A free world-class appliance repair website for everyone.
Connect with appliance repair technicians from the U.S. and Canada.
Download free service manuals, wiring diagrams, tech sheets and more.
Attention Technicians: Join our free private tech-only pro forum today.
« Last post by dab147315 on December 06, 2013, 08:02:08 PM »
Also that 48 volts D.C close a set of contacts that can be measure with a voltmeter.You should get Zero volts when relay is closed and 120 volts a/c when open and if you get 120 volts a/c bad relay and this would cause whats happening to you.Motor can cause this also.But like i said i suspect motor but you may want to try this measurement first .
« Last post by dab147315 on December 06, 2013, 07:33:23 PM »
This relay also applies to you.While holding Start switch down and checking motor relay you should get 48 volts D.C on the two pink wires on the relay if you do suspect motor relay.But i do think from i am getting from you the motor is bad.
« Last post by Blaiser on December 06, 2013, 07:26:35 PM »
Take a close look at the filter (6201EC1006A) it is inline with the power cord. It allows power to flow to the PCB. It should be located along top of the frame (standing in front of the washer, it should be located on the right side about 1/2 way) mounted to frame. Make sure you plug machine in and check to see if AC Power flows to PCB Board. Check also for burn't coil.
« Last post by dab147315 on December 06, 2013, 07:21:57 PM »
The board sends 48vdc to the two relays one relay is for the motor and the other is for the heater and this closes the relays contacts causing the motor to turn on and the heater to come on if everything else is good in the circuit.No 48vdc suspect bad board.
« Last post by ms0702 on December 06, 2013, 06:52:10 PM »
Did you fix the Problem? I have the same error codes, the water temperature sensor seems to test right and the wires to the ccu are good, any body have any other ideas?
« Last post by Ben B on December 06, 2013, 03:44:04 PM »
I have an older LG Tromm Front Load washer, Mod # WM2277HW s/n # 602kwhx05025.
In Jan 2013 I had to replace the control Board because it died. Nothing worked or lit and the LED on the control board would not light... So, with the new control board, it worked great.... for 10 months... then Bam. Literally, .. My wife was washing and I head a bam.. Later realized the washer was dead.. no lights no codes... Opened it up and the LED on the control board is not lit...
The tub turns freely and nothing "looks" wrong....
What would cause the control board to die prematurely? any suggestions to to check some other part before I re-order the control board?
« Last post by Fisack23 on December 06, 2013, 03:22:50 PM »
Top of the door when you open it: MOD 110.69822801 SER M01727916. Then it says TYPE: DDOT-ELE-2406024-EH54
The lint trap is at the bottom of the door when you open it.
« Last post by ts3 on December 06, 2013, 02:05:00 PM »
AJ, could you please post this service manual again? That link no longer seems to work, and I can't find it in Google Drive.
« Last post by stangit on December 06, 2013, 12:57:33 PM »
Yep.. I Should of included doing a visual of the board. I also noticed that the evap was only getting frosted at the inlet and maybe the first row, even after I disabled the heater..It's possible I may have fried things, but wont ever know for sure as I didn't check the ADC board at the outset.
I had to pull the trigger on getting another unit as we were without a fridge since Nov. 28th..
It really is weird that there are no dead mice carcases...
So...is my bottom freezer, used Kenmore any good/bad or just different then the top freezer setups,
aside from the cold air being blown upwards instead of down? It's much noisier then I'm accustomed to, with all the buzz/clicks and humming....But it works!
« Last post by dab147315 on December 06, 2013, 11:51:23 AM »
It will still spin and agitate with a bad shifter coil.Maybe try to reset motor like in video and than look at the blinking code again.