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61
My final diagnostic from my internal notes.

"The unit had an obviously bad main control board.  This unit was replaced with the new Electrolux replacement for the original part number.  Upon install of the unit, the indications of the machine pointed to incompatibility between boards.  The old boards gave a SY CE, the new control gave no error and no lights.  This indicates incompatibility.  So the display board had to be changed out as well.  After changing both boards the unit operated normally.  Parts cost was $238 against $215 collected for the main control.  I decided not to charge for an extra board as their are a repeat customer with multiple properties and it was already a high dollar job"
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remove the ice bucket and check to see if the thermistor on the bottom of the ice maker was ripped off. Two white wires. That is usually what causes the issue. shorts out the boards. If you have 12vdc to the display board and the display is blank you need the display. If you don't have the 12vdc from the main to the display you need the main and the display.


I'm kind of bummed I didn't check this out first. 
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For some unknown reason, electrolux is not fessing up, if new control board does not solve the problem with the communication error between old display & new PCB under refrigerator, the directions from manufacturer is to replace display board also.  Screw frigidaire.    I price the repair with both boards when giving a quote.

Well this is what it was.  I went back today and installed the display board and it worked.   I actually put the display board with the old board first and it didn't work.  Old display board with new control board and it didn't work.  Then with new display and new control board it worked.  The control board has an obviously blown capacitor.   Then new board had no effect on the display board yet it was outputting the 12v.  There is only one communication wire and there was continuity on it.
   Was a pain.  Yeah not the first time I have been burned with only getting one board on a frigidaire.   

64
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: 795.72043112 service manual
« Last post by dab147315 on April 21, 2017, 03:14:01 PM »
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Picked up an LG fridge, model number LFX25960ST.  It wasn't working and partially taken apart.  Compressor would kick on, then kick off 10 sec later.  Fan runs.  Ended up blowing the start capacitor so bought 3 in 1 start relay to replace.  Wasn't sure if overload or PTC worked since they had seemingly been played with.  Now have three wires coming from fridge (blue, black and pink) and I'm not sure where these should be connected.  New 3 in 1 has two black wires that need to be connected somewhere.  One I thought would go to the black from fridge and one to the blue...but the pink?  Confused.

Thanks in advance

Dave
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Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / 795.72043112 service manual
« Last post by restoreappliances on April 21, 2017, 11:48:26 AM »
Unit has step valve. If I remember correctly it is test 1 to open. If a service manual is available it would be greatly appreciated to have a copy. 

This unit is low on charge.
67
Washer Repair / Re: Whirlpool direct drive top load timer interchange?
« Last post by maxwelhse on April 21, 2017, 09:02:20 AM »
Everything looks legit, and the switch seems to work reliably when I mess with it, and after I let it cool off for about 10 minutes in the "off" position on the knob last night it ran like a scalded dog for the next 2 loads. Seriously, when it's working it runs better than it ever has. I'm thinking it just can't be the motor or transmission because that would give me problems all the time, right?

Since I haven't been able to catch it in the act, I can't confirm if it comes on and just "hums" instead of entering the spin cycle or if it simply does nothing like a lid switch problem would indicate. I'm with you in your thoughts about wiring or the lid switch. Do lid switches ever cause intermittently failures or low voltage conditions?
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Washer Repair / Re: Whirlpool direct drive top load timer interchange?
« Last post by scrapiron on April 21, 2017, 08:55:55 AM »
Lid switch or broken wire/bad connection at the motor?
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Washer Repair / Re: No Hot Water
« Last post by app1 on April 21, 2017, 08:51:22 AM »
Sorry , I meant to say we only get Cold Water!!! I'm sorry!
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Washer Repair / Re: LG WM2450HRA OE Error Code Will Not Clear
« Last post by scrapiron on April 21, 2017, 08:50:28 AM »
I'm assuming that the washer is pumping water out at a decent rate, (draining it into a bucket allows you to verify this) it just throws the OE error after it begins draining.  If there are no clogs or restrictions and you have installed a new pump, I would suggest you look for crud in the stub going to the pressure switch hose at the bottom of the tub or in the pressure hose. It could also be a bad pressure switch, but I don't ever recall seeing one fail on an LG. The pressure switch checks the water level in the washer and sends a signal to the control board, which reports the water level as a frequency. If you press and hold the Wash/Rinse button and the Delay Wash buttons together, you should see a water level frequency greater than 25 kHz on the display. If it's lower than that, you most likely have a problem with the pressure hose or pressure switch. It could also be a control board issue but check the other things first.
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