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Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Defrost Cycle Duration
« Last post by toddlaroche on Today at 07:23:37 PM »
Can someone tell me how long the average defrost cycle lasts? I have GE side-by-side refrigerator (about 8 years old with digital button controls on the front of the freezer door). If I run the "0 7" Diagnostic code/test and put it into defrost mode manually, how long is it safe to keep it in the defrost mode before I end the cycle manually? Just trying to address some extra frosting that seems to be going on.
Thanks for any insight you can provide.
The evaporator fan seems to be hitting the plastic casing around it occasionally. Is this due to frost build-up? Is that normal/acceptable? How can I prevent that from happening?
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair / Re: Frigidaire Ice Maker /What Is This ??
« Last post by mz3own on Today at 05:12:11 PM »
it's the ice maker thermister. It should be attached to the bottom of the ice maker mold. Needs a new ice maker.
I got the second Repair kit, new mold tests and works fine. I put in the second control board and have no better results....
When going back through all the tests, I noticed the Defrost Heater Test 61c isn't passing. Apparently I was touch testing the wrong parts for heat before  ::)

So, now I'm troubleshooting that whole circuit and all the wiring tests fine, the element reads 387ohms, but I'm not getting any heat. The way that circuit daisy-chains through a bunch of stuff seems weird ('cause any of the design of this unit it a good idea...), so I'm not sure if a part is actually bad or not. My multimeter isn't reading anything (open resistance) on the bi-metal thermistor, but it is getting 120v across the plugs. Since that thermistor is in-line with the heating element, the element is not getting 120v. I tried changing the order, putting the element in line first and no change. I also tried swapping the thermistor out with the one from the ice finger heater circuit, still no change. When I meter out the thermistor from the ice fingers, I still can't get an ohm reading, but it does have continuity meaning a closed circuit.
Am I correct in assuming since the Defrost Heater circuit thermistor is reading open that it's bad? ....and could potentially lead to the whole system not working?

EDIT: i tried swapping out the thermistor from the ice finger circuit again and now it works. Not sure why it didn't the first time.....So i guess that confirms a bad thermistor. Good thing it's only a $120 part......  >:(
Broken harness
Broken wire harness.
Washer Repair / Amana NFW7200TW Error Code "nd"
« Last post by traxbe on Today at 01:04:41 PM »
I have an Amana Washer, model # nfw7200tw that is giving me the "nd" error code. It works for about 3/4 of the wash cycle (inclusive of pumping out water) but then the "nd" error code happens toward the end of the cycle. I took apart the pump and confirmed that there are no obstructions. I also took off the boot that attaches to the pump and it also was clear of obstruction. I am able to easily blow through the drain tube. I tested to validate that the pump has continuity and that the wire leading to the pump is providing 120v when the pump tries to turn on. Any thoughts on what to try next?
Hi TechGeeks!

I just performed some self-diagnostics on my GE Refrigerator, Model #LSS25XSWASS. (I've been having some frosting issues, which seems to be building on the evaporator fan blades and making a noise when it's running.) See the attached chart for the codes I ran. When I ran the Diagnostic Code "0 7" which is for determining the condition of the thermistors, I got a "P" (for pass) for the #1 through #4 thermistors. But for the #5 thermistor (which is the freezer thermistor, see attached chart), I got a broken P, looks sort of like a "2" without the bottom. (See the photo attached.) It's not an "S" which would stand for short. So it's not clear to me whether the freezer thermistor is defective or not. But maybe that would contribute to the frosting issue if it is defective...? I did the defrost diagnostic test (Code "1 4") and the heater element came on, so I know the heating element is good. Just not sure if that test also checks the condition of the defrost thermostat and/or timer functionality. If it doesn't, maybe they are the culprits to the frosting issue...?

Any insights on this that might be able to clarify whether the "broken P" freezer thermistor readout means anything in particular? And what else I can check in order to diagnose why I'm getting frosting in the freezer?

Thanks for any help you can provide!!
Dryer Repair / Re: Maytag MGDE400WX1 F22 Error Code
« Last post by lil2spunki on Today at 12:00:56 PM »
Well, I am completely stumped.  ??? I just received and installed the new control board.  Turned the dryer on to a heated cycle and back to the F22 error.  So far we have replaced the thermister, thermal fuse, thermal cut off, thermstat F along with the dryer belt kit.  I have not replaced the wire harness but continuity seems to be fine on all wires.  I do find this similar problem throughout my internet searches but there does not seem to be a posted solution.  I am a good few hundred bucks in with all my parts and pieces so prefer to get this figured out.

I did not see if there is a way to clear out the error code as indicated by one of the Tech Supports but if anyone has encountered this oddity.. I am open to ANY ideas.  Thanks!
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