So It was time to call for service.

Blinking lights (Normal)-(Sani/Rinse)- (Cancel)  but would not go anything else.   Removed all six of the  15 torx that hold the control panel on and the two more screws that hold the door latch. unplugged and plug in the control panel three time and the dishwasher when into test mode.  It was time for a New control panel as the keypad had failed.

If the dishwasher would not go into test mode. Then you will  need a control.

Removed the control by pressing  two clips on the left of the control.  Popping the control up then pulling it to the left emoved it from the panel. Unplugged the key pad ribbon connector from the control.  Then unscrewed the door latch  slid it into the New control panel. Snapped the control into the new panel and plugged in the ribbon connector. slid the panel back into the door and replaced all 6 screws and 2 screws for the door latch.

Turned on the power and it was washing dishes again.

(Parts)

8564542 control

8531242 control panel w/key pad black

(tools)

15 torx

Philips screwdriver

(time)

15 mins

New LED with larger black varistor

The indicator lights are low voltage LED controlled by cherry micro switches on each gas valve.  As the knob is turned a cam on the gas valve triggers the switchs allowing voltage to the LED. With these LEDs a small voltage change results in a large change in current.  It is therefore important that the power source gives the right voltage.  If the voltage is too high the current will go above the maximum rating, heating and potentially destroying the LED. As the LED heats, its voltage drop decreases further increasing current. LEDs should only be connected directly to constant-voltage sources. A varistor are a simple way to stabilize the LED current. A varistor is a non-ohmic variable resistors. known as a metal oxide varistor, or MOV.  This contains a zinc oxide grains, in a matrix of other metal oxides, between two metal plates. The boundary between each grain forms a diode junction, which allows current to flow in only one direction.  The mass of oriented grains is electrically equivalent to a network of back-to-back diode pairs, each pair in parallel with many other pairs. When a small or moderate voltage is applied across the electrodes nonlinear current-voltage in which the MOV has a high resistance at low voltages and a low resistance at high voltages stabilizing the voltage and  absorbing small voltage surge. Working like a mini capacitor . Varistors do not absorb a significant percentage of a lightning strike, but they can stabilize low voltage.

Cherry micro switches and cams on gas valves

Dacor has revise the varistors on there LED three times each time adding a larger capacity varistors to protect the LED. Dacor tech line also recommended that we replace all LED when one is burn out. Remove the four drip pan trim.then the two center porcelain covers slid forward lift up at the rear then side back to remove. remove the burner and two crown burner there is a tool under the right side toe panel. Lift up the three drip pans and four screws remove the front brace. This gives you access to all 6 pn# 100121 LED lights they just unplug. reverse the steps and tested each indicator lights.

Dacor crown burner with drip pans removed

(Parts used)
6 each pn#100121 LED lights
(Time )
45 min
(Tools)
#2 Phillips Screwdriver

Crown burner tool (under toe panel)

It was time to call for service…

Blinking “service” light and “EC” is a error code on Sub-Zeros. When a unit did not cycle defrost off 6 consecutive times in a roll. this a a common problem then a condenser is plugged with dust bunnies or a bad fan motor and the unit can not exchange heat . If the refrigerator can not remove the heat it can not keep the refrigerator cool and will keep running.

Remove three screws from inside the door. Take off the top grille held on by two springs. Two screws removes the compressor baffle. Make sure the condenser fan is turning when the compressor is running, If not it can often be started by a quick push in the correct direction. Take a look at the fan blade shape, it pulls air into the machine compartment. If the fan was turning but no air was flowing, the condenser needs to be cleaned. Make sure the unit is off when vacuuming condenser . Use a soft brush tool on the end of the vacuum and vacuum it top to bottom. do not move it side to side as you do not want to bend over the condenser fins.

After checking the condenser on this refrigerator this was not the case as it was clear and clean..

Sample of a evaporator ‘ Pop”

Next I check the back wall in the fresh food compartment. I noticed a ice build up on the left. A sure sign of a low gas situation. removed the light cover and the three screws at the top of the evaporator cover pull it forward and removed it. a large ice ball at where the cap tube enters the evaporator more evidence of a low gas problem. If there is low gas then there must be a leak as the system is hermetic sealed. Leak are found at the joints or in the evaporator. Sub-Zero evaporator made from copper and aluminum two medals that should not be touch each others as they cause a chemical reaction aluminum gives electrons to the copper ions. This causes the copper ions to turn into copper metal At the same time aluminum metal turns into aluminum ions. Al metal + Cu+2 ions —> Al +3 ions + Cu metal The solution ions become a metal (Cu). The new aluminum ions have different properties than the aluminum metal. The aluminum ions are not in a solid form which weakens the wall of the evaporator. Sub-Zero uses many different coatings to separate the two metals But this evaporator failure is common.

Oil residue in the drain trough below the evaporator is the nail in coffin. We need a evaporator.

A sealed system problem must be dealt with by an authorized technician or a lease a EPA certified technician , This repair is covered by Sub-Zero warranty.

Full Five Year Sealed System Warranty
For five years from the date of original installation, your Sub-Zero warranty covers all parts and labor to repair or replace any components that prove to be defective in materials or workmanship in the sealed system. The sealed system consists of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier and all connecting tubing.

Limited 6th Through 12th Year Warranty
From the 6th through the 12th year from the date of original installation, your Sub-Zero warranty covers all parts that prove to be defective in materials or workmanship in the sealed system (parts only). The sealed system consists of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier and all connecting tubing.

PN# 7009366 evaporator
PN# 7006964 Dryer
Replaced the evaporator and drier . recharged the system with 134A only 5.5 oz….and this Sub-Zero was back to keeping the beer cold and no more stinky milk.

When the knob is turned to the ON position the spark module begins the ignition process by a spark, A click can be heard but No flames and No Gas could be heard at all. This is the the only burner that would not work all others work great.

The surface burners on this range use valves connected to a manifold to control gas flow to each burner. A micro switch connected to the spark module for ignition, All four igniter spark when any one of the four mirco switches are turned on. Only the one with gas supplied will ignite.

The gas will flows into the burner assembly where it will ignite with assistance for a spark from the igniter electrode. when the valve increases the gas flow and the burner flame will increase, while turning it down will lower the flame.

This range has two burner that have a simmer mode. These burners have the ability to go from a 18,000 btu/h output to 375 btu/h, a very low flame for melting chocolate or cheese. This low flame is achieved by a secondary solenoid valve. Low simmer it is not controlled by the main gas valve. but from a potentiometer and simmer control board to keep this low flame glowing.

When the knob is turned on, The simmer control sends electricity to a solenoid valve to open the main valve will turn on.When the knob is turned to simmer the simmer control shut off the main valve and the low output valve will turn on. The output will vary depending on the position of the shaft as it rotates the potentiometer. The potentiometer changing resistance is used by the simmer board to maintain the gas flow from the secondary valve.

With only burner were not working I first checked the solenoid valve for community. As solenoid valves are a common point of failure. both solenoid valves had community. Now it was time to check voltage. there valves use need 110 VDC to open. With only 60VDC I suspect the it was the Simmer control pn#497235 the simmer control comes in a kit with two potentiometers as they should be changed as a set.

I replaced the two potentiometers and simmer control that is located behind the spark module under the top to the far right in the back. With the parts replace all burners where working great. Now she can boil large pan of water for spaghetti and melt chocolate for s’mores.

Whirlpool Oven Panel E6 F2 Error Code

Control Board Front View

Control Board Back View

No worries, we can repair this for you at FixYourBoard. Just go to our website, find the shipping form and send it in with the board. We will turn it in a fews days at our shop.

Many modern appliances have error code build in to the control programing to help with the diagnosis of a failure. Frigidaire dishwasher with display s will flash Er then a two letter error code.

Er i s a Switch error (Replace Console Pn# 154639207)

CE is a Configuration error (Replace Control Pn#154543602)

UO is a Vent that will not close. (Replace Vent Pn#154682301) or remove blockage

uF  is a Vent fan Not running (Replace Vent Pn#154682301) or remove blockage

Other codes you my see in the display that are not errors

LO is Low rinse aid

PF is power failure

Ho is Water Heating

CL is close Door

01-24 hours of delay

Service Test

[    (#1)(#2)(#3)(#4)(#5)(#6)(#7)     (#8)(#9)(10)(11)  ]

Press pad # 1          Active water valve            Ultimate Scrub Maxx Clean                    Valve on =FL    Valve off =rt

Press pad # 2  Test Speed motor (1 Time)  motor @ 2800 rpms   Speed Wash pad  ”28″ First two digits motor speed

Press pad # 2   Test Speed motor (2 Times)          wash motor @2950 rpms        Speed Wash pad     “29″  in display

Press pad # 2  Test Speed motor (3 Times)        wash motor @3150 rpms          Speed Wash pad     “31″  in display

Press pad # 2  Test Speed motor (4 Times)          wash motor @3450 rpms        Speed Wash pad     “34″  in display

Press pad # 2  Test Speed motor (5 Times)                      turns off wash motor No light on                  ”rt” in display

Press pad # 3 Test Dispenser                                 dispenser powered Normal                  Wash on = “Sd” off = “rt”

Press pad # 4 Test Drain pump                           on/off China Crystal or Party glasses                   on = dP off = “rt”

Press pad # 5 Test Fan dry             Active vent on/off Top Rack,Eco Wash Glasses           on = Fan speed off = “rt”

Press pad # 7  Test Rinse aid level                               none Rinse only                       low = RE full = RF off = “rt”

Press pad # 8 Test  Soil Sensor    none Wash Silencer or Wash pressure    on = sensor voltage reading off = “rt”

Press pad # 9 Test Thermistor             none Wash Temperature                          on = Temperature in °F off = “rt”

With a Er error I replaced the keyboard console pn#154639207 turn the breaker back on and the dishwasher displayed “PF” pushed cancel then pressed “Normal” and the dishwasher came back to life..

No more dish pan hands!

with the dirty clothes piling up.

It was time to call for service!

Two back fuse holder at the back of the washer

First thing I check with a dead appliance is it getting power. Asko washer run on 240V. Power run from the wall plug to the dryer then the washer plugs into the dryer. We had power 240v at the wall. 240v going into the washer…

Unplugged the washer then I checked the fuses. Asko dryers and washers have two 15 amp fuses to protect both sides of the lines. These fuses are required in Europe but not in the US and are a common failure point. Unscrewed the black fuse holders both fuses and check for continuity.  0 ohms on both fuses shows both are good. Have to go deeper into the washer. Three 20 Torx screws on the back then the top cover pulls up. Check the back of the control for power at the brown wire and we have power there..  It needs a control pn# 8077129.

Asko has a 2 + 1 Year – Parts and Labor Protection. A Full two year warranty plus one more year if you fill out a warranty registration form online within 90 days of the purchase date.  Not a bad deal for a extra year of coverage.

Removed the soap dispenser and three screws from the front and pried the control panel off the front. Snapped the control out of the control panel and unplugged all the wires. open up the control and you can see the burnt traces..

Snapped in a new control while lining up the knob and no/off button. Plug the wires back in . Set the bottom of the control panel into the groves then snap the top in. Slid the top on and replaced a top brace in place . Three screws back in the top. pressed the on button and the washer lives…

when I first arrive I see the back wall of the freezer side covered in heavy frost… Thinking it is one of the Frigidaire side by side that red heater plug has filled with water and separated that causing the heater circuit to by open. I remove the four screw that hold the evaporator cover on and slide it out. Too my surprise the heat was plugged in. but that was heavy frost all over the evaporator.

So I decided to put it into a f orced defrost by pressing the light switch on and off 5 time in 6 sec. the compressor stopped and the damper pn#241600902 closed and in just a minute the heater started to make  a clicking noise  as the calrod heater started warming up…This indicates that the heater circuit is good ..Defrost thermostat, Heater and wires to them.. I need a Adaptive Defrost Control PN#241508001 it is a electronically controlled defrost timer it keeps track of the period between defrost cycles, the time duration of the defrost cycle and how many times the doors are open. The device is programmed to keep track of the appliance usage and how long it takes for the evaporator coil to be thoroughly defrosted. It will then calculate the amount of time required and Adapts itself to be effective to save energy.

Removed the damper/ADC cover assembly by removeing the three screws across the front control box and the two screws located in the rear control box. The 2 housings will separate at the left back of the front housing by sliding the rear housing to the right until the buttons line up with the larger hole in the slots. Two screws later and the ADC was replaced and ready to go back. replaced the cover and the beer will be cold enough for the Ducks football game.

Microwave oven

New Jenn-Air over the range Microwave Model # JMV8208BAW when the customer wanted to reheat his coffee the turntable would not move back and forth as it was has done for the the last three months. The customer calls Jenn-Air for service.

When I arrive I first check for a no/off turntable button as some microwaves have a option to stop the turntable. A useful option if you have larger plates that do not have room to move around or back and forth as this does. No option button on this one. So there is a failure in the turntable circuit… I when straight to the turntable motor PN# DE31−00040A easy to get to just remove the four screws on the bottom and drop the bottom down. unplugged the motor and checked for continuity or a short in the motor. all tested good . So I plugged my meter into the wires that supply power to the motor grabbed a glass of water and put it into the microwave oven as an empty microwave oven will have no place for the microwaves to go.. And they could go back into the wave guide and destroy the Magnetron PN# W10126786. Started up the microwave oven and no power at the turntable motor. I have to go deeper. Remove the two screws on top that hold in the grille assembly . I removed a single screw that holds the control panel slid it up and the control panel will hinge open. Checked the wire diagram power for the turntable motor runs in series with the fan motor checked it for continuity or a short in the fan motor. The fan motor was open or An incomplete electrical circuit . the oven needed a need fan motor.

Replaced the fan motor PN# DE31−10177E. Plugged in the new fan motor. Put the oven all back together. And now the customer can reheat his coffee and the turntable plate will move back and forth. Goes to show you that one part can effect another.

The problem is that there are typically multiple output voltage windings on these devices which makes it difficult to cross to an off-the-shelf part. Nobody wants to scrap out an entire oven just because the low voltage transformer has failed and supply of a new replacement has been discontinued by the manufacturer.

In response to this need, we have developed a method to test and, when possible, repair these devices. In most cases we have found that the transformer can be reliably and safely repaired.

If your oven transformer has failed consider sending it to us at FixYourBoard for repair. Don’t scrap your oven without considering this cost effective, environmentally responsible alternative!

Some example part numbers are: 205C2191P002 WB20K5008 WB20K5063 WB20X10005 which are used in a variety of GE ovens similar to these models: JCTP16 JKP17 JKP18 JKP44 JKP45 JKP55 JKP54 JKP56 JTP16 JTP17 JTP18 JTP44 JTP45 JTP55 JTP56 ZEK734 ZEK736 ZEK737 ZEK754 ZEK755 ZEK756 ZEK757 and many others.