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« Last post by Blaiser on January 15, 2017, 07:18:22 AM »
UPDATE on the Kenmore Convection Oven with the Front Left Ceramic Element that won't lite I replaced the Small Simmer Board ( RANGE RELAY BOARD 316429301) on the back of the Cabinet and everything is back to normal. Sometime this week I pull my old Board apart and find out (God willing) to which relay or diode that is shot and post some pictures. Hoping to hone down on the Exact one.
« Last post by Parak on January 14, 2017, 04:37:39 PM »
A few days ago the drain stopped working entirely (never had issues previously), and I've checked the obvious things so far. Cleaned both filters, checked pump inlet, checked drain hose at the sink drain tee, and so on - nothing to be found there. The pump does turn on, I hear it working as usual, though it might be my imagination/observer bias of it being louder than normal. No water ever makes its way out of the dishwasher to the drain hose, and just pools on the bottom.
Is there anything else I might be able to do before resorting to removing the dishwasher entirely and checking the pump?
« Last post by sailor3333 on January 14, 2017, 11:40:10 AM »
Thank you manden & domain. I think you're probably right about the drain pump but maybe for a different reason.
When I had the pump out for a bench test I noticed the vanes on the plastic impeller were tapered. I didn't think anything of it until I started looking at several pictures of new ones. The vanes on those are more or less rectangular, not tapered. If that's the shape of new vanes then mine is has worn down and its effectiveness significantly reduced. Have you seen these wear down like that?
« Last post by misternil on January 14, 2017, 10:38:25 AM »
I have an issue with the water line which is in the interior bottom rear of the fridge. It keeps freezing and casing the plastic plug to push out of the rubber elbow. This results in water leakage into the bottom of the fridge under the crisper drawer. I can push it back together after warming it up but it just freezes and pops again.
Occasionally the water dispenser will not dispense water but the display still shows an ounce count being dispensed as well.
« Last post by ebby on January 14, 2017, 10:35:34 AM »
First thing you gotta ask is, "Is this fridge getting what it needs to cool??" Check the frost pattern on the evaporator in the freezer. If the frost pattern is little to none, then you either have a refrigerant leak, or a restriction. My experience on some Samsung French doors is the heat exchanger gets restricted, and gives these symptoms. This is because the refrigerant goes into the fridge evaporator first, and then down to the freezer evaporator. When the refrigerant gets low, or restricted, the refrigerant never makes it to the freezer.
If you don't have the tools and knowledge for these types of repairs, it is probably best to call in the pros. Just to test if it is a leak or a restriction requires guauges, hoses, recovery unit, refrigerant scale. . . etc.
Do you know what controls or separate the fridge evaporator from freezer evaporator both are using same compressor is there any switching valve I have same problem my freezer does meet the set point temp and also my display reading wrong temp both in freezer and fried
« Last post by lati_cz on January 14, 2017, 09:59:15 AM »
I have problem with EIDW6305GS1A, it won't start, code 01 flashing on touch panel. Green light "leak detector" on lower panel (toe kick) is on. Any help is appreciated. Thank you Michal
« Last post by Thorning on January 14, 2017, 09:52:25 AM »
The terminal block and the wiring attached to it do not look to be in very good condition. The terminals themselves appear to be damaged or corroded. This situation will require someone to look at it carefully. If the motor is not getting 120 volts as measured from the center white wire to either of the other terminals it will not turn the drum. If the power cord is providing 220 volts then there is another problem such as the thermal fuse which may allow the motor to turn the drum but not produce any heat since the coil is not getting hot. BE CAREFUL .The voltage involved here can be fatal.
« Last post by elgato on January 14, 2017, 09:49:22 AM »
I look that up is that hose long enough to reach into a side x side I looks good might impress the customer like you know what u doing lol
« Last post by johnthegreen on January 14, 2017, 09:16:23 AM »
The original poster's issue of his customer's OE pump issue seems exactly like what I am experiencing with my LG WM2016CW. When it runs without the error, the flow out the drain hose is solid and fast. Every 4, maybe every 6th, maybe every 8th load (no real rhyme or reason) the machine will cease operation and display the OE error code. As I am not an appliance repairman, I am not sure where to start with the siphon method of correction like the original poster described. John
« Last post by AJ on January 14, 2017, 07:38:02 AM »
Not sure what version you seen as I just made a small change to the CAD file a few minutes ago. One part of it just did not look right to me and I finally figured out why this morning.
Anyway uploaded the change to thingiverse and now I think it looks exactly like the FSP one.
I spent a good part of my evening on this part. Between getting all the measurement from the original part with my calipers. Figuring some angles and radius. Writing down the dimensions on my hand drawn sketches and then finally getting to work in my CAD program. I would guess about 4-5 hours, but I'm still very new to all this.
From what I have seen in the CAD forums I visit a pro could have probably done it in a half hour or less. I learned a lot from it though and it would probably take me less then half the time if I was to do this same part again.
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