Recent Posts

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
Tools, Equipment & Other Products / Re: The PASS or FAIL tool topic...
« Last post by MajorApp on October 18, 2014, 10:51:08 PM »
Washer Repair / Re: Whirlpool Cabrio WTW7600XW2
« Last post by tgoods on October 18, 2014, 10:20:29 PM »
I'd say it's definitely worth it, if you're fixing it yourself. Here's a tool rental on ebay for $22.99. You get all new parts, including the drive shaft, in the kit.  I don't think there are any improvements to the parts.  Use the proper amount of HE detergent. If you use the washer a lot or have lots of sand, you'll probably have to do it again in four years.

Tools, Equipment & Other Products / Re: The PASS or FAIL tool topic...
« Last post by theoldstoveguy on October 18, 2014, 08:30:16 PM »
I purchased a Klein 11 in 1 screwdriver only because it was made in the USA and now I really like it. I have had it for 6 months and find it is nice for the up 17 flights of stairs calls. It has 3 nut drivers and multiple square and torx bits built in as the usual bits as well. Very handy and well made as well as comfortable rubber grip. Very much a pass. Wish it was magnetic but you can't have it all. Also have the stubby Klein and not as many bits but nice as well.
Washer Repair / Re: Whirlpool washer will not agitate
« Last post by dab147315 on October 18, 2014, 08:29:51 PM »
Post your model number you might get more help.Possible dogs inside agitator
Let it run over night and then check frost pattern.
I have posted a problem with my frig tonight.  Providentially as I was writing the post for the frig problem my wife yells to me that the oven door opened after it ignited like something had blown up inside.  My immediate guess was that the igniter came on after the gas had already been flowing.  My son did a quick google on it and found that the igniter is probably the problem.  The text below in blue and italics is from this link

"Gas Smell and/or Mini-Explosions in the Oven

Ignitors do age and will eventually generate less heat than they normally should. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this occurs, gas released into the oven can result in a gas smell or sometimes even build up to the point where when finally ignited, the extra amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven.

In the latter case, the oven should be removed from use until the condition can be looked into and corrected. DO NOT continue to use a gas appliance in such a condition!"

What do you think.  Is this good advice?  I am assuming it is and I should replace the oven burner bake igniter part # WB13K0021.  If there are other things I should look at please give me your thoughts.  As of right now we have shut the oven down and will not use it until I can at least change out the ignitor unless others tell me that it could be something else.  Thanks for your help.
Washer Repair / Whirlpool washer will not agitate
« Last post by manbearpig304 on October 18, 2014, 07:04:36 PM »
The washer will fill with water, spin, and drain. When the washer should be agitating the motor sounds like it is running. The motor coupler looks to be fine. Any help will be appreciated.
Also just to add to this.  the fans are running properly.  The condenser fan is working properly and the evaporator fan is working properly.  The evaporator fan is just blowing warm air.  The water in the crevice from the evaporator coils is freezing but that is most likely due to the fact that the evaporator coils are frosting up at the bottom but that is it.
I posted a problem I had on this forum a little over 2 years ago and you can find it here:  I was amazed that the post has been read almost 5500 times!  I hope that it was helpful to people.

The frig has been running fine but in the last couple of months it was leaking some water out of the freezer.  I turned off the water to the frig to see if the ice maker was leaking.  It still leaked.  I thought that the drain tube was clear as well but I have not had time to work on it.  I had to take a business trip and my wife called me and said that the frig was starting to freeze up.  It is always when you are away that these things happen.  She said she had turned it all the way down but things were still freezing.  I got home yesterday and started to take a look at it today.  We pulled everything apart in the freezer and found that the drain pipe was clogged so that answered why we were getting water coming out of the freezer.  Cleaned that out so it was flowing properly.

However after taking care of that and putting it all back together and letting it run for an hour the freezer will not get below 50 F in the top of it.  Down at the bottom it gets to 30 F.  I took off the panel covering the coils and it looks like only the bottom coils are frosting up.  I can touch the top ones and they are warm.  see the attached pictures.  I have read that if the coils only partially frost up that the sealed system has a problem and that you should just get a new refrigerator.  I am guessing because the cost of fixing the sealed system is not worth it.  Is that a proper assessment or is there something else I should be looking at?

Thanks for the help.
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10