 48 hours without me touching it.  The top of the freezer temperature stays at about 20 F and does not get any lower.  The bottom of the freezer gets closer to 0 but does not get there.  The freezer is turned all the way up for the coldest setting. I pulled off the cover over the coils and you can see that they are not frosting all the way over.  The top are warm to the touch.  I am guessing that this means the sealed system is no longer sealed and that the best thing I could do is to replace the frig.  But I am open to your thoughts.  See the pictures.  Thanks for the help.

Rob

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Washer Repair / Re: LG Washer won't power up
« Last post by rockinrobin on October 20, 2014, 09:12:52 PM »
Thanks for the update!
May be someone else can use it for reference.
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Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: Spilled liquid on ignitors - Jenn-Air JDR8895AAS
« Last post by AlphaApp on October 20, 2014, 08:49:03 PM »
Thanks!
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Dishwasher Repair / Re: LG Dishwasher not so hot
« Last post by Diyeng on October 20, 2014, 08:22:28 PM »
Thought I would put off until Tuesday but couldn't resist, thanks to John63 post figured out in about 10 min, open heater element. Question, I measured RD3 pins and with power button off still had 13.25 vac, not a lot but could explain why still slightly warm after 6 hours of wash cycle, is this normal? Doubt it would be PCB since it is covered in 1/8 of clear rubber and could probably take a blown from a hammer to crack. Now to purchase the part, may post pics but already a great video on Repair Clinic.
Thanks!
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Chit Chat / Re: Download and try Windows 10 for free!
« Last post by hurtacharles on October 20, 2014, 07:41:48 PM »
They skipped Windows 9 because some programs detect the version of that you are running by the first number. In that case Windows 9 would be lumped in the category with Windows 95/98 and many programs would stop themselves from running.

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