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61
I ordered 5 Buss MDA for $5 on ebay (two ABC's cost $6 at the store), so I'll try that first. All three door switches are reading right (especially checked for closed monitor). Should I buy another cap? Would mag show n/g if I dug it out and had a look-see? (never looked at one before)   
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Dryer Repair / Re: no power to dryer
« Last post by Maytag Man 6725 on July 27, 2014, 10:01:33 PM »
Sounds like you lost power, either from your house or maybe trace your common line from your door switch. For you to loose dryer operation and light it would have to be in that circuit or simply no power to your dryer. If you have access to a volt meter, check power at your cord block from outside terminal to outside should be 240v from either outside to center 120v do this while pushing start button to make sure you are not loosing neutral  these numbers should not change, if they do you have a power problem
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Dryer Repair / Re: no power to dryer
« Last post by dennishazard on July 27, 2014, 09:49:32 PM »
ok, sorry it was my mistake with the model # it is mde9696ayw , so where is the cord block ? I don't know if this was from a matching set its in a house we are renting
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Wrong type fuse could very well be your problem. Also could be a bad mag, but usually blown fuse is cap related or door switch
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Dryer Repair / Re: no power to dryer
« Last post by Maytag Man 6725 on July 27, 2014, 09:30:41 PM »
I don't think that's a good mod# ,but you need to check power at the cord block. Likely a power problem. If this is a matching dryer to a front load washer than it is likely your main control. Hard to say without a good mod#
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Washer Repair / Re: Removing stuck Cabrio, Bravo or Oasis inner tub
« Last post by niobrara on July 27, 2014, 09:26:28 PM »
E-mail sent to jays,I'll give one a try . I pull a couple of tubs every month that fight. Might save me from pulling the hole thing and beating the shaft out.
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Washer Repair / Re: GE GTWN4250DOWS
« Last post by Maytag Man 6725 on July 27, 2014, 09:23:27 PM »
Sounds like a bad tub bearing
68
It looks like your fan isn't running. On that model, if you leave the door open for 3 min, the evap fan should come on and the air damper should close. If your door is open for 3min and your fan doesn't come on, then either your fan is bad or your control board. If your fan is running, I'd be looking at your evaporator thermistor. The thermistor is cheap and if it hasn't been changed before it would be good to replace while the cover is off. The evaporator thermistor has nothing to do with your evap fan running
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Is the fan running.close the door switch and see is the fan is running on steady pace
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   OTR Micro,  blew quickly (there are two fuses)
   Replaced shorted cap w/used - within .02uf, w/ matching diode.
 Days later, low power; "HVT" fuse not full voltage at both ends (weird).
   1 month later; ran, no heat. I removed control panel, tried for at least 5 minutes to heat a coffee, "Main" and "HVT" fuses 120v both ends.
   So I replaced the panel and left for work. Cooking attempts were made, lights/power/display quit. Found "Main" fuse blown.
   Next test, the "HVT" blew in a few seconds.   
  I moved mw to bench and tested using an old Triplett 630-PLK type 6 w/ two batteries (one is 30v), and a Radio Shack 22-221 (analog).
  MAG filament; 0 Ω. Filament to chassis; ∞ (both meters).
  CAP; R/S - 200k to ∞ both ways. Triplett (x100k range) - near 0 to 9000k (both ways). Should go nearer 0? And to ∞, not 9 mega-ohm?
  DIODE; R/S - ∞ both ways. Triplett (x100k range) 85k one way, ∞ other. Should be less than 85k? (wouldn't blow fuse if open though) 
  HVT Filament winding - 0 Ω. Filament to chassis - ∞ (both meters).
  Secondary - R/S; 350Ω, Triplett; 500Ω (mw paper says "Approx. 90Ω).
  Primary; This has three wires at primary; blk, wh, and a blue between them. Apparently the blue's tapped in the middle for "low" power? It goes through the "HV" fuse to a relay that has the other wire white. The paper found in the mw simply says "Primary winding Approx. .3Ω".
  wh/blk; R/S - 0Ω. Triplett - .6 Ω, then trips "protection" button.
  wh/blu; R/S - 0Ω. Triplett - .2 Ω.
  blu/blk; R/S - .5 Ω. Triplett - .5 Ω then trips "protection" button after varying amounts of time from instantly to 10 seconds or more. I tried leaving the R/S meter attached (set to 5vdc - it's lowest range) to see if there was voltage somehow being induced and tripping the protection, and the needle did move a tiny bit.
  The original fuses were "BUSS MDA 20A", replacements were "BUSS ABC 20A", after running out, I'm using 20 amp glass fuses - could it be it just needs the correct "time delay", or "slow blow" fuses?
  Though my ohms readings are mostly "off", online info says testing the HV components is best done by replacing with "known good" parts - are there ways I can run mw with certain things disconnected to pinpoint the problem (without electrocuting myself)?   
  I couldn't find info on the three-wire primary until I searched "inrush relay" (one of three relays shown in schematic). Could I try (for example) disconnecting the primary wires, run cook cycle, then introduce 120v to the black & white or black & blue terminals with a separate cord? Wouldn't this eliminate problems in switches, relays, etc. that occur only under load?
  Any ideas would be appreciated.
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