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Most likely, the water line up through the door is frozen.  I thaw them very carefully with a hair dryer blowing against the inner freezer door being careful to keep the airflow from heating too much in any one spot.  (the plastic softens and warps easily).  Good luck!
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Disconnect the 3 pin connector from the secondary (output) of the transformer. Use an ohm meter and check for shorts to ground on the red and white wires going to the ignitor circuit. Pinched wire, ignitor switch or spark module shorted to ground would be the most likely cause.
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Hola,desde ARGENTINA,estoy tratando de encontrar el manual de servicio de esta maquina LG GR-P228ZGB ,por mas que lo busque por los sitios conocidos no lo encuentro, tengo un problema con la fabricadora que no se activa desde el boton de prueba y necesito el manual para seguir los cables y descartar problemas.
Soy un tecnico calificado y entiendo lo que estoy preguntando,la ficha me desconcierta ya que tiene 10 cables ,2 del termistor, 2 del interruptor ,pero me quedan 6 y no se por cuales mandarles los 12v para activarla afuera y probarla.
Agradecere cualquier ayuda,gracias


GOOGLE TRANSLATOR



Hello, from ARGENTINA, I am trying to find the service manual of this machine LG GR-P228ZGB, for more that look for the known sites I do not find it, I have a problem with the manufacturer that is not activated from the test button and I need the manual to follow the cables and rule out problems.
I am a qualified technician and I understand what I am asking, the chip baffles me since it has 10 wires, 2 of the thermistor, 2 of the switch, but I have 6 and I do not know why to send them 12v to activate it outside and test it.
Thanks any help, thanks
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Would anyone have any idea why the water would be entering the freezer door but not out the water dispenser?

I removed the plastic hose coupling under the door and when I press the dispense button water comes and has full pressure, so water valve is functioning.

I cant see from the parts diagram is there any other valves involved inside the door itself. The water tank in the fridge section did crack and was replaced, could the hose inside the door be clogged or something?

Anyone has instructions on how to remove the water dispenser assembly and get into the door to have a look?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks to everyone.
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Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: blown transformer why? in GE ZGU385NSM2SS
« Last post by schleven on December 08, 2016, 09:23:57 PM »
That's a good idea, I'll check that when I go back next week.
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Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: blown transformer why? in GE ZGU385NSM2SS
« Last post by afterblast on December 08, 2016, 08:32:18 PM »
That's new to me...   ??? if you check between the wires going to each burner and ground do you get continuity on any of them?  I know it jumps spark to ground, but perhaps instead of intermittent sparks it's got a constant path for voltage preventing it from building spark at any of the burners?   Or perhaps one of those other wires is getting voltage from somewhere else and it's running 120 into the wrong part of the spark module as well as the normal connection?  Sounds like a weird one..   good luck
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Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / blown transformer why? in GE ZGU385NSM2SS
« Last post by schleven on December 08, 2016, 08:04:53 PM »
Have a customer who is not getting spark or clicking to his five burner GE cooktop. 
I opened it up and noticed that there was no power coming out of the transformer.
I checked and there was 120 volts going into the transformer.


I replaced the transformer and it didnt work.  However, I smelled something burning and noticed (after reopening the stovetop) that the new transformer was smoking hot.


What would cause the transformer to do that?  Never seen this before.


Thanks



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Washer Repair / Re: LG Washer WM2016CW/01 Smoking - No Errors
« Last post by Blaiser on December 08, 2016, 07:17:33 PM »
 Let us know what you find.
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Dishwasher Repair / GE dishwasher PDWF480P00SS
« Last post by dentdaddy on December 08, 2016, 06:26:31 PM »
The dishwasher will never stop it's cycle. Doesn't matter which cycle it is in. [/size]Last summer I replaced the main PCB and turbidity sensor (thermistor) for the same issue. They say it has worked fine until a few days ago. My questions is, which item is "usually" the issue in this type problem?Also, when I reassembled the unit and reapplied power it is supposed to "recalibrate" for 6 minutes +/-. It did not do that, AND the touchpad was unresponsive. I left the house with the unit inoperable. Now IDK if I need to order the touchpad, and both other parts or what...Help if you can. Thanks in advance.
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Washer Repair / Re: Whirpool Commercial Top Load Washer (CAE2743BQ0) NO Lights are On
« Last post by pedalbin on December 08, 2016, 06:08:01 PM »
I have also tried the approach with the pressure transducer connection: http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=18438.10 but that also did not help.
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