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   OTR Micro,  blew quickly (there are two fuses)
   Replaced shorted cap w/used - within .02uf, w/ matching diode.
 Days later, low power; "HVT" fuse not full voltage at both ends (weird).
   1 month later; ran, no heat. I removed control panel, tried for at least 5 minutes to heat a coffee, "Main" and "HVT" fuses 120v both ends.
   So I replaced the panel and left for work. Cooking attempts were made, lights/power/display quit. Found "Main" fuse blown.
   Next test, the "HVT" blew in a few seconds.   
  I moved mw to bench and tested using an old Triplett 630-PLK type 6 w/ two batteries (one is 30v), and a Radio Shack 22-221 (analog).
  MAG filament; 0 Ω. Filament to chassis; ∞ (both meters).
  CAP; R/S - 200k to ∞ both ways. Triplett (x100k range) - near 0 to 9000k (both ways). Should go nearer 0? And to ∞, not 9 mega-ohm?
  DIODE; R/S - ∞ both ways. Triplett (x100k range) 85k one way, ∞ other. Should be less than 85k? (wouldn't blow fuse if open though) 
  HVT Filament winding - 0 Ω. Filament to chassis - ∞ (both meters).
  Secondary - R/S; 350Ω, Triplett; 500Ω (mw paper says "Approx. 90Ω).
  Primary; This has three wires at primary; blk, wh, and a blue between them. Apparently the blue's tapped in the middle for "low" power? It goes through the "HV" fuse to a relay that has the other wire white. The paper found in the mw simply says "Primary winding Approx. .3Ω".
  wh/blk; R/S - 0Ω. Triplett - .6 Ω, then trips "protection" button.
  wh/blu; R/S - 0Ω. Triplett - .2 Ω.
  blu/blk; R/S - .5 Ω. Triplett - .5 Ω then trips "protection" button after varying amounts of time from instantly to 10 seconds or more. I tried leaving the R/S meter attached (set to 5vdc - it's lowest range) to see if there was voltage somehow being induced and tripping the protection, and the needle did move a tiny bit.
  The original fuses were "BUSS MDA 20A", replacements were "BUSS ABC 20A", after running out, I'm using 20 amp glass fuses - could it be it just needs the correct "time delay", or "slow blow" fuses?
  Though my ohms readings are mostly "off", online info says testing the HV components is best done by replacing with "known good" parts - are there ways I can run mw with certain things disconnected to pinpoint the problem (without electrocuting myself)?   
  I couldn't find info on the three-wire primary until I searched "inrush relay" (one of three relays shown in schematic). Could I try (for example) disconnecting the primary wires, run cook cycle, then introduce 120v to the black & white or black & blue terminals with a separate cord? Wouldn't this eliminate problems in switches, relays, etc. that occur only under load?
  Any ideas would be appreciated.
Dryer Repair / no power to dryer
« Last post by dennishazard on July 27, 2014, 07:01:53 PM »
we have a Maytag electric dryer model # mdeg606ayw , my wife loaded the dryer and turned it on and it worked for a second, then nothing, the light in the dryer doesn't work and the dryer wont turn on, can anyone help me figure this out ?, fuses are all good and power cord appears ok, thank you Dennis from Adams,wi
Washer Repair / Re: GE GTWN4250DOWS
« Last post by keithvibe on July 27, 2014, 07:01:44 PM »
open the lid, put one hand on each side of the agitator, turn your head or place a blanket over the top of the agitator and pull strait up. Watch not to knock your self out when the agitator comes up off the bell of the basket.
Is the inner basket still attached or has it rusted through?
If it looks like the photo attached you would be better off going shopping than to fix it. Up to you though.
Hello everyone,

I'm posting this out of sheer desperation as I just cannot afford to pay for a service call.  I'm trying to do this myself but not doing so well.

I have a GE side-by-side fridge freezer (GSHS5KGXBCSS).  The upper area of the freezer compartment stays at 60 degrees and it's the same on the fridge side.

The back panel in the freezer occasionally has frost.  The defroster works (I can see it glowing, plus it occasionally melts all but contents on the very bottom.  Items on the bottom of the fridge will freeze.  Obviously the icemaker cannot make ice.   

Can anyone help diagnose my problem with what I've said above plus the pictures I posted? I would greatly appreciate ANY useful information.  This is causing great strife in my household.  I think my wife is about to leave me.  :tickedoff:
Washer Repair / GE GTWN4250DOWS
« Last post by Intruder on July 27, 2014, 06:25:27 PM »
When the washer goes into a final spin in each cycle, it gets so loud you can hear it at the neighbors next door.  I checked for being level and it was fine.  There's no banging or clunking sound, just a very very loud spinning noise.  It washes the clothes, but it never made this kind of noise before.
Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you, Intruder   :thanks:
Washer Repair / Re: Removing stuck Cabrio, Bravo or Oasis inner tub
« Last post by Maytag Man 6725 on July 27, 2014, 06:08:49 PM »
Two jobs and it more than pays for itself. You only have to send 1 truck for any Cabrio job
Washer Repair / Re: Removing stuck Cabrio, Bravo or Oasis inner tub
« Last post by Maytag Man 6725 on July 27, 2014, 06:07:26 PM »
Washer Repair / Re: Removing stuck Cabrio, Bravo or Oasis inner tub
« Last post by AJ on July 27, 2014, 06:03:34 PM »
Interesting, how much?

This video?

Washer Repair / Removing stuck Cabrio, Bravo or Oasis inner tub
« Last post by Maytag Man 6725 on July 27, 2014, 05:44:45 PM »
I have been a technician for over 24 years, and have been recently having to constantly fight with Cabrio inner tubs not wanting to come out. I've come up with an awesome solution to the problem and have designed a puller specifically for pulling this tub. It takes a 1/2 hr 2 man job and turns it into a 3.5 min one man job. Yes I have filed the patent and these will be available for purchase by mid to end of August 2014. Contact Jay At for more info. I have 4 companies in our area that have been using them and are waiting for me to provide them with one for every truck(they won't share with their techs)   It is very well made constructed of billet steel and powder coated for years for years of durability. Basically you buy it once and have it for ever. Many techs backs will thank me for this. Search jays appliance on you tube and watch how easy it works:)
Washer Repair / Re: Whirlpool washer water just a trickle
« Last post by Maytag Man 6725 on July 27, 2014, 05:27:18 PM »
I've also used the same procedure as the old stove guy for years and have had very good success
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