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I'm at my wits end with this machine.  This thing has had a issue with the drain freezing up for at least a year now.  I've installed a 6 hour timer and a warmer defrost bimetal per Frigidaire.  I've replaced the breather valves assembly.  I've rtv'ed where the drain hole goes through the wall per Frigidaire.  I've also made sure it had a trap in the drain line.  If it was up to me, I would give their money back and be done with this pos.  This is in a church and it was donated to them initially.  All they do is whine and cry about this thing, and I'm supposed to perform some kind of a miracle after at least 6-8 trips now.  I even snaked tubing down the line thinking maybe I rtv'ed part of the hose closed.  I checked the drain pan too to see if the hose is clogged at the bottom.  Water drains fine when poured in.
I wasn't sure what test you wanted me to run. I went through all the available options in the test mode and nothing seems to be generating an error - though I don't know how to interpret some of the results.
The big problem is I can't seem to exit test mode. My refrigerator doesn't have a FF (Fresh Food?) button to press and hold for 5 seconds to exit test mode. Pressing and holding other buttons on the test mode screen doesn't seem to exit test mode either. Okay I left it sit long enough and eventually it exited test mode itself.

As for the fingers, there was definitely ICE coating some of them, near and on the tips.

Most of the time when I look in there, the head is sitting under the fingers, but not pushed up against them.

Does any of that help?
Dryer Repair / Samsung dryer DV45H7000EW/A2 Wont start
« Last post by mmclemore34 on Today at 03:41:34 PM »
Dryer is about year and half old.  First had a technician out last year because power would inconsistently cut off and not power back up.  Found moisture/condensation on back of the dryer and inside near the PCB.  Assumed it was from the leaking of hot air from the vent making its way up the back of the dryer.  Tech could not replicate the problem at the time so after he left we replaced the duct and blew it out to make sure it had sufficient air flow. Not too many problems since then other than the Power button takes a little negotiating some times to get it started (push hard).  Now my wife ran a cycle just fine about 3 days ago and it will not power back on.  No error codes thrown on the diagnostic.  I assume it is in the upper control board and that maybe the power button has shorted. 

Here are the thinks I have checked so far before reaching a road block. 

1. Thermistor 10.4 at 78 degrees room temp
2. Thermal fuse 1-3 (different degrees I assume) -all have ohm less than 1.
3. power to the wall 220 wall plug is good and also have 120V to the PCB.
4. sensor for the tensioner for the belt is good ohm wise.

I havent checked the door switch but it clicks and I would assume the dryer would atleast power on at all even with a bad switch.   
I've pretty much reached the end of my know-how when it comes to this.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks

right side is the fill position.
the fingers, is it frost or ice? there is a difference? think snow ball
clicking noise is the mold motor/level motor skipping the plastic gears 
the fingers are the mold evaporator not heaters.
did you run it thoigh the tests.? what did you find ?
Dryer Repair / No heat and now I smell gas
« Last post by Martin1pro on Today at 12:19:24 PM »
My kenmore 80 series propane dryer stopped making heat and along with that, now I can smell gas. (I shut the valve off). Before I start my quest to fix this thing can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks for the time ,

I smell gas even when the dryer is off- figured I'd add this info

Yeah, so I've discovered!

I just opened the door, and it was on the right side. Is that the fill position? I pushed up on the head and heard a contact switch, then closed the door. A short while later I heard a clicking sound, and it was over on the left, under the fingers. I turned off the ice-maker, which made the head go back to the right, and the fingers are all covered in ice. Are these the heaters?
The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.

Junior Appliance Services Edmonton

This is a stand alone GE refrigerator with a simple mechanical thermostat.  There is no defrost heater or limit although there is a thermal disk which is similar to a limit.   Not really sure what it's purpose is because it is rated 149 degrees.  like I said there is not a heater to generate heat.

The unit worked on I dismantled the shelving (a chore in itself) to get full access to the evaporator which was a solid block of ice. I fully defrosted the evap with a thorough steam job. That was more than a  month ago so the problem is not a stuck thermostat because the refrigerator is performing flawlessly now

What I can suggest about the drain is that there must be some scale in the tubing that restricts the flow of water drainage.
Washer Repair / Re: whirlpool cabrio
« Last post by gregaguilar on Today at 08:34:46 AM »
thanks guys but as soon as i get the lid switch i will get back to this situatio. I have not had time to do much but i will. About the noise well i also spun the tub by hand and no noise I think i will be okay on that one, man they make this newer units a piece of junk.
I wonder why the fuse blew to start with.

Not sure but I'm thinking the ice makers defrost cycle may have tripped the max temp on the fuse. The fuse sits against the metal part of the ice tray and insulated with see through plastic tubing.

The unit has been making ice since I swapped out the fuse so very happy with the fix.
So i took apart the freezer because i figured that was the best place to start, after i cleaned the evap coils.

I attached a picture of the condensor coils, honestly I don't think it looks too bad.

The freezer works, fridge doesn't get air though, so i figured that the air return from fridge to freezer was probably frozen and clogged, so unplugged the fridge for 36 hrs, let all the ice melt, and put it back on, and I still find that the only time that the air is able to come from freezer into fridge is when both freezer and fridge doors are open, if i close the freezer door, the airflow to the fridge stops, fan is spinning too. and I stimulate a closed fridge by pressing the button in, so the problem must be because it is creating a vacuum

I have an LG LBN20518ST freezer on bottom fridge.

I have no idea where to look next for the vents/hoses and how to clean them out, please help. I hear it can also be the damper/diffuser, but I have no idea where to find that either. Most people have side by side fridges when they do repair videos and instructions
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