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thank you for the reply and tip, Bryan.  How do I check if there is any voltage going to the water valve. 
I know there is ohm in the valve, but I am not sure if voltage is going from the ice maker to the water valve.   Would you suspect that the water valve is no good?
Not sure if it is a hard test or not.   


Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: LG LMX25964SS icemaker not working correctly
« Last post by BryanS on May 22, 2016, 08:10:17 PM »

Well I would replace the icemaker if you had an issue with the ice arm.  There is a reason it got out of place.  You could cycle the ice maker and check voltage at the water valve.  The water valve is on the inside of the left door behind the cover under the ice bin door.  It will be the solenoid with the smaller tubing(1/4").  If you get 120v from the icemaker to the water and not water, you want to blow through the line to see if it is frozen.
By the way, forgot to mention that the water dispense is actually working all this time.
Not sure if that will eliminate the water valve malfunction.
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / LG LMX25964SS icemaker not working correctly
« Last post by cho76ers on May 22, 2016, 07:58:47 PM »
Hello, i need some help on my LG ice maker, not sure if I need to change the ice maker or the water valve.

It began with the metal arm on the ice-maker was somehow in the down position and off gear.  I opened it and was able to line it back up.
But the water stop filling afterward.
After putting back everything in order,  No water seems to be filling the ice maker tray.
I have tested the water valves ohm, and it seems that there is correct ohm on it, about 380.
I did a test cycle with manual water fill and the arm did rotate to swoop the ice out but no success of water filling the ice tray afterward.
Did the on/off numerous time and again, no result of flling water either.
Please help!!! I don't know which part to replace.


Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: Dacor Range F1 Error Code
« Last post by Dacorneveragain on May 22, 2016, 07:57:25 PM »
Thanks I Scrubbed the door latch mechanism and two black temperature sensors with red reset buttons on top lightly with toothbrush and vacuumed and thus fixed it,   both were covered with dust bunnies and shorting sensors especially during humid weather
Washer Repair / Re: Speed Queen coin operated washer
« Last post by Thorning on May 22, 2016, 05:11:46 PM »
I checked my notes and verified the wire arrangement.  Pink with blue stripe and and a white with blue stripe were connected to the mom on switch.  Possibly the wire splice devices are not cutting thru to the wires . I had to scrap one as it did not connect properly.  Also when this arrangement is utilized the momentary switch must be pressed and/or held engaged for at least 10 or 15 seconds before the water starts to flow. Mine worked OK . I ran several loads of wash using this setup to satisfy my own work. Suggest you recheck the connections. Unfortunately I cant go back to do any further checks as I sold the washer yesterday.
Washer Repair / Re: LG front loading washer
« Last post by domain on May 22, 2016, 05:09:05 PM »
keep flushing rubber backing out manually if needed. it thinks it has water inside i think :tickedoff: :tickedoff:
Thats the leak sensor, not overflow O0

Oops, bad choice of words.

Overflow is built into the case brake, no? 
Washer Repair / LG front loading washer
« Last post by Burtbears on May 22, 2016, 04:23:33 PM »
We had a rug that was washed that the backing was coming off of. This clogged the washer during the rinse cycle. After cleaning the filter multiple times, the washer now will not start a new cycle, I can hear the motor on, but the drum will not spin, and it won't start to fill with water.... OE was the original code that it showed, it showed dE one time, but now it doesn't show any codes, it just won't start spinning or filling...??
Anybody have any experience with this??
Washer Repair / Re: LG washplate removal
« Last post by rn12yc on May 22, 2016, 04:11:52 PM »
Sadly, I agree. Been going in stepwise circles with the 90 degree pick to the point of being dizzy for over an hour. Not even 1 mm of progress of movement on the shaft. With that being said, would a dremel be the best tool to open up a section of the plastic collar around the shaft or would say, a chisel work best?  I dont want to bugger up the splines on the shaft. I suspect the grunge underneath the washplate will be substantial. The priest has been called to give this wash plate last rites......
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