Recent Posts

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51
Chit Chat / Re: Whirlpool direct drive
« Last post by ejarick on August 29, 2014, 07:37:43 AM »
I've had the agitator out several times,
everything seems to be tight and in place,
nothing stuck under the agitator, I worked on
lots of these before and never had this problem.
Thank You for the replies, any other ideas please post
52
Chit Chat / Make a Small Air Conditioner Out of an Ice Bucket
« Last post by AJ on August 29, 2014, 07:17:19 AM »
53
Chit Chat / Re: Whirlpool direct drive
« Last post by go400 on August 29, 2014, 03:23:43 AM »
Also, something may have fallen in the tub, or the comb filter on the bottom of the basket broke.
54
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: A/C leak freeze
« Last post by go400 on August 29, 2014, 03:17:06 AM »
So, I guess you will not need to suck the system down, and inject a small amount slowly. I had one where I injected too much too fast and the compressor seized.
55
Here is a photo of my Honeywell A/C contactor. The unit itself is a 1992 model Tempstar, so I do not know if the contactor was installed by Tempstar at manufacture, or if someone had already replaced the original equipment.

As seen, L1, L2 and T1, T2 are plainly visible, but not labeled in any way. At the far left, the two terminals seen with yellow wires would be the 24V control wires. And also plainly visible, are the single set of contacts, burned very badly. This alone, tells me that the contactor needs to be replaced, even though testing across all normal terminal pairs, including the low voltage wires, they all test on target, with the contactor plunger pulled in, (unit running): 240VAC across L1 / L2, the same across T1 / T2, and 24VAC across the low voltage control terminals.

I did remove the contactor from its' mount, and wrote down ALL the numbers / letters that were on it. I even used a magnifying glass to try and get these #'s correct, to the best of my ability. If I read them right, number / letter combinations were: 28242A-1235, and W01050839HW. I am 90-95% sure that these are correctly read by me. I also thought that the zeros might be the letter "O", punched in that variation and searched, returning zero results.

I even called Honeywell tech support, gave THEM the numbers, and they could not find a match. I will try your numbers now, and see if something pops up. I'll post again later.

Tommy


                           
56
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: A/C leak freeze
« Last post by tgoods on August 29, 2014, 01:19:41 AM »
Inject it directly into the low side while the compressor is running.  I haven't seized one yet. The .5 oz. size is what I use, part number 00277.  It will leave a lot of sealant in the hose.  I unscrew the syringe, pull some air into the syringe, screw it back onto the hose and push the rest of the sealant in.  The hose is clear so you know when to stop. That way there's no wasted sealant.
57
Washer Repair / Re: LG Washing Machine WM2496HWM LE Error Code
« Last post by john63 on August 28, 2014, 11:57:51 PM »
<<< The serial number is:  702KWPV00928 >>>

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Built February 2007

**********

<<< I only use a couple tablespoons of detergent - max!!  >>>

<<< I use the KIRKLAND BRAND from Costco >>>

**********

Verify that the detergent has an "he" emblem on the label (indicates low suds detergent type)

Check the label for concentrated strength (2X or 3X )

If none are found---then the detergent is *regular strength*---never use more than 2 tablespoons

If 2X---use 1 tablespoon

If 3X---use 1 teaspoon

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<<< I DO use A LOT of Downey (fabric softener), could that be the culprit? >>>

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No

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 <<<I fill the fabric softener dispenser to the top >>>

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Use only 2 tablespoons of liquid fabric softener or bleach

These however have nothing to do with an "LE" error

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<<<**Now, even after the circuit breaker being flipped off for 24 hours, I turn it on to try to do a spin/drain cycle and it immediately flashes the "LE" error code.  It won't even start a cycle and it has never done that.**>>>

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I'd start looking for loose connections or servicer error.

Unplug the washer

One at a time---remove each plug from the Main Board and re-connect (to ensure good connection)
If a plug is loose (for the motor Hall Effect Sensor)---this will trigger an immediate "LE" when the washer is turned on

Inspect the Motor Wire Harness for chaffing/damage.
If the servicer failed to properly secure the Motor Wire Harness (using all the wire restraints/clasps)---the ROTOR will rub/cut into the wiring---this would trigger an "LE" error as soon as the washer is turned on

If the plugs and wires are good/not damaged...

Next---I'd use a bright flashlight to examine the Main Board---to verify that it has indeed been replaced.

There are several stickers on the M/B

One of them has a date code

I'd like to see that the date is NOT 2007 (which would confirm that the Main Board was *never* replaced).

The ideal date code should be 2011 or newer

Also---write down the PART NUMBER (should be 6871ER1104A)

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<<< THE WASHER IS ON A PEDESTAL...Would that matter if it wasn't leveled correctly? >>>

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None whatsoever.


58
It sounds most likely that you have a flakey contactor. Pull the power disconnect or cycle OFF the breaker before changing. This is 240VAC you will be working around.

Also, the best way to check a capacitor is with a DVOM with capacitance function.  Borrow one or buy an inexpensive one from Sears or Harbor Freight.

Post again if you have additional questions.
59
Washer Repair / Re: Maytag Bravos X won't spin or agitate correctly
« Last post by rockinrobin on August 28, 2014, 11:05:00 PM »
It won't spin fast until most of the water is drained or won't spin fast if you have a Suds condition (F0E2 Code - Use 2 Cups Distilled White Vinegar to dissolve the Suds).
Only use HE Liquid Detergent (3 Tablespoons of Regular HE, 2 Tablespoons of Double Strength HE and 1 Tablespoon of Triple Strength HE).
Agitate/Spin Issue when Loaded:

1) Be sure the Nut on the Big Belt Pulley is tight (big pulley is located in center under the Washer, remove belt cover plastic plate to access).  Also, inspect the inside of Belt to see if it the threads are worn.
1a) If the nut is tight and belt looks good then I would remove basket to be sure nothing is stuck between basket & tub (disassembly instruction's listed in the Service Repair Manual).
You may want to use Blue Loc-Tite (available at Hardware Store) on the Nut Threads if it comes loose again.

If you still get the F7E1 after doing above then the Shift Actuator, Wire Harness and other related part's needs to be tested (see the Service Repair Manual).
Owner's Manual says to place fabrics to the edge of basket, not on top of wash plate (don't know why but maybe someone else does).

Let us know if you resolve the issue or have further question's.
60
Washer Repair / flooded basement
« Last post by ambergentry419 on August 28, 2014, 10:50:00 PM »
My basement flooded a lot is my washer and dryer ruined and how much would it cost to have someone come out to look at it
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