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« Last post by ameritech on February 18, 2017, 11:02:19 AM »
I've been searching the site with no luck, but would anybody have a tech sheet or ANY info on FPBS2777RF1? Its a frigidaire fench door/bottom mount, just out of warranty.
So the original complaint was warmer temps and a "high temp detected" light on display (verified when I got there). There was a good bit of frost build up on the evap, and the heater had continuity, so I assumed it was either the thermostat or Control board. I got continuity on the stat with my hair dryer on it, so I assumed it was bad (?). I'm fairly new to refrigeration, so please correct me if I'm wrong. Should the thermostat be closed when cold, open when hot (after the heater has defrosted the coils)? Doesnt it open somewhere between 40-90 faranheit?
Well, anyway that's I banked on and ordered the stat. I defrosted it and came back yesterday with the part. So this is what really made doubt my diagnosis... I tested the new stat at room temp and also with a hair dryer on it and it had continuity on it just like the original. Am I missing something? Again, I have very little experience with refrigeration, but I followed some tips online and according to what they were sayong the stat was bad...
So anyways coils were frosted up again, but it was at proper temp but still had that "high temp" error in the display. I went ahead and put in the stat but started second guessing myself which is why Im here! There's alot of knowledgable techs on here and you guys have saved my butt in the past so I thought Id run it by...
I guess I really need to know if all defrost thermostats are the same??? Any help is appreciated!
« Last post by ameritech on February 18, 2017, 10:28:38 AM »
Thanks for the heads up!
update on the cabrio washer...I replaced the capacitor out of curiosity and tried a new shift motor. this time the washer washed throught the whole cycle until the spin and it made a loud grinding noise when it went into the high speed spin. i'm thinking it may be in the transmission or the cam assembly. I've never had one of those transmissions apart but are the repairable or do you have to buy the replacement transmission. At this point I've got more money in it than its worth but I need to learn a little more about these machines so i'm gonna carry on. any help would be nice thanks
« Last post by manden on February 18, 2017, 04:50:15 AM »
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.
The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.
Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.
If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
I did but it never would do anything. Normally when I replace a component on these washers it completes the calibration this time in this washer it locks the lid then goes to done...never rotates the basket or anything. I even tried another board today...it actually agitated but after a while motor hot again
« Last post by Caddy4343 on February 17, 2017, 06:40:34 PM »
Thanks. I'll disconnect the vent and see what happens.
« Last post by mz3own on February 17, 2017, 06:30:16 PM »
remove the vent and check the heat load cycle coming from the back of the dryer.
Try leaving the vent detached to see if it runs with out issue for several cycles, if it does your vent is your issue.
« Last post by mz3own on February 17, 2017, 06:27:53 PM »
you voided your warranty anyways since you replaced parts.
But you are on the right track. Ohm out the wire connector from the display to the main and see if there is a break or a dead short.
« Last post by Caddy4343 on February 17, 2017, 05:51:45 PM »
Kenmore electric dryer keeps blowing the high limit safety. I've replaced it twice and the operating thermostat once. I put in a new 279769 kit in and watch the heating coil. It cycles fine and then blows after a couple of loads. The vent is clear. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks
« Last post by Bob_Loblaw on February 17, 2017, 03:20:35 PM »
I replaced a 20ish year old GE d/w with this LG LDF7774BD. I installed it myself, wired it up, and ran a Quick Wash cycle with nothing in it for a test. The unit did great and was extremely quiet.
Next day: loaded the machine with dirty dishes, added detergent pack, press power button, nothing. Zero sign of any life. No LEDs, no noise, nothing. Breaker is good and several resets make no difference. Wiring is good and getting 120v at the input to the noise filter. Order a noise filter online just to try it, but no difference. Both filters were delivering 120v to the board.
Read more online and check the service manual, they say try replacing the board. I do just that, but no difference. Also, I noticed that the red power LED on the board has been off this entire time. Before flipping the breaker the first time with the new board, I set my phone to take a video of the power LED as I flip the breaker. Review the video and it shows the LED illuminating for a split second before a relay kicks and cuts power to it.
A tech on a forum suggested to another guy that he leave it powered up and try disconnecting components from the board until he finds the shorted out component that is kicking the board into this failsafe mode. I try that and when I remove the display board connector from the main board, it wakes up and makes all kind of happy noises. Furthermore, the red power LED kicks on and all buttons (except for the power button) work when the display connector is reconnected. If you wait a few minutes and the machine goes back into sleep mode, it can't be reawakened without disconnecting the display board again. I even kept it awake, put it back together, and ran a load like this with no issues.
Alas, I believe I have the problem licked and order a new display board. The unit has two boards: the left side part number (EBR72910205) returned no results on Google. I ordered a replacement from APP for the right side one (EBR72910102) thinking that the soft touch power button on it had gone bad. The replacement arrived, I installed it today, and nothing. The unit is in the exact same state.
The only thing I can think of now is that it is the left side board (all wiring from the right side passes trough it). I'm also pretty sick and tired of messing with this thing and would rather just chuck it.
Of course, LG has been zero help and the retailer keeps sending me back to the manufacturer. LG tells me I'm on the hook for any repair costs incurred if the tech says the issue is due to an improper installation. I'd rather not sink anything more into this than the cost of a new, sub-$100 board.
Does anyone here know of anything I may have overlooked?
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