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« Last post by schleven on February 20, 2017, 08:03:42 PM »
I have a customer with a KSSC48QVS02 refrigerator that wasn't cooling in the fridge. freezer seemed pretty good.
no airflow through the damper assembly. damper was open. When freezer door opened, air flow felt.
pulled back cover off the evaporator and noticed some frost build up. mainly on the right hand side, where the air from the fridge comes in and across the bottom. Not the usual defrost problem frost pattern.
I checked the defrost tstat and the heater, both good.
I am assuming the fridge door got left open a crack.
If not, which board controls the defrost in this unit?
« Last post by jda4874 on February 20, 2017, 07:33:47 PM »
I have a GE front load washer model WBVH6240FWW that we bought around ten years ago. Lately (over the last ~year) it doesn't respond with each button push, mostly the start button. In other words, I have to push the button a few times--usually a solid push--before it operates. But it has always worked.
Today I have a new issue. The panel says "door locked" when it isn't locked. Then if I press start the "door locked" will turn off and the machine will click a few times like it's trying to lock but it can't. After a few attempts it stopped clicking but never started operating.
I've unplugged it a few times to try to reset it. I have also tried to enter it into service mode. It beeps like it's going into service mode but no codes show up. What does show is the "door locked" light again.
So I'm guessing it's a faulty control board. But could it be the door lock assembly? I don't want to replace one of its the other, especially at the cost of the control board.
Thank you for your time!
« Last post by ecarfar on February 20, 2017, 07:28:18 PM »
Saw a post on this form a couple of years ago but I thought I'd start a new one.... I've had this fridge for almost six years, never had a temperature problem. For the last few months I noticed the milk was going bad WAY before its expiration date. I put a thermometer in the fridge and it read 50 degrees! I've unplugged it to reset it, cleaned the coils, did a self test...nothing. I set the temperature to 34 degrees and, initially, the indicated temperature says it's 50 degrees in the fridge (on the display) but it slowly goes down to 34, matching what I have it set at...only problem is that the temperature in the fridge is 48 degrees so the temp is not lowering! Absolutely no problem with the freezer so I'm assuming it's a sensor problem or a calibration issue? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
« Last post by ecarfar on February 20, 2017, 07:25:33 PM »
That's exactly what's happening to me now. I've had this fridge for almost six years, never had a temperature problem. For the last few months I noticed the milk was going bad WAY before its expiration date. I put a thermometer in the fridge and it read 50 degrees! I've unplugged it to reset it, cleaned the coils, did a self test...nothing. I set the temperature to 34 degrees and, initially, the indicated temperature says 50 degrees on the display but it slowly goes down to 34, matching what I have it set at...only problem is that the temperature in the fridge is 48 degrees! Absolutely no problem with the freezer so I'm assuming it's a sensor problem or a calibration issue? Any ideas?
« Last post by Blaiser on February 20, 2017, 04:02:53 PM »
Looking into my Buddies 4 Door Stainless Steel LG Fridge for him. He says this LG 4 Door Fridge Model#LMX25981ST is Leaking water out of the Bottom Freezer compartment on to the floor. He thinks its the indoor icemaker and says there are sometimes sheets of ice layering the bottom freezer compartment along with dripping water in front of Fridge?
I'm thinking blocked drain in bottom freezer? Is this Fridge part of the new kit that LG wants you to install because the drain line freezes over and there's no where for the water to go after defrost mode? Please inform. Thank You for the help.
« Last post by dab147315 on February 20, 2017, 01:56:05 PM »
If the lint filter is on top it comes apart like in this video of installing blower wheel. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-wheel-wp694089-ap6010602.html
« Last post by Mwissenz on February 20, 2017, 01:35:29 PM »
Have an old kenmore 80 series dead dryer wondering how to take it apart, as my sister is certain she's lost a ring in there. The back is off but not sure how to go about or where to even look for a ring please help
« Last post by ameritech on February 20, 2017, 10:24:55 AM »
« Last post by angelo on February 20, 2017, 09:45:35 AM »
dryer started shuting off 5 sec after starting in all modes unplugged and try to enter diagnostics couldnt get in had wrong sequence after messing around with it for a while i tryed it again and it worked for about 6-8 more loads and started doing the same thing, I got right seqence to get into diagnostics and it showed e12 drum motor so i got a new drum motor put it in and the same thing starts for few sec and shuts off please advise what i should check now thanx and have a great day
The inlet and outlet thermistors test OK with ohmeter and applied heat. In the diagnostics when I ran the blower exhuast test it has a current RPM value and says it is detecting I let it run 20 min and it was still detecting the value stayed at zero. When I ran the inlet thermister test the drum turned fine 30 sec in each direction several times each way. And the outlet thermistor moisture test showed 4.995 v. what else cam I test.
« Last post by dab147315 on February 20, 2017, 09:26:19 AM »
Frigidaire tech sheets can be found at this site by yourself.Also note some of the parts manual on this site at the end of the page is also a tech sheet. Sears appliance made by Frigidaire will also show up to.Remember to use the period after the third number to show up though. http://b2b.frigidaire.com/support/manuals.asp?NewSearch=New+Search
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