The oven door of course is located on the front of the range. Most models have a glass window for looking into the range while things are baking. The door can be opened somewhat while you are broiling.
Step 1 Open the oven door all the way.
Step 2 Some models use a screw to hold the door to the channel arm. Remember to unscrew both sides.
Step 3 Place a straight piece of dowel rod (3 inches long by 1/8 inch diameter) in the hole in each channel arm.
NOTE: If this is not done, when the door is pulled off the channel arms, they could snap back and chip the finish.
Step 4 Close the door to the broil stop.
Step 5 Grasp the oven door on the sides and pull off the channel arms.
After passing through the valves, the gas comes to the orifices. The main purpose of the orifice is to control the gas output from the valve body at a set level into the burner and shutter assembly.
The orifice is a precision part and should never be redrilled in the field. Drilling could leave a burr which changes the flow pattern of the gas creating turbulence inside the venturi and reduce the amount of primary air drawn in through the shutter.
Burner B.T.U ratings can be changed by varying the orifice size. Orifices have a number stamped on them. The larger the number, the smaller the hole. On dryers, the orifice should be changed if it is supplied with anything other then natural gas.
Sometimes looks can be deceiving. Take a oven igniter for example. You can often look at a Oven Igniter and see it glow red and thinks the oven igniter is working.
There is a good chance though that if your oven does not work and you can see the igniter come on the igniter is still bad and needs to be replaced.
The way it works is the Oven Igniter has to be able to draw enough amps before the gas safety valve will open. If the oven igniter is week it may still look like it’s working, but it’s not able to draw enough amps to open the gas valve and supply gas to the oven burner.
You can check a oven igniter with a clamp on amp meter to see how many amps it’s drawing. Then look at the side of the gas safety valve. On the side of the Gas Safety Valve it’s labeled with how many amps it takes to open the gas valve. If the igniter is not drawing the amps it takes to open the gas safety valve then the igniter needs to be replaced even though it looks like it’s working.
Here are a couple of videos you may also find helpful.
How to replace a oven igniter
Gas Oven Ignition Trouble Shooting
If you do not have a clamp on amp meter to test the igniter there is a good chance that if you can see the igniter glow red but the oven does not come on the igniter is bad and needs to be replaced. There is always the chance that the gas safety valve could be bad, but most of the time it’s just a bad igniter.
I have replaced very few gas safety valves over the years, but have replace I would guess hundreds of Oven Igniters as it’s a very common problem.
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Testing Range Elements
TESTING THE PLUG-IN SURFACE ELEMENT
1. Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale. 2. With the element removed, touch the meter leads to ends of the prongs.
The meter should indicate the following (approximate ±20%) resistance for the indicated element:
8 ” Element = 18 – 20 Ω
6 ” Element = 30 – 33 Ω
Oven Sensor Temperature Chart
Oven Temperature Sensor
TESTING AN OVEN TEMPERATURE SENSOR
1. Set the ohmmeter to the R x 10 scale.
2. Touch the meter leads to the plug pins (see the illustration).
The meter should indicate approximately 1100 Ω at 75 ˚F. For resistances at other temperatures, refer to the chart below.
NOTE: The readings are approximate.