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GE now advises to change that thermistor without removing the thermal block. They say you will never get the block secured back to the evaporator as tight as needed. There is also a service bulletin i don't think it applies to you but good to know about.
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: How do I get to the icemaker?
« Last post by AJ on October 02, 2015, 07:41:42 AM »
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: How do I get to the icemaker?
« Last post by mz3own on October 02, 2015, 05:18:52 AM »
no dice for me
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Help getting service manual GE TFG30PFDA WW
« Last post by avitsur on October 02, 2015, 03:42:28 AM »
Hello All
First of all, this is my first post in the forum, so if I do something wrong, please be tolerant.
I have a GE refrigerator (quite old, build 2000) model TFG30PFDA WW. I'm looking for it's service manual. my attempts on the net were
all in vain. I've wrote to GE and was very surprised and disappointed that they didn't even answered.
Anyhow, if any of you members have an idea where I can find it/a link to download it, it will be a great help.
btw. - this is a model that works on 220V but I believe that there is the same refrigerator for 110v (under a different model no., of course) that will be fine, as well.
Thanks you have been very helpful.

Regarding Thermistor testing when they are bad are they usually way off or do you really need to know exactly what temp the thermistor is at to test the ohm's reading accuracy.

For example, I have a fresh food defrost problem.  When checking the Fresh Food Evaporator thermistor when it is frosted up and I check ohms between P1 & P5 on Plug J1 and get 17k ohms.  Is that close enough to assume it is working OK and problem is main board, fan is working.  Or do I really need to put it in ice water to test it at 32F looking for 15.5-17.1 ohms (16.3 =/- 5%)?
Washer Repair / Maytag Neptune MAH4000AWW Series 11 (S/N 62...) will not run
« Last post by DAJ on October 01, 2015, 11:14:42 PM »
We have a 15yr old Neptune.  It had the Q6/R11/wax motor repair in 2004 and the motor/motor control replaced in 2011 and worked fine until a few days ago.  Now, when you push the Start button, in ANY timer position, the ON light comes on and the machine begins whatever function is selected, but shuts off after EXACTLY 10 seconds.  You can restart the machine and slowly step through a cycle, but it shuts down repeatedly at 10 seconds.  This occurs even in the Delay mode, when the machine is doing nothing except running the timer motor.

I have run all the motor/motor control tests and it all checks OK.  If I disconnect JP4 on the control board and the L/N (black/white wire) connector and connect a cheater cord in its place, and plug directly into an outlet, the drum turns at 50rpm as advertised, and will do so indefinitely.  If I put the timer in delay mode, disconnect JP4 (with L/N plug connected) and push the Start switch, the drum will turn at 50rpm for EXACTLY 10 seconds.

This all seemed to indicate a failed main control board, but I replaced that with a new one, and the machine acts exactly the same.  I have selectively disconnected almost everything in the machine - motor, main/recirculate pumps, water valves, etc. - and as long as the control board has power, it will operate for 10 seconds and then quit.  The only other thing common to all functions is the timer, so I removed it, pulled the contact module off, and visibly examined and manually tested (ohmed) every set of contacts, and found no problems.  The timer motor, when connected to external power with the cheater cord, functions normally.

I could proceed to replace the timer, motor, and motor control, but I fear that I will throw all that money at a 15yr old machine (still in excellent condition otherwise, however) and it still won't work.

Any thoughts or suggestions (other than buy a new one!)?
Thanks for the info that really helps. 
Dab.... That photo you posted is cut off when I open it right where I want to see it.  Can you repost the photo so the full photo is visible?
Also do you know where all those thermistors connect so they can be tested.  I know about pins 1-4 on plug of J1, but which is which and where do the rest plug it.  It would make it a lot easier to test them.
Washer Repair / Re: Clicking Cabrio
« Last post by tgoods on October 01, 2015, 10:40:18 PM »
I went back to this one with a lid hinge, the left one under the bleach dispenser was rusted out (nice design). They told me the clicking stopped. I could still hear a faint clicking at low speed that quit at high speed. The spacers never go in straight but this one was worse than usual. I had to give the shaft a couple of smacks with a hammer to get it to go in. Why does Whirlpool make a tool that aligns the bearings but not the spacer?
Chit Chat / Re: updrade to technician
« Last post by andersenappliance on October 01, 2015, 10:38:12 PM »
Did you want to be "upgrayedd?"

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