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11
Washer Repair / Re: LG washer - WM2301HR - No Power
« Last post by Rob2000 on July 29, 2015, 11:00:29 PM »
Nothing else has ever been replaced/repaired.  Never noticed any of the 5 before it went dead.  But now have the growling/"haltingly" motion of the drum.

in previous post:
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=8065.msg38198#msg38198

you had suggested a hall sensor for a "growling" sound.  Since the ohms didn't line up, should I replace the hall sensor too? 

Is the harness you mentioned for the motor or hall sensor or both?  Wonder if I damaged a wire pulling it out?
12
Washer Repair / Re: LG washer - WM2301HR - No Power
« Last post by john63 on July 29, 2015, 10:44:38 PM »
No other parts/components were replaced previously?

If the STATOR and ROTOR are original---then the EBR32268019 Main Board *should* be the correct replacement (info on LG website)

There are differences in software ---in Main Boards built Dec 2009 and newer

Since the washer is about 5 years old---I would replace the Motor Wire Harness (6877ER1016F)

This harness moves/bends/stretches during every cycle (especially spin cycles)

And are prone to developing internal wire failure---broken strands of wiring.

Symptoms frequently seen are...

1) Growling noise

2) Tub rotates haltingly/stops

3) "0" character displayed during spin cycle

4) Intermittent "LE" error displayed/interrupted cycle

5) Clothing very wet at end of cycle
13
Washer Repair / Re: LG washer - WM2301HR - No Power
« Last post by Rob2000 on July 29, 2015, 10:27:46 PM »
I bought at a local appliance store.

Looks like this matches the part number on repairclinic.com; the online place did not ask to specify a serial number or date built.

Could not find on applianceparts.com

original was EBR32268007
14
Washer Repair / Re: LG washer - WM2301HR - No Power
« Last post by Rob2000 on July 29, 2015, 10:21:43 PM »
No, they gave me EBR32268019...
15
Washer Repair / Re: LG washer - WM2301HR - No Power
« Last post by john63 on July 29, 2015, 10:09:07 PM »
Built October 2009.

Verify that the replacement Main Board is the correct one for your washer build-date.

Correct Main Board (EBR32268007)

Incorrect Main Board (EBR32268014)---is used on WM2301 models built from December 2009 and newer---Serial Numbers beginning with 912KWxxx
16
Washer Repair / Re: LG washer - WM2301HR - No Power
« Last post by Rob2000 on July 29, 2015, 09:35:06 PM »
910KWJU03452
17
Washer Repair / Re: LG washer - WM2301HR - No Power
« Last post by john63 on July 29, 2015, 09:26:18 PM »
What is the Serial Number?
18
Washer Repair / Re: LG washer - WM2301HR - No Power
« Last post by Rob2000 on July 29, 2015, 09:10:29 PM »
Thanks for the detailed answers.

I have now replaced the noise filter ($43), measured no power before; measured power now!
Replaced the main board ($170), was not getting red light or anything else; now shows signs of life!  Get the red light, can start washing cycles.

However, now I get a strange sound when the motor is turning.  A grinding sound at one point, and then as if it is misfiring, or the sound of a slipping gear (direct drive so no gears, but that is the best I can describe it).  2-4 clicks per second.  It did a few of the half-turns while filling with water and adding soap.  And then did the clicking/grinding/thing when it seamed to be speeding up.   fearing loss of another board, I shut it down.

One thing I hadn't checked before was the hall sensor.  The service manual said 8-12 kohms from 1-2 and 1-3.  One was dead on 10 kohms.  The other seemed inconsistent and high.  20-60 kohms.  I was not 100% sure i had the leads in good, but swapped back and forth and repeated with the 1-2 and 1-3 pins.

I hadn't done the voltage check on the hall sensor since the main board was bad. 

Is the hall sensor bad? Do I need to do the voltage checks to know?

I checked the ohms on the motor and all in were in range.

Is it time to give up and call a tech?

Thank you again!
19
Washer Repair / whirlpool GSQ9669LW1
« Last post by DMVAppSolutions on July 29, 2015, 07:07:17 PM »
Got a whirlpool ultra care 2 that has a burnt electrical smell to it. It fills but thats it. from that im thinking lid switch. But the burning smell is a mystery. Im going to check it tomorrow. Just want to be prepared. How do I check if the motor is burnt out?
20
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Refrigerator modification
« Last post by manoweb on July 29, 2015, 06:57:01 PM »
Hello - sorry for the unorthodox request, but in short I was wondering if I could modify a regular kitchen refrigerator or maybe a small chest freezer to heat up inside instead of cooling down.

In theory, if I:
- remove and collect the refrigerant
- cut open the fluid lines and insert a 4-way "reversing valve"
- carefully solder the valve
- create vacuum and re-fill with refrigerant
- make the necessary electrical connections, those would not be a problem

I should be able to switch between "cool down" and "heat up" modes. I assume the thermostat will be replaced and the compressor controlled by something suitable.

Is this crazy or could it work in practice? What comes to mind is that:
- the "internal" tubing of the evaporator might not be designed to work on the high-pressure side
- the capillary tube might not work "reversed"

??? Any opinion???  :D
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