« Last post by john63 on March 05, 2015, 02:53:33 PM »
<<< I am running the timed dry cycle with nothing in the dryer, but I have never had an issue on other dryers when testing them in this manner. >>>
Nor have I---in the TIMED DRY mode---the dryer should complete the cycle.
<<< Its is an overstock/return unit from Home Depot. >>>
I had an LG dryer 3 weeks ago---built/sold in 2007 (Sear scratch & dent store).
Customer complaint was "strong burning odor"
After disassembling the dryer---it was obvious what the problem was.
Another "tech" had failed to properly install the Heater Case/Housing into the duct.
Massive lint accumulation had built up inside the dryer---and eventually the lint ignited (smolder)
In other instances---I've seen the heater housing incorrectly mounted---and leaning against the rear bulkhead---causing at 90% air flow restriction.
The dryer symptoms were---that there was heavy moisture accumulation on the door glass and surrounding area---as well as shutting down/off during the cycle (due to heat build-up internally).
The motor thermally shut down.
After a period of cooling-off---the dryer would re-start again.
Have you examined the Heater Housing?
« Last post by TPerkins on March 05, 2015, 02:41:23 PM »
Ive elevated the rear feet, no change.
Ive visually inspected the exhaust tube of the unit, and it is spotless. Again, this unit is brand new. Its is an overstock/return unit from Home Depot.
I am running the timed dry cycle with nothing in the dryer, but I have never had an issue on other dryers when testing them in this manner.
That website doesnt look to be working anymore john63.
« Last post by john63 on March 05, 2015, 02:13:14 PM »
<<< Trying to develop some test methods to evaluate durability of products. >>>
In the mid-to-late 90s---we were contracted by a lab technician at the Dupont Company---to repair Kenmore top load washers (and dryers) that were used for durability testing of Dupont's fabric protection coating(s).
The objective was to determine at which point that the protective material---degraded/loss effectiveness.
Obviously this required extended run times (one cycle at a time)---and led to accelerated wear & tear of various components.
Our job was to repair the laundry equipment as needed.
Four washers and dryers were used for testing.
One of the requirements that the technician had to consider in her test parameters---was to choose a type of laundry washer that was widely used in residential applications---the Kenmore direct drive top load washer certainly was a very commonly used washer at the time.
Today---the prevalence of front loading washers is ever expanding (and may even be the majority of residential type washers currently in use).
The Maytag "dependable care" top loading washer---has been discontinued since the 90s (for residential use).
I'd suggest using the LG front load washer---to allow for more accurate "real world" data on the durability of the product that you're testing.
No modifications to the washer are needed/required.
As an example---the LG washer model: WM3370xxx can be used for tumble-wash testing for as long as desired by performing the following steps...
1) Add laundry to be tested
2) Add detergent (if required)
3) Press and hold the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons
4) Press the POWER button---and release all 3 buttons
5) Wait for door to lock (single "click" sound)
TO FILL THE WASHER WITH...
Cold Water---press the START/PAUSE button 5 times---at one second intervals
Hot Water----press the START/PAUSE button one more time (6th time)
To enter the tumble-wash mode---press the START/PAUSE button an 8th time.
This will force the tub to tumble the laundry at approx. 42 RPMs---for as long as desired.
To exit the TEST MODE...
1) Turn off washer
2) Turn on washer
3) Select the SPIN SPEED option to the desired speed
4) Press the START/PAUSE button (this is the equivalent of a "cancel" cycle)
« Last post by Nightcop on March 05, 2015, 01:02:58 PM »
Sorry. The complete number is WFW9470WW01
« Last post by dab147315 on March 05, 2015, 12:29:33 PM »
You need complete model number off machine.
« Last post by john63 on March 05, 2015, 12:29:08 PM »
<<< Im getting the d90 error and the flow sense issue. >>>
Usually caused by a restricted exhaust vent (in the home).
I would inspect the Heater Housing---to verify that it has been properly installed at the factory.
On occasion---the housing may not be attached to the duct---and this could result in a restrictive air flow issue.
<<< I'm testing the unit on timed dry(40 minutes)/high heat, and the unit will shut down after about 10 minutes. >>>
Should not occur in the TIMED DRY setting.
However---in the SENSOR DRY mode---the dryer *will* turn off after a few minutes if the drum is empty (no moisture detected).
Alternately---if a very small load of wet laundry has been tossed into the drum---the cycle will terminate/shut down---if the dryer is either dead-level or is higher at the front than the rear (wet clothing not falling onto moisture sensor).
If this were the case---the solution is to raise the rear legs of the dryer---about an inch higher than the front---to force smaller loads of laundry to tumble towards the front of the drum (where the moisture sensor is located).
Service Manuals (and Service Bulletins) can be found at lg.techassist.com (for non-authorized servicers).
« Last post by Nightcop on March 05, 2015, 11:47:47 AM »
I have had this machine about 4 years. Noticed a few days ago it sounded different during the spin. Today I found a small amount of water on the floor under the washer. I also noticed that I no longer hear the liquid sloshing sound when I turn the drum by hand. I was told when I bought it that the liquid helped balance the drum.
I assume that somehow this liquid has drained from where it was but I have no idea where or if I can replace the part?
Can anyone help?
« Last post by TPerkins on March 05, 2015, 11:38:22 AM »
Looking for a service manual for this LG Dryer. Im getting the d90 error and the flow sense issue. This dryer is brand new and being tested with no dryer vent attached to it. Wondering if there is something besides the main board that can be causing this issue? I'm testing the unit on timed dry(40 minutes)/high heat, and the unit will shut down after about 10 minutes.
« Last post by kingmissel on March 05, 2015, 09:34:38 AM »
Put a new hall sensor in, tried the 0-4 vdc test and still came up zero. I then Ohm'd the 4 wire connector and all 4 wires are ok from 1 connector to the other. So, I ran a quick spin test in test mode. It finally went high speed (over 100 RPM's), so I stopped the test short assuming it was fixed. Did a rinse and spin cycle with some clothes and it DC errors again. Doesn't even attempt high speed.
Looking for more ideas, not sure why the turning drum by hand test won't give me any voltage on that harness.
« Last post by LowSL2 on March 05, 2015, 09:01:01 AM »
That switch is a ground switch. It shouldn't affect the motor control.
I'm at a loss. I'm going to assume loose connection somewhere on the MI3 harness. Or a loose connection at the door lock.