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Oct
20

Granny’s Gurgling Furnace

Posted by: JWWebster | Comments (0)

A rare phenom occurred over the weekend here in the swamp. It got cold as hell. I turned on granny’s Amana high efficiency furnace and all I heard was a gurgling sound. Not good. The same thang as last years fiasco. First time it gits cold the dang heater acts up. The draft inducer motor full of water, the furnace all rusted to hell, the electronics all wet. Dayum. So I removed the blower and dryed it out with a hair dryer. Dryed all the electronics and the furnace. I figured Mobile is the wettest city on the planet besides Seattle so I went up on the roof. Found no leaks, Hosed it down with a water hose while I had peeps up in the attic looking for where the water was coming from. Could not find one damn leak. So I got to looking at the ac drain. I poured some water down the drain and BOOM there it was. Stopped up ac drain. To make matters worse the leak was never seen because the water was going through the wood sub-flooring under the furnace. I had to blow out the tube going into the draft inducer and open it up, (full of mud), I had to take a tooth brush and clean the orifice on one of the burners, naturally it was the one with the flame sensor fartherest away from the gas valve. I didn’t have to clean the flame sensor itself which was amazing to me. I also replaced the screws on the blower with new stainless ones. Never know when I might need to remove it again and those rusted ones were hell to get out. So if you hear a gurgle in your heater shut er down and dry er out.
Right now it is about 80 degrees in here(73 outside) Grannys got it hot as 3 yards of you know where. So much for the cold weather. LOL

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Oct
16

Electric Furnace Notes

Posted by: JWWebster | Comments (0)

How does electric heat work? Having a basic understanding of what is happening greatly increases your ability to diagnose and repair these heaters. All of them basically work the same. Just as an air conditioner A-coil needs a certain amount of freon flowing through it, Air must be traveling over the heating coils at a certain rate or they will simply heat up and disentergrate in a very short time. But if the fan comes on straight away then only cold air will come out of the vent!. So how do they do it? The manufacturer installs a sequencer to bring on the heating coils in stages.
sequencer
This does 2 things. Pre warms the heater and keeps the breaker from tripping. A heating coil is first brought on to heat up the furnace and then 30 seconds later another one comes on 30 seconds later the fan and another one kicks in. Each coil is approximitly 5000 watts the typical furnace for a 3 bedroom. These coils will break individually and instead of 15000 watts you have 10000 or even 5000. Many times people would bring the heat strip to me with all 3 coils broken. Can you imagine that? The good news is each coil can be restrung
restring kit
and the heater can be brought back up to normal. When restringing any element you must have the coils evenly spaced and you cannot have any gaps or they become weak spots and burn out. You must take care not to let the coil touch the heater chamber also.

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Oct
16

ODS(oxygen depletion system) tips

Posted by: JWWebster | Comments (0)

ODS.bmp
ODS (oxygen depletion system) gas safety pilot for space heaters and fireplaces. The most common problem with these is the pilot flame does not keep the safety thermocouple hot enough to hold the safety magnet open,thus shutting down the fire in just a short time.
I use a product called Rustbuster to squirt through the pilot burner into the ODS chamber(small chamber with flap just behind the pilot light) to remove tiny spider webs,dust,etc,that gets tangled up in the burner over the warmer months when the system is not in use.After making sure the ODS pilot chamber is cleared of these obstructions you move the control knob to the PILOT position press down on the knob and let the gas flow out of the pilot,,,snap down the red ignitor rapidly a dozen or more times till that flame light up. Hold down on that control knob till the tip of the safety thermocouple gets hot enough to generate electricity and hold the safety magnet in, allowing the pilot to stay lit. Next move the control knob to ON position. in about 20 seconds the flame should come on.
You will know the heater is working properly if the pilot flame is a long pretty blue color (2 inchs) The beauty of this system is when oxygen content of the home or room gets low, the chamber will lower the pilot flame and the safety will snap closed the main gas and no more fire.
When any dust or cobwebs get into it, it tends to quit after only a short while. That is why I flush the chamber from the pilot end with rust buster. Shop air will work, but rustbuster is best because it has a nice telescoping spout you can use to reach the pilot burner opening.You can get it at any hardware store for a cupla bucks. You never want to re-size the pilot hole to make the flame bigger, OOPS! Doing so will cause you to have to purchase an new ODS pilot burner assembly.
Notice the hole to clean arrows. You can use a straw to blow out the dust or shop air also. When the dust is removed the heater will work properly. I use Rustbuster.It has a telescoping spout and I shoot a little right into the pilot. I flush it out safely without messing with the flap on the pilot safety! Bend that flap out and you have screwed up the pilot big time!
rust buster

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It is getting colder now and some folks are turning on their heaters only to get no heat. The problem is the flame sensor most of the time:
sensor1
They get contaminated and will not sense ignition. If the brain does not get a signal of ignition it will think raw gas is coming out and it will check 3 or 4 more times. Within 20 seconds it will shut down the gas valve. Replace this sensor or clean it real good with emory cloth or a brillo pad. Also take a look at all connections from the burner to the control. A loose or corroded wire will not get a signal back to headquarters that ignition has occurred and the dang thang will shut down.The control might be bad but make damn sure it ain’t something simple before you go blowing money on non refundable parts.LOL!

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Oct
13

GRANNY’S NUKE NOTES

Posted by: JWWebster | Comments (0)

Twist the timer knob or push the button and electricity from the wall outlet travels through the power cord and enters the microwave oven through a series of fuse and safety protection circuits. These circuits include various fuses and thermal protectors that are designed to deactivate the oven in the event of an electrical short or if an overheating condition occurs.

Figure 1

Figure 1


Generally, the control system includes either an electromechanical relay or an electronic switch called a triac as shown in Figure 2 . Sensing that all systems are “propah,” the control circuit generates a signal that causes the relay to activate, thereby producing a voltage path to the high-voltage transformer .
Figure 2

Figure 2


In the high-voltage section, ( Figure 3 )
Figure 3

Figure 3


the high-voltage transformer along with a special diode and capacitor arrangement serve to increase the typical household voltage, of about 115 volts, to the shockingly high amount of approximately 3000 volts! The microwave energy is transmitted into a metal channel called a waveguide , which feeds the energy into the cooking area where it encounters the slowly revolving metal blades of the stirrer blade . Some models use a type of rotating antenna while others rotate the food through the waves of energy on a revolving carousel. In any case, the effect is to evenly disperse the microwave energy throughout all areas of the cooking compartment. Some waves go directly toward the food, others bounce off the metal walls and flooring; and, thanks to special metal screen, microwaves also reflect off the door.
So, the microwave energy reaches all surfaces of the food from every direction.
All microwave energy remains fer the most part inside the box but if grandpa wanders too dang near it his Dewey,Cheatum,and How pacemaker could take a dump. So gramps back slowly off from the machine pwease! Go get ya another bag of pork skins my nizzle.
When the door is opened, or the timer reaches zero, the microwave energy stops–just as turning off a light switch stops the glow of the lightbulb.

So, when all systems are Go, with the door is closed, an electrical path is established through a series of safety interlock switches and extends voltage onward towards the thrusters of this bad boy.

Figure 2a

Figure 2a


Figure 2b

Figure 2b


The transformer secondary (output) voltage swings into the negative half-cycle and increases in a negative direction to a negative 2800 volts, with polarities as shown. The transformer secondary and the charged capacitor are now essentially two energy sources in series. The 2800 volts across the transformer winding adds to the 2800 volts stored in the capacitor and the sum voltage of 5600 volts is applied to the magnetron cathode. There are two fundamental characteristics of this 5600-volt output that should be noted:
First, because a voltage doubler is also a rectifier, the output is a DC voltage.
Second, the resulting output voltage that is applied to the magnetron tube is actually a pulsed DC voltage.
This is because the doubler generates an output only during the negative half-cycle of the transformer’s output (secondary) voltage. So, the magnetron tube is, in fact, pulsed on and off at a rate of 60 times per second here in the good old U S of A. (50 in pwaces with 50hz freq ah imagine) So the basic effect of all those molecules a rubbing together produces friction, and friction produces heat. Speaking of which: Hay grandma wheres the popcorn? The movie is about to start. It is a new one: SublimeMasters revenge of the evil Fixya empire. It oughta be a good un~ :D

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Oct
13

cheap video camera

Posted by: JWWebster | Comments (0)

Yall I gotta get one of them cheap video cameras. I want to document some of these repairs for posterity don’t ya know. Today my friend Robert came down to shop with an ailing GE dryer. I had planned on posting a few pictures that I stole from the web but I ain’t figgered out how yet. Hay I said I could mess with appliances not be a dang puter wiz. Never could get nothing out of the little front loader(mah2400aww) Robert found on a trashpile, but it looked good enough to get $10 from Able, so I advised him to take that thang over there. (Able has an appliance boneyard and used appliance showroom not far from here.)
I wonder how them fellers get them movies on youtube? Talk about some rednecks having fun. I saw one titled redneck camping and another one titled How we do it redneck style. LOL!

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About 25 years ago not long after the wife and I moved into our  old house, she discovered the electric oven was broken, and it  was also real filthy. Her being the dainty little lady, she  thought for some reason it was the man’s job to clean up the  oven. I was watching a good Saint’s game and popping a few tops. I reluctantly replaced the oven bake element and after a few more beers,I tested it. I turned on the oven and waited for the element to light up  turn red or something. It didnt look like it was working so I  touched it with my finger. Please dont try to do this! The pain is real bad >the scar  eventually went away! It gets better! I waited till the thang cooled down drank another beer and then she says why didnt you clean it? well I got out the rubber gloves sprayed on the easy off and commenced to cuss and clean the oven ,and then it hit me! There I was with two rubber nasty, easy off laden greasy gloves on, and I had to pee real bad!!  What was I to do? I wasnt halfway finished doing the job and  nature was calling. So I said to the wife Honey, I need yore  help. We went into the bathroom and I said dear I gotta pee bad  and you gotta assist! she was giggling when I calmly told her  she must aim it ! When I got through I told her now you gotta  shake it. Not too much though! lol! The stove looked good as  new and my wife of 3 days had a story of a lifetime.

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