Archive for Uncategorized
KitchenAid Dishwasher with Three Blinking Lights
Posted by: | CommentsKitchenAid model # KUDPO1ILBS2 would only blink lights and NOT wash the dishes.
So It was time to call for service.
Blinking lights (Normal)-(Sani/Rinse)- (Cancel) but would not go anything else. Removed all six of the 15 torx that hold the control panel on and the two more screws that hold the door latch. unplugged and plug in the control panel three time and the dishwasher when into test mode. It was time for a New control panel as the keypad had failed.
If the dishwasher would not go into test mode. Then you will need a control.
Removed the control by pressing two clips on the left of the control. Popping the control up then pulling it to the left emoved it from the panel. Unplugged the key pad ribbon connector from the control. Then unscrewed the door latch slid it into the New control panel. Snapped the control into the new panel and plugged in the ribbon connector. slid the panel back into the door and replaced all 6 screws and 2 screws for the door latch.
Turned on the power and it was washing dishes again.
(Parts)
8564542 control
8531242 control panel w/key pad black
(tools)
15 torx
Philips screwdriver
(time)
15 mins
Sub-Zero 642 flash “service” and “EC”
Posted by: | CommentsThe fresh food compartment set at 38 but will not go below 50 degrees the milk was going sour .
It was time to call for service…
Blinking “service” light and “EC” is a error code on Sub-Zeros. When a unit did not cycle defrost off 6 consecutive times in a roll. this a a common problem then a condenser is plugged with dust bunnies or a bad fan motor and the unit can not exchange heat . If the refrigerator can not remove the heat it can not keep the refrigerator cool and will keep running.
Remove three screws from inside the door. Take off the top grille held on by two springs. Two screws removes the compressor baffle. Make sure the condenser fan is turning when the compressor is running, If not it can often be started by a quick push in the correct direction. Take a look at the fan blade shape, it pulls air into the machine compartment. If the fan was turning but no air was flowing, the condenser needs to be cleaned. Make sure the unit is off when vacuuming condenser . Use a soft brush tool on the end of the vacuum and vacuum it top to bottom. do not move it side to side as you do not want to bend over the condenser fins.
After checking the condenser on this refrigerator this was not the case as it was clear and clean..
Sample of a evaporator ‘ Pop”
Next I check the back wall in the fresh food compartment. I noticed a ice build up on the left. A sure sign of a low gas situation. removed the light cover and the three screws at the top of the evaporator cover pull it forward and removed it. a large ice ball at where the cap tube enters the evaporator more evidence of a low gas problem. If there is low gas then there must be a leak as the system is hermetic sealed. Leak are found at the joints or in the evaporator. Sub-Zero evaporator made from copper and aluminum two medals that should not be touch each others as they cause a chemical reaction aluminum gives electrons to the copper ions. This causes the copper ions to turn into copper metal At the same time aluminum metal turns into aluminum ions. Al metal + Cu+2 ions —> Al +3 ions + Cu metal The solution ions become a metal (Cu). The new aluminum ions have different properties than the aluminum metal. The aluminum ions are not in a solid form which weakens the wall of the evaporator. Sub-Zero uses many different coatings to separate the two metals But this evaporator failure is common.
Oil residue in the drain trough below the evaporator is the nail in coffin. We need a evaporator.
A sealed system problem must be dealt with by an authorized technician or a lease a EPA certified technician , This repair is covered by Sub-Zero warranty.
Full Five Year Sealed System Warranty
For five years from the date of original installation, your Sub-Zero warranty covers all parts and labor to repair or replace any components that prove to be defective in materials or workmanship in the sealed system. The sealed system consists of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier and all connecting tubing.
Limited 6th Through 12th Year Warranty
From the 6th through the 12th year from the date of original installation, your Sub-Zero warranty covers all parts that prove to be defective in materials or workmanship in the sealed system (parts only). The sealed system consists of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier and all connecting tubing.
PN# 7009366 evaporator
PN# 7006964 Dryer
Replaced the evaporator and drier . recharged the system with 134A only 5.5 oz….and this Sub-Zero was back to keeping the beer cold and no more stinky milk.
Thermador Range burner Not Working
Posted by: | CommentsThermador Model #PRDS364 A high end gas range began having a problem when the front left burners would not ignite. The front burner are the most used and with a family of eight. It was time to call for service.
When the knob is turned to the ON position the spark module begins the ignition process by a spark, A click can be heard but No flames and No Gas could be heard at all. This is the the only burner that would not work all others work great.
The surface burners on this range use valves connected to a manifold to control gas flow to each burner. A micro switch connected to the spark module for ignition, All four igniter spark when any one of the four mirco switches are turned on. Only the one with gas supplied will ignite.
The gas will flows into the burner assembly where it will ignite with assistance for a spark from the igniter electrode. when the valve increases the gas flow and the burner flame will increase, while turning it down will lower the flame.
This range has two burner that have a simmer mode. These burners have the ability to go from a 18,000 btu/h output to 375 btu/h, a very low flame for melting chocolate or cheese. This low flame is achieved by a secondary solenoid valve. Low simmer it is not controlled by the main gas valve. but from a potentiometer and simmer control board to keep this low flame glowing.
When the knob is turned on, The simmer control sends electricity to a solenoid valve to open the main valve will turn on.When the knob is turned to simmer the simmer control shut off the main valve and the low output valve will turn on. The output will vary depending on the position of the shaft as it rotates the potentiometer. The potentiometer changing resistance is used by the simmer board to maintain the gas flow from the secondary valve.
With only burner were not working I first checked the solenoid valve for community. As solenoid valves are a common point of failure. both solenoid valves had community. Now it was time to check voltage. there valves use need 110 VDC to open. With only 60VDC I suspect the it was the Simmer control pn#497235 the simmer control comes in a kit with two potentiometers as they should be changed as a set.
I replaced the two potentiometers and simmer control that is located behind the spark module under the top to the far right in the back. With the parts replace all burners where working great. Now she can boil large pan of water for spaghetti and melt chocolate for s’mores.
Frigidaire Side by side Not cooling
Posted by: | Comments
Frigidaire side by side Model#FRS3HR35KB fresh food side was over 60 degree and the beer was getting way too warm. As well as the Cherry Garcia ice cream melting like it was a hot summer day. But this is November. Time to call for service.
when I first arrive I see the back wall of the freezer side covered in heavy frost… Thinking it is one of the Frigidaire side by side that red heater plug has filled with water and separated that causing the heater circuit to by open. I remove the four screw that hold the evaporator cover on and slide it out. Too my surprise the heat was plugged in. but that was heavy frost all over the evaporator.
So I decided to put it into a f orced defrost by pressing the light switch on and off 5 time in 6 sec. the compressor stopped and the damper pn#241600902 closed and in just a minute the heater started to make a clicking noise as the calrod heater started warming up…This indicates that the heater circuit is good ..Defrost thermostat, Heater and wires to them.. I need a Adaptive Defrost Control PN#241508001 it is a electronically controlled defrost timer it keeps track of the period between defrost cycles, the time duration of the defrost cycle and how many times the doors are open. The device is programmed to keep track of the appliance usage and how long it takes for the evaporator coil to be thoroughly defrosted. It will then calculate the amount of time required and Adapts itself to be effective to save energy.
Removed the damper/ADC cover assembly by removeing the three screws across the front control box and the two screws located in the rear control box. The 2 housings will separate at the left back of the front housing by sliding the rear housing to the right until the buttons line up with the larger hole in the slots. Two screws later and the ADC was replaced and ready to go back. replaced the cover and the beer will be cold enough for the Ducks football game.
Microwave turntable NOT Working
Posted by: | Comments
Microwave oven
New Jenn-Air over the range Microwave Model # JMV8208BAW when the customer wanted to reheat his coffee the turntable would not move back and forth as it was has done for the the last three months. The customer calls Jenn-Air for service.
When I arrive I first check for a no/off turntable button as some microwaves have a option to stop the turntable. A useful option if you have larger plates that do not have room to move around or back and forth as this does. No option button on this one. So there is a failure in the turntable circuit… I when straight to the turntable motor PN# DE31−00040A easy to get to just remove the four screws on the bottom and drop the bottom down. unplugged the motor and checked for continuity or a short in the motor. all tested good . So I plugged my meter into the wires that supply power to the motor grabbed a glass of water and put it into the microwave oven as an empty microwave oven will have no place for the microwaves to go.. And they could go back into the wave guide and destroy the Magnetron PN# W10126786. Started up the microwave oven and no power at the turntable motor. I have to go deeper. Remove the two screws on top that hold in the grille assembly . I removed a single screw that holds the control panel slid it up and the control panel will hinge open. Checked the wire diagram power for the turntable motor runs in series with the fan motor checked it for continuity or a short in the fan motor. The fan motor was open or An incomplete electrical circuit . the oven needed a need fan motor.
Replaced the fan motor PN# DE31−10177E. Plugged in the new fan motor. Put the oven all back together. And now the customer can reheat his coffee and the turntable plate will move back and forth. Goes to show you that one part can effect another.
Random Computer Crash
Posted by: | CommentsOne of our FixYourBoard workstations started wigging out yesterday. The symptom was that occassionaly you could see one of the screens start to waver slightly, usually up in the top left corner, or around the cursor, then maybe the 2nd screen would start to do it ever so slightly, then the system would crash and reboot itself.
At first I thought maybe a graphics card problem … until I dug into it.
Here’s what I found. This was not at all obvious until unplugging the power supply from the main board (which naturally was the very last thing I did before ripping out the main board). Well, the problem was obvious.
Fig 1. Main power connector on the motherboard. See the overheated, burned contacts.
Fig 2. Main power plug coming from the power supply. This holds the pin sockets which are actually the culprits. The charred posts on the mainboard connector in Fig 1. above are actually ok, just need cleaned.
Nice!
Easy fix, spliced in a new connector from a spare defunct power supply, cleaned up the posts on the main board … so far it’s passed the stress test … we’ll see after a few weeks.
Root Cause of Failure
… age, stress, heat, fatigue … much like this past summer in Texas!
Granny’s Gurgling Furnace
Posted by: | CommentsA rare phenom occurred over the weekend here in the swamp. It got cold as hell. I turned on granny’s Amana high efficiency furnace and all I heard was a gurgling sound. Not good. The same thang as last years fiasco. First time it gits cold the dang heater acts up. The draft inducer motor full of water, the furnace all rusted to hell, the electronics all wet. Dayum. So I removed the blower and dryed it out with a hair dryer. Dryed all the electronics and the furnace. I figured Mobile is the wettest city on the planet besides Seattle so I went up on the roof. Found no leaks, Hosed it down with a water hose while I had peeps up in the attic looking for where the water was coming from. Could not find one damn leak. So I got to looking at the ac drain. I poured some water down the drain and BOOM there it was. Stopped up ac drain. To make matters worse the leak was never seen because the water was going through the wood sub-flooring under the furnace. I had to blow out the tube going into the draft inducer and open it up, (full of mud), I had to take a tooth brush and clean the orifice on one of the burners, naturally it was the one with the flame sensor fartherest away from the gas valve. I didn’t have to clean the flame sensor itself which was amazing to me. I also replaced the screws on the blower with new stainless ones. Never know when I might need to remove it again and those rusted ones were hell to get out. So if you hear a gurgle in your heater shut er down and dry er out.
Right now it is about 80 degrees in here(73 outside) Grannys got it hot as 3 yards of you know where. So much for the cold weather. LOL
Electric Furnace Notes
Posted by: | CommentsHow does electric heat work? Having a basic understanding of what is happening greatly increases your ability to diagnose and repair these heaters. All of them basically work the same. Just as an air conditioner A-coil needs a certain amount of freon flowing through it, Air must be traveling over the heating coils at a certain rate or they will simply heat up and disentergrate in a very short time. But if the fan comes on straight away then only cold air will come out of the vent!. So how do they do it? The manufacturer installs a sequencer to bring on the heating coils in stages.
This does 2 things. Pre warms the heater and keeps the breaker from tripping. A heating coil is first brought on to heat up the furnace and then 30 seconds later another one comes on 30 seconds later the fan and another one kicks in. Each coil is approximitly 5000 watts the typical furnace for a 3 bedroom. These coils will break individually and instead of 15000 watts you have 10000 or even 5000. Many times people would bring the heat strip to me with all 3 coils broken. Can you imagine that? The good news is each coil can be restrung
and the heater can be brought back up to normal. When restringing any element you must have the coils evenly spaced and you cannot have any gaps or they become weak spots and burn out. You must take care not to let the coil touch the heater chamber also.
ODS(oxygen depletion system) tips
Posted by: | Comments
ODS (oxygen depletion system) gas safety pilot for space heaters and fireplaces. The most common problem with these is the pilot flame does not keep the safety thermocouple hot enough to hold the safety magnet open,thus shutting down the fire in just a short time.
I use a product called Rustbuster to squirt through the pilot burner into the ODS chamber(small chamber with flap just behind the pilot light) to remove tiny spider webs,dust,etc,that gets tangled up in the burner over the warmer months when the system is not in use.After making sure the ODS pilot chamber is cleared of these obstructions you move the control knob to the PILOT position press down on the knob and let the gas flow out of the pilot,,,snap down the red ignitor rapidly a dozen or more times till that flame light up. Hold down on that control knob till the tip of the safety thermocouple gets hot enough to generate electricity and hold the safety magnet in, allowing the pilot to stay lit. Next move the control knob to ON position. in about 20 seconds the flame should come on.
You will know the heater is working properly if the pilot flame is a long pretty blue color (2 inchs) The beauty of this system is when oxygen content of the home or room gets low, the chamber will lower the pilot flame and the safety will snap closed the main gas and no more fire.
When any dust or cobwebs get into it, it tends to quit after only a short while. That is why I flush the chamber from the pilot end with rust buster. Shop air will work, but rustbuster is best because it has a nice telescoping spout you can use to reach the pilot burner opening.You can get it at any hardware store for a cupla bucks. You never want to re-size the pilot hole to make the flame bigger, OOPS! Doing so will cause you to have to purchase an new ODS pilot burner assembly.
Notice the hole to clean arrows. You can use a straw to blow out the dust or shop air also. When the dust is removed the heater will work properly. I use Rustbuster.It has a telescoping spout and I shoot a little right into the pilot. I flush it out safely without messing with the flap on the pilot safety! Bend that flap out and you have screwed up the pilot big time!
Central Gas Furnace Quickly shuts down
Posted by: | CommentsIt is getting colder now and some folks are turning on their heaters only to get no heat. The problem is the flame sensor most of the time:
They get contaminated and will not sense ignition. If the brain does not get a signal of ignition it will think raw gas is coming out and it will check 3 or 4 more times. Within 20 seconds it will shut down the gas valve. Replace this sensor or clean it real good with emory cloth or a brillo pad. Also take a look at all connections from the burner to the control. A loose or corroded wire will not get a signal back to headquarters that ignition has occurred and the dang thang will shut down.The control might be bad but make damn sure it ain’t something simple before you go blowing money on non refundable parts.LOL!