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61
I am 95% sure it is 90 vDC to coils. O0 O0
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I performed one more test. With most of the dryer back together and just the toppanel and the controls not mounted, I ran the dryer while having the plug disconnected facing the 2 GAS VALCES.

I put a volt meter and measured both AC and DC (again, manual says DC but some forums say AC). I do get like .4x Volte and see maybe a small increase when the ignitor glows (which I could see because the top was off).

Hence, the control board doesn't fire to open the valves...  but does that mean control board is bad?

Not in my view... it still could be that *some* sensor tells the control board not to fire because *some* condition is not met.

I did order the part though..

Checked here:

http://www.modelnumberlookup.com/

For my specs (LG, dryer, DLG2524W) and order it off repair clinic. It was a couple of $ more, but since their return policy is great I decided to go with them.

Will keep this thread going till this is resolved satisfactory
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Dishwasher Repair / Re: Samsung DMR78 series service mode
« Last post by domain on April 14, 2014, 08:05:21 PM »
Sorry! DD82-01121B  :oops: :oops:
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Dishwasher Repair / Re: Samsung DMR78 series service mode
« Last post by AJ on April 14, 2014, 08:04:29 PM »
and that part number would be?
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Dishwasher Repair / Re: Samsung DMR78 series service mode
« Last post by domain on April 14, 2014, 07:55:18 PM »
Dang I am good! :cheers: :cheers: These are UPDATED, with one part number for both!
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Dishwasher Repair / Re: Samsung DMR78 series service mode
« Last post by brightkl on April 14, 2014, 07:42:28 PM »
Today I found my problem in the drain hose that connects to the drain pump.  No problems with drain pump itself.  Removed the broken parts and it works fine now. Also removed the other parts that have not broken off yet.  Here are pictures if someone else needs them.  It took all of about 1 hr from start to finish with dishwasher.  Will never buy another Samsung dishwasher.  Thanks for the help Appliance Junk domain.

Kevin
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Washer Repair / Re: Frigidare washer won't spin or drain
« Last post by domain on April 14, 2014, 06:59:38 PM »
No spin is a consequence of not draining. Restore the draining and the spin will follow. O0
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Washer Repair / Re: Frigidare washer won't spin or drain
« Last post by AJ on April 14, 2014, 06:46:02 PM »
What does it do during the drain and spin cycle?
If you can hear it trying to drain or know that the drain pump is running then I would check the rubber hose that goes between the tub and drain pump. There is a filter in that rubber hose and it's great at catching coins and blocking the flow of water.

I'm talking about #40 and #41 in this diagram of your washer.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/motor-tub-parts-for-frigidaire-gltf2940ee0.html
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Washer Repair / Frigidare washer won't spin or drain
« Last post by Carl1 on April 14, 2014, 06:34:36 PM »
i have a GLTF2940EEO front loader
changed the door switch and still doesn't spin or drain
any ideas Please
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Washer Repair / Neptune MAH4000AYW
« Last post by Stang5Liter on April 14, 2014, 05:57:11 PM »
I have had great luck with my Neptune washer for 14 years of service. I replaced the control board resistors and wax motor five years ago and it has been trouble-free ever since. I also updated the motor control board and motor while it was still under warranty five years ago.

I now have a new problem and can't find any good information because (I'm assuming) people have trashed their Neptune because of the control boards and/or just of old age and have replaced their units. My wife was washing a load of wash last night and came into the laundry room being flooded. The door was open and the wash was soaked and would not spin. She said she remembers seeing the door lock light was showing that it was locked but the door was open so she cleaned everything up and restarted the washer thinking she left the door ajar. She went outside to play with the kids and came back to the room flooded again! She was not happy to say the least.  Anyway, I looked at it and here is what I have found. There was water standing in the bottom of the tub and so I switched the timer to the spin cycle and then noticed that the while it was draining, the hot water was cycling back in. I was able to get it drained and load the washer but while the selector was on cold water, it was filling up with warm water and if I switched it to warm or any other temperature selection, it completely died and lost all power and unlatched the door.

Hmmmm, so I took the top apart and looked at all the electrical connections and everything look good. I then took the control board out of the machine and looked on the back of it and saw a burned spot on the back of the motherboard. As you can see in the pictures, it's burned across three lines right behind the P1 connector. My question is what would have caused this and what parts do I need to check to make sure this doesn't happen to the new board being installed.
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