« Last post by AJ on March 09, 2014, 03:18:35 PM »
You did good, thanks for the update!
« Last post by jaygee on March 09, 2014, 03:17:19 PM »
I pulled off the distributor motor to check the microswitch and found the plastic cam that attatches to the motor was missing!! WTF? I ordered the motor, cam and the seal from a local parts supplier, installed them and so far so good it has worked fine. I don't know who was in there before and removed the cam and seal, but I bought this at an auction as is!
$200 for dishwasher and $60 in parts, so I think I came out ok.
Thanks for your help,
« Last post by chrispitude on March 09, 2014, 03:10:55 PM »
I just found your forum, and it's awesome! I hope someone can help us.
We have a GE Profile refrigerator (model #PFSF6PKXBB, bottom freezer) less than three years old. Lately, it's been getting harder and harder to scoop ice cream, and we've been slowly increasing the temperature setpoint. We're now at +8F and it's still way too cold.
No matter what, the displayed actual freezer temperature on the front panel is at its set point of +8F. If I change the set point to something else, the displayed actual freezer temperature slowly migrates to that value over the course of minutes, eventually stabilizing at that temperature.
*However*, when I place my outdoor Lacrosse digital temperature sensor in the freezer, the actual temperature varies anywhere between -3F and -12F below the set point.
I found the freezer temperature sensor in the freezer ceiling panel. I removed and tested it. In ice water, it reads about 13.6kohms, which I understand is normal for these. (GE, why do you have to use a different sensor, WR23X10580, with a different calibration curve for this model??)
Now here's where it gets really weird. With the freezer sensor removed, the unit still shows an actual freezer temperature on the display! When I change the freezer set point, the indicated actual temperature still drifts toward it over the course of several minutes! Throughout all of this, actual temperature remains 11-20F too cold. Where's this number coming from if I removed the sensor in the freezer ceiling?
Actual refrigerator temperature seems fine, right around the set point of 38F. However, last week the filter head in the upper right of the refrigerator cracked and started spraying water everywhere. Fortunately I caught it right when it happened, or I would have a serious household water damage situation on my hands. The filter head looks like water froze and expanded inside it (see attached). That is still a mystery, but one problem at a time.
Bad control board? Does it use some other sensor if the freezer sensor signal is invalid or missing? I am stumped.
Is it possible to get the service manual posted for the GE Profile bottom-freezer units?
« Last post by AJ on March 09, 2014, 03:05:25 PM »
The solution is to yank the appliance out and replace with Kenmore Elite. It's working great now!
That works too!
Thanks for the update.
« Last post by jay_ntwr on March 09, 2014, 03:04:27 PM »
I finally read the other error code and took note.
The main problem was LG error code. The solution is to yank the appliance out and replace with Kenmore Elite. It's working great now!
« Last post by AJ on March 09, 2014, 03:03:22 PM »
olyteddy sent me the larger file one and I uploaded it to out google drive.
« Last post by scrapiron on March 09, 2014, 03:00:53 PM »
GE has been putting the tech sheet by the fill valve on the new models. I use a couple of Allen wrenches to put thru the holes in hinges & a stubby 1/4 driver for the 2 screws in the bottom of the door
« Last post by Junkhouse on March 09, 2014, 02:51:42 PM »
« Last post by AJ on March 09, 2014, 02:51:13 PM »
Sounds great, thanks for the update!
« Last post by AJ on March 09, 2014, 02:50:17 PM »
Good job! Thanks for the update.