Archive for Dryer
Here is a perfect example of how using cheap aftermarket parts can end up giving you a lot of trouble.
This is a quote from one of our forum members who was having a hard time figuring out what was wrong with their dryer.
Guess what? after have changed coils 2 times,before make the gas valve change, i made last try but this time I used FSP brand coils and ..BUALA !! it worked. I used the first time coils with no brand and 2 pairs are defective. I don’t know how test the coils , with ohmmeter the 2 feet reads 1200 and the 3 feet 1 to 3 reads 525 , it looks to me there were fine but don’t.
I had a nightmare and thousand of assumptions just because these cheap coils.
Sockpro Sock holders help keep socks together in washer and dryer, no more sorting hassles. Put a stop to missing socks.
When I come across these SockLocks they reminded me of something my mother or grandmother used years ago.
I have been washing my socks for years and matching them up just fine without this age old gadget. Do people still use these today to keep there socks together well they wash and dry them?
Come across this on one of my favorite websites, instructables.com
Not so sure about wool dryer balls reducing drying time by up to 25%, but the rest of it sound good and easy enough to try.
Wool dryer balls are a simple to make, cost effective way to keep clothes soft and wrinkle/static free! They deliver the same benefits for laundry as commercial/conventional dryer sheets WITHOUT all the nasty chemicals. And due to their bounciness, they also work to create more space in between your garments during the drying process, which allows better circulation of the hot dryer air. This reduces drying time by up to 25%!! – resulting in huge time, cost, and energy savings for you!
Q: When we open the door on our Whirlpool WED4800XQ1 dryer it stops running but we can still see the glow and feel the heat from the element because it does not stop heating. What can we do to fix this problem?
A: The heating element is probably shorted out to the case and needs to be replace. I would use a multimeter to check for continuity between the element terminals and the heater case to see if it’s grounded out. If it is grounded out to the case then you will need to replace the heating element.
A less likely case would be a faulty motor switch. In that case you would need to replace the motor.
The radiant heat sensor is mounted on the side of the burner funnel assembly. A cut-out in the funnel allows radiant heat from the ignitor and the gas flame to reach the sensor as shown below.
The ignitor will normally reach a temperature of 2200°F in about 15 to 30 seconds after line voltage is applied. The radiant sensor opens the circuit to the ignitor when this temperature is reached. The gas valve is energized simultaneously, and when gas contacts the hot ignitor, ignition takes place.
Obtain an ohmmeter. We will be doing RESISTANCE checks. This is the safest way because the dryer is unplugged from the power source and avoids the possibility of you receiving an electrical shock.
Step 1 Remove one wire at a time, carefully label- ing each wire according to the terminal marking on the sensor. This procedure should assure that the right wire is reconnected to the right terminal after checking or replacement.
Step 2 Set the ohmmeter scale to the lowest ohms setting and ZERO the meter.
Step 3 Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to one of the terminals on the sensor.
Step 4 Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the other terminal on the sensor.
Step 5 The ohmmeter should show ZERO resis- tance (continuity). If not, the sensor is bad and needs replacing.
Step 6 If this check showed ZERO resistance, then reconnect the wires to the proper terminals on the sensor.
Step 7 Remove the toe panel.
Step 8 Set the timer control and start the dryer.
Step 9 Watch the ignitor for a couple of minutes. If this stays red hot and the gas does not come out and ignite, the sensor is bad and needs replacing.
After passing through the valves, the gas comes to the orifices. The main purpose of the orifice is to control the gas output from the valve body at a set level into the burner and shutter assembly.
The orifice is a precision part and should never be redrilled in the field. Drilling could leave a burr which changes the flow pattern of the gas creating turbulence inside the venturi and reduce the amount of primary air drawn in through the shutter.
Burner B.T.U ratings can be changed by varying the orifice size. Orifices have a number stamped on them. The larger the number, the smaller the hole. On dryers, the orifice should be changed if it is supplied with anything other then natural gas.