Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
Maytag Man and Go400,

This is my project for tonight.  Thanks for all the expertise so far.  I will keep you posted.

Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / siemens EH755501E
« Last post by mdoom on Today at 04:21:38 AM »
I'm participating in a charity renovation project. I got this cooktop as a donation, and it presumably worked when disassembled from the last place. It's only a few years old.
I decided to test it, so i hooked it up at my workshop; result, a click from a relay box nothing else... is it worth trying to fix or should I just discard it look for another one?

If the old board has fewer relays than the new board shown, you have the old style board. They changed the board to prevent driver burnouts from bad motors. You then must change both the motherboard and the evaporator motor.
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair / Wolf oven door disassembly
« Last post by suburbangeorge on July 28, 2014, 11:31:49 PM »
Today I bought a working Wolf CH-6-29 range. It won't be put into use right away as I'm going to rebuild the entire kitchen. This range is the black enamel model. I'm pretty sure that I'll have the removable top parts cleaned and refinished with high temp powder coating. I'd like to also make at least the door look nice as well. To powder coat it I would need to disassemble the door. Pretty obvious how to remove the handle but the door itself seems to be at least an inner and an outer stamping probably filled with insulation. The sheet metal parts seem to be held together with what I'll call "rivets". Unstead of pop-rivets or peened over rivets, these seem reusable.

I have seen this style before. There is an oval head which is larger than the holes in the sheet metal. Below the head would be a cylindrical section of a diameter more or less the size of the holes in the sheet metal. The entire rivet has a slightly tapered hole down the center and the cylindrical section is slit top to bottom on two sides opposite each other. A steel pin is pushed through the hole spreading the cylindrical section at the slits and grabing on to the sheet metal.

It seems that you could use a drift pin to drive the pins all the way through the rivets and out the ends. This would loosen the rivets and allow them to be pulled out of the holes. Once the rivits were removed, you could separate the inner and outer halves and retrieve the pins. Once the sheet metal was refinished, the door could be reassembled re-using the rivets.

This is how it looks like it might work but before I prove myself wrong and ruin the door  :oops:, has anyone done this or does anyone know that my thinking is wrong?

 :thanks: in advance
Washer Repair / Re: lg spline question
« Last post by john63 on July 28, 2014, 11:15:08 PM »
Not available separately.

Replacement Rotor has been upgraded/improved, however.

Steel spline.
I'm looking for a service manual for a wolf induction glass top model LT36E ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED.
Washer Repair / lg spline question
« Last post by schleven on July 28, 2014, 09:08:35 PM »
I have a customer with an LG WM2301HW washer. The splines on the rear rotor assembly are stripped. I know I can get the whole rotor (4413ER1003A) but was wondering if just the plastic spline was available. Looks like it is held in place with a few screws.
Anyone know?

couldnt find the tech sheet, but found this...
"The ice dispenser chute door will open once, then close, 45 minutes to 1 hour after last use. Please note that on some models, the ice chute door will open and then close following the opening and closing of the refrigerator and freezer door.This is to ensure that the chute door is completely sealed after the last use."

Washer Repair / Re: Whirlpool Slow Spin
« Last post by Maytag Man 6725 on July 28, 2014, 07:14:59 PM »
Probably your clutch.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10