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I found the manual on the drive, it shows the dispensor disassembled.
Now I just need to know why it would ice up.
they are pressed in to a channel. Pull to remove from the channel
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / GE French Door PYE23PSDCSS 2 problems
« Last post by schleven on Today at 03:27:43 PM »
Customer has the above mentioned fridge. two complaints, first was noise.  I found it to be the fridge evaporator fan hitting the ice buildup on the evaporator. 
Any idea why the ice build up? 

The other problem is that the water/ice paddle sticks in the on position.  You must pull it back with your finger to make it stop.  I could not figure out how to get behind the dispensor to see what the problem was.
Any idea how to get to the paddle spring area?

Heres some pics:

The Tech Sheet is located under top right hinge cap.Correction. :oops:
This is your Tech.Sheet.This should be your service manual.Let us know what happens.https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-i5KqMA2RZwOGRaeDRNakdxaGs/view?usp=sharing Tech.Sheet should be in kick plate,page 12 in service manual.
Thanks for the reply.There is something holding the seals on and in the door.I need to know how to take it apart to remove and replace the seals without breaking or damangeing something.Thanks again
Dryer Repair / Re: Kenmore not heating
« Last post by archibald tuttle on Today at 01:36:01 PM »
PS- i'm talking about the self resetting button t-stat limit, not the fuse style final safety.
Dryer Repair / Re: Kenmore not heating
« Last post by archibald tuttle on Today at 01:34:19 PM »
i did get warned this was an old topic but its a good thread and i'm having obscure problem with same dryer.

the high limit stat melted down, so i sent my associate down to the parts house and they matched it by the numbers on the original although i admit i did not take note as usually the model or at least the temp set is stamped right on the thing.

we installed the new one and now the dryer is essentially using this limit-stat (which the parts listing seems to say is supposed to be 250 deg.) as the operating stat.  so either we didn't get the right one or this one is apparently poor QC.  clothes are taking 3 times as long to dry as they should.  air movement is we the people.

can anyone confirm this is supposed to be a 250, and what's the operating one supposed to operate at? I'm going to run it with this limit jumped out see if it seems to run at rational temp and the operating stat does kick off, but given the extended drying times when the thing was drying perfectly right up until the thermal cutoff failure suggests to me that this is the wrong temp, by design or poor QC.

any insights appreciated.  customer wants me strung from yardarm.

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