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The only thing left is the high voltage transformer. Check to make sure the relay supplying power to it on the board is staying on during the heat cycle. Whirlpool has a test for verifying wattage. I can't find it at the moment. Anyone else have it?
Has new capacitor and diode installed any other suggestions ?
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Whirlpool ice maker woes
« Last post by karls on September 13, 2014, 08:51:53 AM »
Awesome, I will do that and post the results. I am currently away from the fridge. Thank you again Maytag Man.
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Whirlpool ice maker woes
« Last post by Maytag Man 6725 on September 13, 2014, 08:49:08 AM »
Unplug your ice maker and jump black and brown wires and you should get water, if you do get water, your icemaker is the problem.
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Whirlpool ice maker woes
« Last post by karls on September 13, 2014, 08:03:02 AM »
The fill tube is not frozen. I manually pushed air through the tube and verified the same pressure on each side. The cup that the fill tube pours into is also clear of obstruction since I defrosted the entire ice maker assembly when I replaced the module on the end of the ice maker.

Thank you for the suggestion Maytag Man, do you have others?
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Whirlpool ice maker woes
« Last post by Maytag Man 6725 on September 13, 2014, 07:35:31 AM »
Chech to see if your fill tube is frozen
Dishwasher Repair / Re: Samsung DMT400 over level water error
« Last post by jason1979g on September 12, 2014, 11:42:10 PM »
working on another one of these. "heavy" light flashing. the drain hose was split and leaking into the drain pan. replace hose, cleaned pan and replaced leak sensor b/c it was corroded and nasty from the hose leaking. after it was all together it still flashing "heavy". i tried swapping the main board but still no go. pulled out and checked pan and sensor but everything was dry. have another leak sensor on order. any other insight please let me know.   
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Whirlpool ice maker woes
« Last post by karls on September 12, 2014, 11:25:55 PM »
I've got a Whirlpool GD5NHAXMQ00 that is really putting up a fight. I am not getting any ice out of the blue. It worked fine, then one day it stopped. I did not feel any water in the trays so I replaced the solenoid on the back and verified that the tube feeding the ice maker was indeed clear. Still no water in the trays and thus no ice. Further reesearch suggested that the ice make module was a more likely culprit than the solenoid so I quickly ordered that and installed. 72 hours later- still no ice or signs of life. My question is- what now?

I put the old ice maker module back in the freezer after cleaning/ defrosting the assembly and it ran harvest cycle continuously without stopping. I put the new module back in and it is currently stopped at nearly the 3 o'clock position- almost horizontal facing away from me.

I'm open to suggestions as I am at my wit's end and it's becoming painful spending money on things that do not fix the issue. I appreciate help and replies. My next step is to attempt to bypass the IR and see if I can get some water flowing.
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Whirlpool Side by Side ice maker issue
« Last post by karls on September 12, 2014, 11:03:44 PM »
That shouldn't make any difference. The auger simply turns the opposite direction to create crushed ice vs standard cubes.
Dryer Repair / Re: Roper dryer getting to hot
« Last post by fairbank56 on September 12, 2014, 08:23:04 PM »
I found all the contacts closed in the high heat mode.

  If all the timer contacts are closed, it's in low heat mode but the timer doesn't really regulate the heat directly, it either turns the thermostat heater off for high heat or applies power to the thermostat heater for the low heat setting. It's the operating thermostat that ultimately controls the on/off cycling of the heat coil and thus the dryer exhaust temperature. Just because the thermostat reads less than 1 ohm doesn't mean it's good. If it doesn't open at rated temperature, it's faulty. Sounds like multiple component failure if heat was getting to 400.

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