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Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Maytag 3 door MD. MFI2266AEB
« Last post by Caddy4343 on Today at 02:10:20 PM »
On this model the icemaker is in the refrigerator.  The display lights up and all functions work [lights  etc.] but the water and ice dispenser aren't working.  I checked the micro switch and it's ok.  After I reassembled the dispenser it worked for about 5 seconds.  Also I disconnected and reconnected the plug under the hinge cover.  The flapper opened and closed each time I repeated disconnecting and reconnecting the plug.  That tells me that the solenoid is ok.  I suspect the main board on the back of the refrigerator. 
Does anyone have any experience with this situation?
Washer Repair / Question regarding ECS Sensor on my DW80F600UTS
« Last post by TNeff on Today at 01:47:22 PM »
The ECS Sensor on my Samsung DW80F600UTS dishwasher was replaced back in November of 2014. The dishwasher's Auto Smart and Heavy lights were blinking and the repairman replaced the sensor at that time. He also told me that if the sensor gets dirty it would trigger this error code and prohibit the washer from working.

The same lights are blinking again 7 months later. I have removed the sump to expose the sensor and cleaned it off. The unit still doesn't work.  Do I need to replace the sensor again? If so, do I have to pull the unit out or can I do it from within the inside. I've read both on this forum.

Really not impressed with this washer. We wash our dishes off prior to loading to prevent issues like this.

Thanks for any help you can offer.
Washer Repair / Re: ge hydrowave mode selector is dead ... now what?
« Last post by dab147315 on Today at 11:13:11 AM »
May i ask how much was the prorate? There was no recall they just call it a service bulletin.Thats only to the Service field and not the public.They don,t want the public to know they screw up.The old design motor burns out the mode shifter if you open the lid up during a cycle for to long, it takes out the mode shifter.The new motor inverter on top of the motor is reprogram so this don,t happen.So customer pays in the long run.
The sticker with the motor part number is actually on the front of the motor (not on top, as shown in the bulletin). The part number to be concerned with starts with '175D51'. If you read the thread I referenced (http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=11579.msg59814#msg59814) you'll see that the motor is indeed fine but that the software that controls the motor and mode shifter has a flawed routine that under certain circumstances will burn out the the 20 thermal fuse in the mode shifter. If you avoid those conditions then yeah, you don't need to change the motor. The most recent GE Part Number for the motor is WH20X10093.
Here's a picture of the label for the new motor (WH20X10093):

And no, the bulletin applies to all Hydrowave machines. There are quite a few out there that aren't affected but that is because they are newer than the bulletin and therefore have the corrected firmware.

PS: You're on the right track dealing with Customer Relations but might not be aggressive enough. I'd use E-mails and maybe attach the service bulletin. I had an easy time of it because I'm the caretaker of a herd of 6,000 or so GE appliances and have an assigned Relations Rep. Persist, as it is obviously a flaw they were aware of!  O0

They're (she's) not budging. Either 50% off parts or prorate the cost of a replacement washer. Even if I emailed the service bulletin, it wouldn't matter because they don't show anything on their end that essentially is a recall >:( ... could you im me the name of the rep you're working with?

Also she said with these washers there are no warranties on parts outside the standard one year warranty - is that right?
Just a quick update: I got a hold of someone at samsungparts.com actually willing to help and she gave me a part number the was a different revision than the one i previously ordered, still looks the same but maybe its programmed correctly this time. Parts on order and Ill let you know if it works.
Chit Chat / Dryer drum
« Last post by Thorning on Today at 09:43:49 AM »
I recently bought an old used Maytag electric dryer ,Model DE410, which was in need a few minor repairs. The inside of the drum had the paint worn and chipped quite a bit near the back on the inside. I considered taking it off , sanding it, and repainting it but since it is fairly old I did something else . The opposite end of the drum on the inside was in nice shape as regards paint . I measured up the drum in all the dimensions I could think of and decided to put it back in the machine in the opposite orientation. It fit and works fine. I am putting this thought out for others to consider. Also if someone sees a problem with this I would like to know .
I also had to replace one drum roller due to heat from the burner tube. This is a common problem on older dryers on the drum roller which is located above the burner tube.
Washer Repair / Re: GE Top Load sulfer smell and water under basket
« Last post by Trav on Today at 09:28:32 AM »
Not sure to be honest that the water is under the basket. I didn't know about the fluid filled ring. Could be that ring that I am hearing then. Thanks for the reply.
Dishwasher Repair / Re: HDA3500N20WW WON'T DRAIN
« Last post by dab147315 on Today at 08:49:10 AM »
Jason i don,t know if this manual will help you, but it is close to what your working on.https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-i5KqMA2RZwWjlMSE8wUHFfSEE/view?usp=sharing     Read page 7.
Thanks for letting us know. O0
Dishwasher Repair / Re: HDA3500N20WW WON'T DRAIN
« Last post by Appliance techhead on Today at 07:40:01 AM »
Check to see for the board is sending power to the drain pump. Put unit on drain and check for 120v
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