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Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Re: GE JCB968SL1SS Bake Element won't come on
« Last post by fredg on September 25, 2016, 11:51:15 PM »
Back with an update...  Looks I was misreading the hanging thermometer, was close to 350 after all.  Decided to re-install the original control board to see what differences I might find, because things appeared to be working properly with the new board. Somewhat surprisingly, there was no difference!  I ran the oven up to 350, confirmed that the sequence of 5 seconds bake, 10 seconds broil and the rest was convection element until it hits the set point @ 350.  Then the bake comes on and keep heating the oven from that point on. I let it run for quite a while and the thermometer eventually got to and stayed at 350 (I don't have a thermocouple for my meter).  Bumped setting up to 400, thermometer reads about 400.

So we did a little bake test and it seemed to work OK, except that it seems quite slow to get to full temp on the thermometer. So now I'm confused, because it actually seems OK now, even with the old board?

Here's the back story on this - this stove was in our home, we used it for 7 or 8 years, no problem.  We decided to upgrade to a newer model and moved this to a rental condo that we own.  The renter reported that it was not working correctly - would not get hot enough, temp was not consistent, said they had to throw a bunch of baking and cooking out. So I had an appliance repairman come out and he said the the bake element was not working and that it needed a new control board - that's where I stepped in and decided to take it back home and check it out for myself.  When I checked and found the bake element was  not staying on, I assumed that the board must indeed be bad and ordered a new one (not understanding then the cycling sequence that it is using).

So now I guess I will leave the old board in and try to resell the new one? As far as I can tell, it is working correctly, except that it is quite slow in heating up:
-  The set temperature of 350 will be reached within 5 mins (oven reports 350 and beeps), but the thermometer only shows about 150 at that point.
- It takes about 20 mins. before the thermometer reaches 350 - is this normal?

Once again, thanks to those that helped me work through this issue.


Dryer Repair / Whirlpool LEQ9030PQ1 Servicing Questions
« Last post by mytai11 on September 25, 2016, 10:52:07 PM »

Hey Fellas,

First things first:  The people who answer forum questions are nothing short of internet angels who care about people - so THANK YOU SO MUCH for sharing that all-important corporate knowledge you have that allows people like me to avoid a bill in the hundreds of dollars.   :thanks:

Noob here, first post to this forum...however, I have pulled apart dryers before, and a couple washers.  I'm versed in mechanics, and have taken down everything from engines and transmissions in cars, to miniature pocket watch gears, springs, and escapes (little hobby of mine...)

So, I've got this dryer 2nd hand, and I'm pretty sure it's never been serviced in any way.  The lady I bought it from seemed to be a heavy user (had a family,) and also, I spent the better part of half an hour cleaning off the stuck-on gunk and scum (probably a mix of old detergent, etc.) from the washer, so I'm thinking the dryer wasn't touched either. 

It dries, but not efficiently.  Had to run a moderate-sized load through two sixty minute cycles.  So, I have some questions:

1.  Is it possible the heating element could be partially out of service?
2.  What passageways can I clean out to ensure there aren't any blockages?
3.  Seems to turn with some resistance.  I plan on removing the tub to get whatever it is that's CONSTANTLY clinking and clanking in there - so I may end up with a new belt if it has one, and possibly (actually, more than likely) the rollers. 

I like these units.  They're a little old, but I was able to pick up both for $125, and after just moving from Hawaii to Nevada, ANYTHING that was working and reasonable was OK with me.  Other than that, I don't mind tweaking, servicing, and tuning up the pair. 

Any other information such as teardown log or video, tips or tricks, etc. with this dryer would be greatly appreciated.  I can't remember the dryer model/serial number, but it's the sister model.   

Many thanks for any help you might be able to provide me with!  The goal is to get this dryer running as EFFICIENTLY as possible!



Tools, Equipment & Other Products / Re: Does your insurance cover your tools?
« Last post by shieldcracker on September 25, 2016, 09:45:28 PM »
I started working for MEP contractors.
Did a lot of refrigeration. Now I am Quality Assurance Manager working at major distributor with direct ties to manufacturing.
Dryer Repair / Re: Whirlpool Roper Dryer wont start!!
« Last post by manden on September 25, 2016, 02:20:49 PM »
Be sure to check/clean your vent system and outside vent louvers as they are the most common cause of the thermal fuse blowing.

Also would be a good idea to check that the heater coil is not grounded.
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: refrigerador wirpool
« Last post by delfin62 on September 25, 2016, 12:02:56 PM »
gracias ese es demanual de partes y yo nesesito manual de servicio gracias
Dryer Repair / Re: Whirlpool Roper Dryer wont start!!
« Last post by mz3own on September 25, 2016, 09:54:37 AM »
It was indeed the thermal fuse! Thank you everyone who replied.  You have been a big help and it is much appreciated!!! :cheers: :thanks:
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: refrigerador wirpool
« Last post by dab147315 on September 25, 2016, 09:50:19 AM »
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: refrigerador wirpool
« Last post by romanowski72 on September 25, 2016, 09:38:48 AM »
could not find a manual for your fridge, but what is your issue?  I assume its a top freezer style, fresh on bottom?
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: restiction in cooler sealed system
« Last post by romanowski72 on September 25, 2016, 09:30:46 AM »
still need to change the filter dryer though.
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: restiction in cooler sealed system
« Last post by romanowski72 on September 25, 2016, 09:27:09 AM »
head pressure or high side will increase and suction pressure will drop, depending on restriction you might see frost forming on the filter, anymore than three degrees is call for a filter change, many times its not the filter but cap tube is plugged, look for frost.
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