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31
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Siemens side-by-side leaking from freezer
« Last post by ollihd on September 03, 2015, 03:53:42 AM »
Hello all!

I have a 5 year old Siemens side-by-side fridge with an ice cube dispenser. A couple of weeks ago the fridge and freezer part started warming up. I did all the diagnostics and manually defrosted the whole thing, it worked. Fridge and freezer part both get cold as they should (measured).

Now the problem is that the freezer is forming ice in the bottom of the housing. This ice also seems to melt from time to time (one every 2 days). I suspect that it is because of the automatic de-frost function.

I have been trying to figure this out and have come to the conclusion that when the freezer starts the de-frost cycle it doesn't pre-cool the freezer. I have come to this conclusion because when going through the service manual i have found that if the freezer (when in diagnostic-mode) gives you the error code "F1", this means that the F-sensor is not working. F-sensor of course being the freezer-sensor. When checking the service manual the pre-cool phase of the de-frost cycle starts by checking the f-sensor.

This makes me believe that because the f-sensor is not working properly the pre-cool doesn't start and the freezer get's just a little bit too warm and because of that forms condensation, leaking the water to the bottom, freezing and then during the next cycle unfreezing the ice again -> resulting the water leaking out of the fridge.

I'm not a appliance professional so I would like to know if i'm on the right path? Should I try something else?

Any suggestions are warmly welcome!

Greetings from Finland (it's cold here, but not cold enough for fridges to work properly it seems :)

The control board that this unit uses is: FRU54AD001

Service manual attached.

P.S. The thing that bothers me the most about the error code is that manual says it should say "F1", my error code says "-F1" I have no idea why there is a "-" mark in the front of my code.
32
Hmm, it actually seems that I'm not getting any voltage on the w/w and r/r terminals of the hv transformer. Primary interlock switch seems fine, so I guess I'm going to double check those cutoffs... or otherwise it might be the RY2 relay on the main board. At least if I'm reading the schematic right :)
33
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Whirlpool refrigerator will not run suddenly
« Last post by Appliance Savers on September 02, 2015, 11:21:59 PM »
The white piece is called overload protector... It should not rattle like the sound of a tic-tac bottle. If it sounds like one whole piece inside just shaking a little, it may be fine. If it sounds like a bunch of tictacs then it's going to need to be replaced. The other grey piece is the relay and its sold with the overload as a combination. Part # W10189190... since your friend transported the frig at a 45 degree angle... the power cord may have been damaged or strained in some way... check the voltage at the molex connector, where the power from the power cord splits up into different colored wires. Some wires run into the frig to supply power to the inner components, some wires go to the relay terminals and condenser fan. If you're not getting any power to the relay and condensor fan from the power cord, part #W10309395 then don't worry about the relay/overload just yet.
34
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: Whirlpool stove, Model GR465LXLS 1, Error E4-F3
« Last post by andyf80 on September 02, 2015, 11:12:21 PM »
Hi Joey,
To tell if it's the sensor or board you will need to test the temp sensor at room temp with an ohm meter.
1. Disconnect the power
2. Gain access to the plug for the temp sensor
3. Disconnect the sensor plug
4. Take an ohm measurement across the two wires for the sensor.

The reading should be around 1.1k ohms (may read 1100)

If so, your sensor is likely good. If not, it could be a bad connection either at that plug or at the board. If the connections are good, most likely it would be the board. Not the touch panel, but the control board.
If it's discontinued, it leaves you with the option of having the board sent off to be rebuilt.

I hope that helps.
35
Washer Repair / Re: WJRE5550K2WW No spin
« Last post by andyf80 on September 02, 2015, 10:56:05 PM »
Hi,
My money is on a bad sifter.
I'd remove the mode shifter/actuator from the machine and actuate the lever (the lever the mode shifter moves from agitate to spin) by hand. If it moves freely by hand back and forth, I'd suspect it's the mode shifter not actuating the lever far enough.

If you keep one on your truck they are cheap enough and easy enough to throw it on there to check.

The fact that it only agitates even in the diagnosis mode points strongly toward that part.
36
Washer Repair / Re: Tub to pump hose on S.Q. Md. CTSAOAWN
« Last post by andyf80 on September 02, 2015, 10:45:07 PM »
Hey Caddy,
Sorry for the delay.

Looking at the schematic, I see a worm gear clamp on the hose where it connects to the pump, correct? No glue should be needed there.
However, the upper part that attaches to the tub appears to just pop in place with the rubber lip holding it in place?
37
Washer Repair / Re: Whirlpool Cabrio washer
« Last post by andyf80 on September 02, 2015, 10:32:56 PM »
Hi DMV,
Sorry for the delay.
The board is fairly was to get to on your model. You'll have 4-6 Phillips screws on the back of the board housing.
I recommend taking the control housing off and use your nose to see if the smell is concentrated from that area.  You can take the board box apart, but i think all the components are sealed up in a rubber cement type substance so it probably won't tell you much to look at it.

Let us know if you can smell that burning smell stronger near the board.
38
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Whirlpool stove, Model GR465LXLS 1, Error E4-F3
« Last post by Joey Bullock on September 02, 2015, 10:10:11 PM »
I have a Whirlpool electric stove, Model GR465LXLS1 that doesn't bake very well unless temperature is set to a higher than normal temp.  The oven bakes for a while and sometimes it beeps and gives an Error Code E4-F3.  Most info I've read says to check and replace temp sensor.  I haven't found anyone who has had a bad sensor.  They say to replace the "board".  Which board needs to be replaced?  I checked with my local parts supply and they say the Electronic Control Board, part number 8523297 is not available and the Range Touch Control Board, part number 9755076, substitute 6610333R is available.  I'm not sure how to proceed.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks, Joey Bullock
39
Washer Repair / Re: Crosley washer lid lock and spin problems
« Last post by Yournamehere90 on September 02, 2015, 08:31:12 PM »
According to the tech sheet, it looks like the control unit. Anything else to try first? 
40
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Whirlpool refrigerator will not run suddenly
« Last post by snrusnak on September 02, 2015, 08:15:17 PM »
Thanks!

So I checked voltage at the starter relay on the compressor with the fridge plugged in and it's showing 0.  So even if the relay is faulty, there's something else wrong as well.  I started tearing into the fridge to access the thermostat but it was late and I ran out of light (no lights in my shop...)

My multi meter appears to be working:





I assume the "1" means infinite...

The only pins that give any reading other than 1 are these two:





These give a 0.4 ohm (0).  Taking the relay apart reveals they are actually the same piece of metal, so that makes sense.

This white piece makes a rattling noise...

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