Pages: 1 ... 4 5  7 8 ... 10
« Last post by rubu on March 10, 2014, 04:29:34 PM »
First thanks for having this wonderful forum. Appreciate it.
Temperature on the settings shows Freezer 12 and Refrigerator 42. When ever I adjust it to desired temp....0 and 37. It never reach that temperature. Temperature keeps on fluctuating as we use the appliance.
So after reading few threads here following are the steps I followed.
1. Pulled the refrigerator and removed the back panel compressor(touched it and sensed its vibrating) and condenser fan (visual check) next to it working. vacuumed the coiled cylinder attached to the condenser fan.
2. Open the motherboard and check for any burnt signs (visually inspected from the top)
3. Tried to open the inside back panel to see if inside is frozen I could not open the panel and I am stuck here....see picture. Could some please guide on how to open the panel. When I apply pressure to the panel forzen snow kind stuff falls..makes me think its frozen insie ide. I removed the 4 nuts and tried to push down and up and its just moves and can't take it out....scared to put force to pull.
Could someone kindly guide me to next steps.
Thanks in advance
« Last post by markcoby98 on March 10, 2014, 04:18:10 PM »
•Quick curing epoxy that sets in 15 minutes and cures in 30 minutes
•Strength of 3770 PSI
•Repairs ABS, PVC, polyurethane, and polypropylene plastics I have used this product several times in the past with GREAT results
This product in NOT available localy / special order only!!
Polyurethane and Polypropylene
***Repair procedure Instructions***
1. Clean the surfaces WELL!
2. Score the surfaces THOROUGHLY! (use medium grit sandpaper)
(use medium grit sandpaper)
3. Cut a plastic patch to over lap
the damaged area by at least ½
inch on high stress areas:
(IE: Plastic washer tubs)
4. Polyurethane and Polypropylene patch...
patch material can be got using
an old empty detergent bottle:
4a. Cut patch to size & THOROUGHLY
prepare as in steps 1 & 2
5. MAKE SURE SURFACES ARE CLEAN & DRY
6. Mix Polyurethane and Polypropylene
epoxy mender THOROUGHLY use = parts
(just like any normal epoxy)
7. Apply a smooth coat of epoxy on one
side of plastic patch, spread epoxy
over damaged area to be repaired,
press patch over area smoothing excess
repair epoxy over the edges of the patch
piece. You will have about 10 minuets of
working time with the plastic mender epoxy
(at room temperature 70 degrees)
(CAUTION the plastic mender will get hot!)
8. I allow the epoxy to cure over night (12 hours)
before I test the bond.
* I have repaired several washing machines
with cracked plastic tubs successfully!!
This product is the BOMB for Polyurethane
and Polypropylene plastics, other plastic
epoxy glues totally harden, then when the
repaired plastic flexes they crack and peel
off. But this Polyurethane and Polypropylene
repair epoxy cures with a certain amount of flex to it
it stays flexible like the plastic it is repairing,
So it remains tight!! And at 3770 PSI it is STRONGER
Than the plastic your repairing!!
** One Sears / Kenmore washer that I fixed in this way
has lasted for 3 years and is STILL going strong...
(It had a 5 inch crack in the very bottom of the tub!!!)
Please follow these instructions to the letter
and you will have no problem!
Good luck on your repair...
$27.00 WITH FREE SHIPPING
« Last post by dab147315 on March 10, 2014, 03:56:23 PM »
Let us know want you find.
« Last post by wuvcats on March 10, 2014, 03:54:27 PM »
Thank you so much for your quick response!
« Last post by dab147315 on March 10, 2014, 03:09:55 PM »
« Last post by dab147315 on March 10, 2014, 02:52:39 PM »
Bad motor.Hums then clicks off on overload on the motor and then will not try to start until after motor overload resets and you push start button and hums again.This is a bad motor.Buy new dryer.
« Last post by Barley on March 10, 2014, 02:45:54 PM »
When the belt was replaced a month ago, we took time to clean and vacuum out all the lint we could see.
Before this final strike of no starting, it would sometimes eventually kick in and run for a little bit, and then just shut off.
New Drive motor prices I've seen are $155-$220 which took the wind out of that sail.
Could it be thermal fuse deal, or probably the motor?
« Last post by wuvcats on March 10, 2014, 02:19:19 PM »
Hello! Could I please get a copy of the service manual for the Maytag SAV4655EWW
Washing Machine? My washer just started leaking yesterday all over the floor. Thank you!
« Last post by mickeyj on March 10, 2014, 02:09:08 PM »
Keeps shorting out the main control board, locks lid and clicks after a spark comes out of the board. 2 boards gone. This was the original problem. Lid locked, light on and clicking. Would not run through a diagnostic mode. Have checked the whole wire harness, OK. Attempted to try it with a new lid switch, no luck. Unplugged each connector to inspect it for a loose or shorted wire.
« Last post by Barley on March 10, 2014, 01:51:16 PM »
First, thank you for reading and your time in advance. First background...
Okay, the gas dryer is a 2300aww, rev 11
It will not start. Sounds like it wants to, with sort of a humming but does not turn all the way over, if that makes sense. Will do that a few times, and then not. When I had the lid opened and did this, it would make the same sound a couple of times but after a bit of the humming I heard a click and then nothing, no more humming when trying for a bit. There was a slight click sound, then nothing again until you leave it alone for a bit. Possible smell of hot wires, not sure.
Opened front and removed lint gathered before fan blade, but otherwise then looked good. Closed back up, but no change. Don't think it is the door switch.
Replaced belt about a month ago thanks to you tube videos. Made sure door switch wires returned to clip away from drum, and they look fine now.
I am not mechanically inclined, but stubborn and can usually follow step A and B instructions to a point. Do not know how to use ohm meter, etc. but might be able to grab somebody who does know.
I can rotate the drum manually from inside (both directions actually).
Any suggestions for testing, etc. before pricing motors?
Thank You again!
Pages: 1 ... 4 5  7 8 ... 10