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« Last post by Caddy4343 on October 02, 2015, 07:23:55 PM »
Left front burner wouldn't heat. Found a break in the coil. This burner has 3 burners in it. The front, rear and a bridge burner between the front and rear. It's all one piece. I ordered a new burner and installed it. Now none of the burners heat. The hot surface light does come on. Obviously, it's a wiring issue. I changed one wire at a time. The new burner has 2 jumper wires that the original didn't have. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, Don.
« Last post by irothman on October 02, 2015, 01:55:56 PM »
I just paid $230 to have the duckbill drain tube replaced with an S-drain tube by a certified KitchenAid serviceman in my KitchenAid french door refrigerator which is only 4 years old. What a rip off. By reading the internet I knew the problem before I called for repair. The store knew the problem before they sent out the service person. Yet they had the nerve to charge me $104 diagnostic fee and $110 labor charge plus tax. The fact that KitchenAid paid for the replacement part (which costs only $15.92) which is different than the original part is because they know that their original design was flawed. However, the true cost is the labor to replace. By the way, I was informed by the store if I replaced the part, which I didn't feel comfortable doing, that it would void the remaining warranty. I suggest we all start a class action suit against KitchenAid, Whirlpool, Maytag, etc which is all the same company with the same lousy design.
« Last post by dab147315 on October 02, 2015, 12:33:11 PM »
On this G.E. Refrigerator service manual you can just click on the Model number or Service Manual number and it takes you to that Manual. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-i5KqMA2RZwbXVwMDY0cll4ZFU/view?usp=sharing
After you download it.
« Last post by WC_MH on October 02, 2015, 09:56:14 AM »
I was looking for the "service manual" so that I had all the necessary information to trouble shoot this model. I found reference to it in the thread but not on the Google drive. Here is a link to a free .pdf that you can download. Hope it helps you like it did me. http://applianceassistant.com/Appliance-Repair/Appliance-Service-Repair-Manual-Feature.php?id=2230
« Last post by dab147315 on October 02, 2015, 09:06:34 AM »
GE now advises to change that thermistor without removing the thermal block. They say you will never get the block secured back to the evaporator as tight as needed. There is also a service bulletin i don't think it applies to you but good to know about.
« Last post by AJ on October 02, 2015, 07:41:42 AM »
« Last post by mz3own on October 02, 2015, 05:18:52 AM »
no dice for me
« Last post by avitsur on October 02, 2015, 03:42:28 AM »
First of all, this is my first post in the forum, so if I do something wrong, please be tolerant.
I have a GE refrigerator (quite old, build 2000) model TFG30PFDA WW. I'm looking for it's service manual. my attempts on the net were
all in vain. I've wrote to GE and was very surprised and disappointed that they didn't even answered.
Anyhow, if any of you members have an idea where I can find it/a link to download it, it will be a great help.
btw. - this is a model that works on 220V but I believe that there is the same refrigerator for 110v (under a different model no., of course) that will be fine, as well.
« Last post by mawinter on October 02, 2015, 01:18:22 AM »
Thanks you have been very helpful.
Regarding Thermistor testing when they are bad are they usually way off or do you really need to know exactly what temp the thermistor is at to test the ohm's reading accuracy.
For example, I have a fresh food defrost problem. When checking the Fresh Food Evaporator thermistor when it is frosted up and I check ohms between P1 & P5 on Plug J1 and get 17k ohms. Is that close enough to assume it is working OK and problem is main board, fan is working. Or do I really need to put it in ice water to test it at 32F looking for 15.5-17.1 ohms (16.3 =/- 5%)?
« Last post by DAJ on October 01, 2015, 11:14:42 PM »
We have a 15yr old Neptune. It had the Q6/R11/wax motor repair in 2004 and the motor/motor control replaced in 2011 and worked fine until a few days ago. Now, when you push the Start button, in ANY timer position, the ON light comes on and the machine begins whatever function is selected, but shuts off after EXACTLY 10 seconds. You can restart the machine and slowly step through a cycle, but it shuts down repeatedly at 10 seconds. This occurs even in the Delay mode, when the machine is doing nothing except running the timer motor.
I have run all the motor/motor control tests and it all checks OK. If I disconnect JP4 on the control board and the L/N (black/white wire) connector and connect a cheater cord in its place, and plug directly into an outlet, the drum turns at 50rpm as advertised, and will do so indefinitely. If I put the timer in delay mode, disconnect JP4 (with L/N plug connected) and push the Start switch, the drum will turn at 50rpm for EXACTLY 10 seconds.
This all seemed to indicate a failed main control board, but I replaced that with a new one, and the machine acts exactly the same. I have selectively disconnected almost everything in the machine - motor, main/recirculate pumps, water valves, etc. - and as long as the control board has power, it will operate for 10 seconds and then quit. The only other thing common to all functions is the timer, so I removed it, pulled the contact module off, and visibly examined and manually tested (ohmed) every set of contacts, and found no problems. The timer motor, when connected to external power with the cheater cord, functions normally.
I could proceed to replace the timer, motor, and motor control, but I fear that I will throw all that money at a 15yr old machine (still in excellent condition otherwise, however) and it still won't work.
Any thoughts or suggestions (other than buy a new one!)?
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