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Washer Repair / Re: LG bearing job WM2016CW
« Last post by john63 on Today at 11:15:26 PM »
Compared to all of the other brands of front load washers---I find the LG washer tub bearing replacement---to be the easiest (intuitive).

At a minimum you'll need:

Stainless Steel Inner Tub (lifetime warranty)---(3045ER0021F)

Inner Bearing (4280FR4048K)

Outer Bearing (4820FR4048C)

Bearing Seal (4036ER2003A)

Tub Gasket (4036ER4001C)

If the washer is older than 2009---you can offer---as an option to the customer (a value added service)...

Drain Motor (4681EA2001T)

Hall Effect Sensor (6501KW2001A)

Motor Wire harness (6877ER1016C)





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Washer Repair / LG bearing job WM2016CW
« Last post by jason1979g on Today at 10:04:31 PM »
how difficult of a job is this? do i get the bearings or does the rear tub assy come with what is needed. any info and suggestions are welcome!
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Dishwasher Repair / Re: lg lds4821bb Dishwasher
« Last post by bagjr387 on Today at 10:04:25 PM »
It sounds like its not getting enough(or any) water. I would look in the direction of the water valve area first. also make sure that where the braided line goes in, that nothing is caught in the screen/filter. Sometimes it gets built up with sediment
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Dishwasher Repair / lg lds4821bb Dishwasher
« Last post by escapingoth on Today at 09:04:59 PM »
Hey guys
I am hoping that someone can help. I have a 2.5 year old LG lds4821bb. The start cycle drains first, fills and then drains again, and then the pump starts. If after the 2nd draining I open up the door and put about 10 cups of water in it it stays and washes the dishes quite well. If I don't, the soap block just stays fairly undissolved at the bottom of the dishwasher and of course the dishes are still dirty.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Hans
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since you already lost the charge... remove the shrader core... most guys forget to remove it when they burn one is... indoing so they ruin the rubber seal on it... replace the shrader and leak check.
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Can you put some water in a cup with a thermometer in it, and put it near the top of the fridge and give us a temperature? A infrared gun may give an inaccurate if the door is open long enough

And an empty freezer will make the compressor run a lot more. It looses temperature very fast when its empty. a freezer full of food will help keep temperature and actually save you energy.

My knee jerk reaction is that you have an empty freezer and its keeping the unit working harder

And another thing, all of the manufacturers say that it takes 24 hours to adjust to a change in the coldness settings. there is only like an 8 degree swing between "cooler" and "warmer"
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<<<Can anyone confirm that 6871ER1023B will work in my machine?>>>

**********

No.

The Main Board 6871ER1023B is a replacement for the following models...

WM1811CW
WM1832CW

I checked my inventory (which is extensive)---and regrettably---I don't have the correct Main Board for the WM2032HW washer.
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Thanks Dab147315 - I'll try them.

Now three options:

 - Can anyone confirm that 6871ER1023B will work in my machine?  LowSL2 found it on EBAY for me but it looks different (see my post above)
 - This new option for repair
  - identifying the motor relay and getting an electronics expert replace it

Still Hopeful!

Steve
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Patricio, thanks for the reply. I'm really not sure where the hissing is coming from. :/ I had to listen again when I got home last night. I let the machine run for a while to warm up, then when I turned it off, I could hear a sound coming from the lower coil area (I have the inner panel that covers the coil pulled back while I'm troubleshooting this) but I couldn't pinpoint the source exactly. It's not a leaking sound, BTW. I just mentioned it because it seems to indicate there is freon in the lines. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't misreading that signal, or that the sound is normal when a freezer is turned off. My main concern at this point is trying to confirm if there is freon in the system, or if I'm looking at another cause and from what I can see, it seems like there is freon.

Last night I pulled the defrost thermostat and put it in some ice water to do a resistance test on it and it failed that test, so I have ordered a new defrost thermostat. I also tested again the regular thermostat behind the knob and even bypassed it (even though it passed) but that still didn't help. Will a failed defrost thermostat allow the unit to run but not get cold? Can you bypass a defrost thermostat? I've read that you can and that you can't. I would assume bypassing it would be as simple as connecting the two wires that connect to it. Still, I'm not confident that this will fix my problems. A failed defrost thermostat will cause the freezer to be too cold, right?
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