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31
Washer Repair / Affinity-poor washing quality
« Last post by trailer-tech on June 23, 2016, 10:22:57 AM »
I bought Frigidaire washer FAFW4011LW0 in 2012 and pretty much since beginning we were complaining about how this front loader works. I don't know how exactly it should work but here is how i see it. Washer doesn't spin all the time, actually 60% of time drum just stays and does nothing... Or maybe I'm just so unlucky that almost always when I look on washer drum doesn't spin, clothes lie in water. Like it waits for something. Then when it is time to spin, I can hear it and I always see it. This part definitely works. There is almost no water inside. Clothes come wet after whole cycle as normal but they are not clean enough. Since 2 years I started to leave washer open after doing laundry and wipe dry seal. I also use bleach and do cleaning cycle once a month. The smell stopped but it is still there... Seal still has some small grayish marks of mildew/ mold.
So is there anything i can do ? I was thinking if there is some kind of filter inside washer which might cause some smell and poor washing power.

Today I googled diagnostic procedure for affinity.
Quote
Section 2 Washing Machines
2-14
Affinity Diagnostic Mode
* The diagnostic test is used to check individual component function only.
*Turn the program knob to the start position (far
left
cycle).
*Press the
Start/Pause
button to start the cycle and save it.
*Press the
Cancel
button to stop the cycle and turn off the LEDís.
*Press the
Cancel
button again to turn on the LEDís.
*Within 5 seconds, press and hold the
Options
and
Start/Cancel
buttons until LEDís start flashing, then release buttons.
1. All the LEDís will flash. Pressing a button below a light cluster will light all the LEDís in that cluster at one time to
confirm functionality.
2. Turn the program knob (1) click clockwise from the start position. The hot water solenoid will activate and hot water
will enter through the detergent compartment.
3. Turn the program knob (2) clicks from the start position. The bleach water solenoid will activate and cold water
should enter through the bleach compartment.
4. Turn the program knob (3) clicks from the start position. The bleach and the wash water solenoids will activate and
cold water should enter through the softener compartment.
5. Turn the program knob (4) clicks from the start position. The door lock solenoid will deactivate and the loading door
can be opened.
6. Turn the program knob (5) clicks from the start position. The washer will fill and tumble. Once tumbling has
started, the boost heater (if so equiped) will turn on.
7. Turn the program knob (6) clicks from the start position. The drain pump and door lock solenoid will activate.
To enable high spin, press the
Delay Start
button.
8. Turn the program knob (7) clicks from the start position. The control will signal the last error code.                     
So I started diagnostic mode, I tried every "knob click position" for 5sec and i was moving to next one. At the end I received 3 error codes: E00, E53, EF2.
EF2 Too much soap
Advise the customer to reduce the amount of soap they are using.
E53 Low voltage to Speed Control Board.
Check the wiring between the Main Control Board and the
Speed Control Board. If good, replace the Speed Control Board.
E00 No error code is stored

I dont know if I should wait more on every "knob click position" but maybe I should think about that board. It costs around $170... I will check wiring of course but this is a lot of money...
What do you guys think? Do you know diagnostic procedures? Did I do it right?                 
What this board actually do? Is it needed in my situation?
Someone adviced me to replaced door lock
Quote
Your model is known for bad door locks that will not let them nkt spin. Bad door locks will let washer agitate but will just sit there in spin. Lock is fairly easy to change.                 
Will this really help?
33
Washer Repair / Ge Hotpoint Rubber Tub Straps HTWP1400 and others
« Last post by etbrown4 on June 23, 2016, 09:47:50 AM »
Al of this series has the same chassis. They have the same tub and the same tub straps. Typically the straps will stretch and then the tub bangs the sides. In the store you can move one by hand and it moves left and right but no banging. With new straps mine still bangs, unless I bend a heavy radius in each strap. I doubt seriously the radius will stay at each end, IE the straps are highly likely to straighten out and the banging will start again. With many thousands of these sold, there must be an answer or solution, as it is not rare Anyone who has replaced these straps on HTWP1400, all models will know what I am talking about.  Tips appreciated
34
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Ice is stuck, not dispensing
« Last post by sukevin on June 23, 2016, 08:58:05 AM »
This fridge has 2 ice makers. One in the door and one in the freezer. The one in freezer is fine. The water dispenser is also good. Ive tried resetting the ice maker. I also got a new ice maker. Both are doing the same problem. It makes ice but it gets stuck and doesn't fall down. I've attached a picture.

Any ideas whats causing this?

Samsung RFG298HDRS


35
Dishwasher Repair / GE dishwasher leak detection reset
« Last post by schleven on June 23, 2016, 08:53:48 AM »
I cleared some crap out of a GE dishwasher drain pump the other day, now the customer says that the display says "leak detected" might be leaking, might not, im going to check.


I don't have the model number handy, but does anyone know how to reset the computer to clear the error?


It ran fine when I was there, no error. 


I remember seeing a plug connected to the metal tray below the dishwasher. I assume that is the leak detection.


Thanks
36
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: Ge electric Convention oven goes dead
« Last post by dab147315 on June 23, 2016, 08:01:26 AM »
Thanks for letting us know the problem is fixed. O0
37
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: Ge electric Convention oven goes dead
« Last post by felber on June 23, 2016, 07:29:36 AM »
Thank you for all the help

With the provided information and a meter I was able to find the open and repair the oven .
The repair was easy, finding the intermittent open was the hardest but made possible by the provided information
Thanks again
No longer hungry
38
Thank you Rick for confirming, that is what I suspected. Your expert help is very much appreciated!
Just to follow up. I replaced the control unit as suggested by Rick, and this fixed my problem. Feeling grateful.
40
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: Ge electric Convention oven goes dead
« Last post by olyteddy on June 22, 2016, 08:51:50 PM »
The Mini Manual and schematic for most GE wall ovens is behind the control panel. Most of the time the control panel is held in place by three screws at the top of the oven door frame. You can also enter the complete model number in the Appliance Parts Search box at the top of the page and it will take you to the parts blow up diagrams.  :welcome:
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