Free Service - Appliance Repair Help & Troubleshooting

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The truck is not the problem.  It is the tool bag.  My right arm is 5 inches longer, and the chiropracter is planning his boat payments around my work schedule! :2funny:
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Washer Repair / Re: Whirlpool washing machine only works on spin cycle
« Last post by sheetmetaldan on August 26, 2016, 04:00:05 PM »
Ok Thanks Patricio I`ll search for ATC switch see what I find.
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Dishwasher Repair / Re: Bosch Dishwasher Not heating Water
« Last post by scrapiron on August 26, 2016, 03:27:00 PM »
The switch you are describing, I think, is the flow switch in the heater housing. It's purpose is to make sure there is water in the machine and that it's being pumped at a proper rate before the heater is energized. It keeps the heater from melting things down. The proper water level should be just a little less than 1 " above the flat metal screen in the bottom of the tub.  It sounds like you have the proper amount of water. It wouldn't hurt to check for 120 volts AC coming out of the control at the point when it's supposed to be heating. Measure between neutral (white) and the red wire on plug 7 on the control. It's a 2 wire plug with a gray and a red wire. Since I'm assuming you have made sure that the filter screens are clean, the next thing to look at would be the wash pump. check for debris clogging the wash impeller or a damaged (separated) impeller. Anything that could affect the flow of water from the wash pump could cause that. I'll also attach a copy of the service info for that model. Good luck.
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Chit Chat / Re: The world's last VCR will be manufactured this month
« Last post by deekin on August 26, 2016, 11:33:52 AM »
Pause, rewind, play..... Repeat  :oops:
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Thanks a bunch for the reply and especially the video link. I was hoping it wasn't the control board but it is seeming more likely the culprit. Do you know of any way to test if is the control board for sure? By process of elimination with the heater, thermistor, and defrost thermostat it seems that the control board is the only thing left to replace but I would like to be sure seeing that it is $200 CAD.
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They had many problems with them and you will have to program it when you get it. and this is the part number same as in the video.  WPW10503278
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It is in the fresh food section like in this video.
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I am having a defrost cycle issue with my Kenmore bottom mount freezer (Model #: 596.69283011).

The freezer is working, but fridge gets warm. Even before this happens I can tell it is going to happen with extra frost on freezer items and really hard ice cream. Also I usually find some frost on the back vent in the top part of the fridge too.

The compressor seems to be running fine and the back fan near the compressor does as well. Removing the back panel in the drawer freezer reveals that the coils are completely iced up. Blower Fan from freezer into fridge is free of ice and is still working.

I have manually defrosted 6-8 times so far and fridge seems to work fine after (sometimes for as little as a 1 week, sometimes as much a month or so).

My amateur troubleshooting to date:
- Tested defrost heater: continuity test showed between 0-50 (something like 30 or 40). Shouldn't be the problem.
- Tested thermistor: continuity test, room temp test was 6.8k ohms and ice water test was around 28k ohms. Shouldn't be the problem.
- Tested defrost thermostat: continuity test in glass of ice water didn’t give a reading, replaced this part with brand new. After almost a month, same issue again. Warm fridge and coils blocked up with ice.

I keep reading about the timer and I do not know where that is located on my fridge model. I am assuming it is not a mechanical timer and would mean replacing a circuit board?

I am currently at a loss…any help REALLY appreciated. This manual defrosting is getting old.
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Dishwasher Repair / Re: Bosch Dishwasher Not heating Water
« Last post by met on August 26, 2016, 07:03:23 AM »
First off, thank you for the help.  I truly appreciate it.  And I understand the difficulty of troubleshooting over the phone.  I worked as a technical support guy for many years for large machines that make computer chips.  I would get calls and emails all the time from our service techs to help them troubleshoot.  It is not an easy job to resolve issues without being able to see what is actually happening.  I appreciate the help you are giving me. 

I am not sure if you looked at the video or not, but since I see the plunger engage and then disengage, I think this is telling me I have a pressure problem. 

Since the pump is running, not getting hot, and the impeller looks fine, I suspect the pump is good. To get low pressure in the heater assembly, I think one of the following would be wrong. 
1)  Not enough water.  If I don't have enough water in system, then I could see the pressure dropping
2)  Leak down stream after the heater assembly.  If the spray arm wasn't providing enough back pressure, then the pressure in the heater would fall.  I have looked for issues of this but have not been able to find anything

Your idea of two much water I had not considered but is a viable option as well.  Not sure if there is anything else. 

I think the question I have is how much water should be in the bottom of the dishwasher when I run it?  Should there be water in the tub or just the sump assembly?  I feel like the only system I have not verified is the fill. 

I have opened the door mid cycle and there is not a ton of water in the bottom, (So I don't think the lower spray arm is under water or restricted)  It actually seems rather empty to me.  How much water should be in there?  Should there be water sitting in the bottom of the dishwasher out of the sump? 


Thanks,

Mike

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There could be a problem with the thermostat and the vent. I had a similar problem when I bought the refrigerator from best brand appliance. Make sure that the temperature control dial inside the refrigerator is not turned down. Also make sure that the vents in the refrigerator and freezer are not blocked by any food containers because these vents supply the flow of frigid air. Other methods you could try out is by cleaning the coils and by freeing up the condenser fan. Most refrigerator now a days have coils underneath, these coils can be blocked by trash or could get plugged in with dust.So it is good to clean them periodically.
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