Archive for November, 2009
Wolf oven will NOT heat
Posted by: | CommentsWolf R364G Gas Range would not light. With a turn of the knob the indicator bake light comes on but nothing else happens NO heat .. The customer needed her oven to bake a large Thanksgiving turkey . Time to call for service.

With a non-contact voltage detector I check for voltage to the igniter. The blinking light indicates that I have voltage to the igniter. With no glow at all, It was time to replace the Bake Igniter PN# 813541. Turned the knob to off and switched the breaker to the off position to cut the power to the range. I removed two screws that hold on the burner plate. Also removed two screws that hold the gas orifice. Then removed two more screws hold the burner in place removed them. slid the burner over to the left to get access to the two screws that hold the igniter to the burner. Removed the two screws and the igniter. Installed the new Bake igniter PN# 813541 then replaced the burner, gas orifice and burner plate screwed them all back together. With a 16 gauge insulated crimp-on butt connector I stripped and crimped one of the igniter wire. The other wire was replace off of the gas valve .

(Tools Used)
#2 Philips screwdriver
Non-contact voltage detector
Wire cutter and crimping tool
(Time)
20 Minutes
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Frigidaire side by side making Too much ICE
Posted by: | CommentsThis Brand New Frigidaire refrigerator model number FPHS2699KF as making more ice then this couple can use to cool there drinks. Ice was overflowing the Ice Bucket and falling down to the bottom of the freezer. So it was time to call for service.

This is a common problem with Frigidaire’s side by side refrigerator Ice maker when the ice dispenser is not used very much the bail arm of a ice maker raises then drops. when the ice blocks the arm from returning to the resting position. It keeps the water valve from opening stopping Ice production.
The problem with this Ice maker is that when the bail arm drops it pushes the ice out of the way. Letting the bail arm return to the resting position and NOT stopping the production of ice. When the bail arm pushes the Ice out of the way it over fills the bucket and ice drops all over the freezer.

The fix is a bail arm extension PN# 218513800 This part is an add on that slides over the bail arm and clips to one side of the bail arm. This will keep the bail arm from pushing the ice. It will also lower the level of ice in the ice bucket keep all the ice in the bucket.

(Parts) bail arm extension PN# 218513800
(Tools) None
(Time Used) 10 minutes
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Dacor Cooktop burner will not light
Posted by: | CommentsDacor cooktop PGM365SLP left front dual D Burner will not light.This is the most used burner
so time to call for service.

Dacor cooktop left front burner igniter would click but no gas was making it to the burner and no flame to heat the water for spaghetti.
Removed all the grilles, burner caps and burners. Then unscrewed 15 torx screws on each burner bases and remove all 5 knobs by pull them up. Removed each burner base and unplugged all 5 igniter wires.
Now the drip pan can be lifted off.
Each gas valve is connected to a flexible aluminum gas hose. Each gas hose has a brass orifice or jet that control how much gas it feed to each burner. After the orifice is a venturi which Gas is introduced into the air stream through small orifice at the narrowest part of the venturi. Fuel flows in response to a particular pressure drop in the venturi is adjusted by means of precisely-calibrated orifices or jets, in the fuel path with the gas. then there is the main tube that is slid into the gas burner. This main tube had fell out of the burner base. Gas was fill under the cooktop not going to the burner. I replaced the tube, slid it into the burner base bend the inlet tube a little to keep the tube in place. Put it all back together making sure each igniter wire when back to the correct burner..
Turned the knob and poof the burner was working again.

(Parts used) None
(Tools) 15 torx
(Time) 30 Minutes
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KitchenAid Dishwasher with Three Blinking Lights
Posted by: | CommentsKitchenAid model # KUDPO1ILBS2 would only blink lights and NOT wash the dishes.
So It was time to call for service.

Blinking lights (Normal)-(Sani/Rinse)- (Cancel) but would not go anything else. Removed all six of the 15 torx that hold the control panel on and the two more screws that hold the door latch. unplugged and plug in the control panel three time and the dishwasher when into test mode. It was time for a New control panel as the keypad had failed.
If the dishwasher would not go into test mode. Then you will need a control.
Removed the control by pressing two clips on the left of the control. Popping the control up then pulling it to the left emoved it from the panel. Unplugged the key pad ribbon connector from the control. Then unscrewed the door latch slid it into the New control panel. Snapped the control into the new panel and plugged in the ribbon connector. slid the panel back into the door and replaced all 6 screws and 2 screws for the door latch.
Turned on the power and it was washing dishes again.
(Parts)
8564542 control
8531242 control panel w/key pad black
(tools)
15 torx
Philips screwdriver
(time)
15 mins
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Dacor ER48DSH/NG indicator light Not working
Posted by: | CommentsThis new Dacor ER30DSH/NG Gas range has the signature Dacor blue indicator lights which illuminates each knob when the surface burner is turned on. The indicator light is very important on a gas range to show the user that a burner is on especially when the burn is on a Low simmer when a flame is nearly invisible. Time to call for service.

New LED with larger black varistor
The indicator lights are low voltage LED controlled by cherry micro switches on each gas valve. As the knob is turned a cam on the gas valve triggers the switchs allowing voltage to the LED. With these LEDs a small voltage change results in a large change in current. It is therefore important that the power source gives the right voltage. If the voltage is too high the current will go above the maximum rating, heating and potentially destroying the LED. As the LED heats, its voltage drop decreases further increasing current. LEDs should only be connected directly to constant-voltage sources. A varistor are a simple way to stabilize the LED current. A varistor is a non-ohmic variable resistors. known as a metal oxide varistor, or MOV. This contains a zinc oxide grains, in a matrix of other metal oxides, between two metal plates. The boundary between each grain forms a diode junction, which allows current to flow in only one direction. The mass of oriented grains is electrically equivalent to a network of back-to-back diode pairs, each pair in parallel with many other pairs. When a small or moderate voltage is applied across the electrodes nonlinear current-voltage in which the MOV has a high resistance at low voltages and a low resistance at high voltages stabilizing the voltage and absorbing small voltage surge. Working like a mini capacitor . Varistors do not absorb a significant percentage of a lightning strike, but they can stabilize low voltage.

Cherry micro switches and cams on gas valves
Dacor has revise the varistors on there LED three times each time adding a larger capacity varistors to protect the LED. Dacor tech line also recommended that we replace all LED when one is burn out. Remove the four drip pan trim.then the two center porcelain covers slid forward lift up at the rear then side back to remove. remove the burner and two crown burner there is a tool under the right side toe panel. Lift up the three drip pans and four screws remove the front brace. This gives you access to all 6 pn# 100121 LED lights they just unplug. reverse the steps and tested each indicator lights.

Dacor crown burner with drip pans removed
(Parts used)
6 each pn#100121 LED lights
(Time )
45 min
(Tools)
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
Crown burner tool (under toe panel)
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Sub-Zero 642 flash “service” and “EC”
Posted by: | CommentsThe fresh food compartment set at 38 but will not go below 50 degrees the milk was going sour .
It was time to call for service…

Blinking “service” light and “EC” is a error code on Sub-Zeros. When a unit did not cycle defrost off 6 consecutive times in a roll. this a a common problem then a condenser is plugged with dust bunnies or a bad fan motor and the unit can not exchange heat . If the refrigerator can not remove the heat it can not keep the refrigerator cool and will keep running.
Remove three screws from inside the door. Take off the top grille held on by two springs. Two screws removes the compressor baffle. Make sure the condenser fan is turning when the compressor is running, If not it can often be started by a quick push in the correct direction. Take a look at the fan blade shape, it pulls air into the machine compartment. If the fan was turning but no air was flowing, the condenser needs to be cleaned. Make sure the unit is off when vacuuming condenser . Use a soft brush tool on the end of the vacuum and vacuum it top to bottom. do not move it side to side as you do not want to bend over the condenser fins.
After checking the condenser on this refrigerator this was not the case as it was clear and clean..

Sample of a evaporator ‘ Pop”
Next I check the back wall in the fresh food compartment. I noticed a ice build up on the left. A sure sign of a low gas situation. removed the light cover and the three screws at the top of the evaporator cover pull it forward and removed it. a large ice ball at where the cap tube enters the evaporator more evidence of a low gas problem. If there is low gas then there must be a leak as the system is hermetic sealed. Leak are found at the joints or in the evaporator. Sub-Zero evaporator made from copper and aluminum two medals that should not be touch each others as they cause a chemical reaction aluminum gives electrons to the copper ions. This causes the copper ions to turn into copper metal At the same time aluminum metal turns into aluminum ions. Al metal + Cu+2 ions —> Al +3 ions + Cu metal The solution ions become a metal (Cu). The new aluminum ions have different properties than the aluminum metal. The aluminum ions are not in a solid form which weakens the wall of the evaporator. Sub-Zero uses many different coatings to separate the two metals But this evaporator failure is common.

Oil residue in the drain trough below the evaporator is the nail in coffin. We need a evaporator.
A sealed system problem must be dealt with by an authorized technician or a lease a EPA certified technician , This repair is covered by Sub-Zero warranty.
Full Five Year Sealed System Warranty
For five years from the date of original installation, your Sub-Zero warranty covers all parts and labor to repair or replace any components that prove to be defective in materials or workmanship in the sealed system. The sealed system consists of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier and all connecting tubing.
Limited 6th Through 12th Year Warranty
From the 6th through the 12th year from the date of original installation, your Sub-Zero warranty covers all parts that prove to be defective in materials or workmanship in the sealed system (parts only). The sealed system consists of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier and all connecting tubing.
PN# 7009366 evaporator
PN# 7006964 Dryer
Replaced the evaporator and drier . recharged the system with 134A only 5.5 oz….and this Sub-Zero was back to keeping the beer cold and no more stinky milk.
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Thermador Range burner Not Working
Posted by: | CommentsThermador Model #PRDS364 A high end gas range began having a problem when the front left burners would not ignite. The front burner are the most used and with a family of eight. It was time to call for service.

When the knob is turned to the ON position the spark module begins the ignition process by a spark, A click can be heard but No flames and No Gas could be heard at all. This is the the only burner that would not work all others work great.
The surface burners on this range use valves connected to a manifold to control gas flow to each burner. A micro switch connected to the spark module for ignition, All four igniter spark when any one of the four mirco switches are turned on. Only the one with gas supplied will ignite.
The gas will flows into the burner assembly where it will ignite with assistance for a spark from the igniter electrode. when the valve increases the gas flow and the burner flame will increase, while turning it down will lower the flame.
This range has two burner that have a simmer mode. These burners have the ability to go from a 18,000 btu/h output to 375 btu/h, a very low flame for melting chocolate or cheese. This low flame is achieved by a secondary solenoid valve. Low simmer it is not controlled by the main gas valve. but from a potentiometer and simmer control board to keep this low flame glowing.
When the knob is turned on, The simmer control sends electricity to a solenoid valve to open the main valve will turn on.When the knob is turned to simmer the simmer control shut off the main valve and the low output valve will turn on. The output will vary depending on the position of the shaft as it rotates the potentiometer. The potentiometer changing resistance is used by the simmer board to maintain the gas flow from the secondary valve.
With only burner were not working I first checked the solenoid valve for community. As solenoid valves are a common point of failure. both solenoid valves had community. Now it was time to check voltage. there valves use need 110 VDC to open. With only 60VDC I suspect the it was the Simmer control pn#497235 the simmer control comes in a kit with two potentiometers as they should be changed as a set.
I replaced the two potentiometers and simmer control that is located behind the spark module under the top to the far right in the back. With the parts replace all burners where working great. Now she can boil large pan of water for spaghetti and melt chocolate for s’mores.
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